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Would you mind listing all the parts and part numbers you had to source for this project? I have to deal with the exact same problem on my 2011. Reading your post with your progress has given me hope that I might be able to do it myself... thanks for that.
 

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no need for vacuum on cooling system on these 5.7
system bleeds itself easily.fill up while running till radiator is full,run a few minutes until thermostat opens,top up and put cap on. add to expansion tank and you're done.
 

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No bleed screw.
I would just advise to pour coolant in slowly and not dump it into the funnel too quick so as not to create an air lock.
I personally fill with engine off until full, then run at around 2-3000 rpm for a few minutes with the heater and a/c on full hot while topping up until bubbles stop.
You will know it is bled out when the heater blows hot air on hot setting with a/c on at idle.
 

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Sorry for the late reply. I'm still not getting notifications of replies when its set up for instant email on replies.

So today I finally got everything wrapped up. On the initial start up I got a rattling noise. I turned off the engine, restarted it and it was gone. I think the new tensioner had to set itself. After that I haven't had any rattling. So far so good.


Would you mind listing all the parts and part numbers you had to source for this project? I have to deal with the exact same problem on my 2011. Reading your post with your progress has given me hope that I might be able to do it myself... thanks for that.
I posted a few pics of all the parts but I'll be making the parts list here pretty soon. If you can give yourself 3 days you wont have to rush yourself. Its a pretty big job if you haven't done it before. This was my first time and proved to be difficult. I have another car so I took my time.
ViktorG helped out immensely providing parts and procedures. Thank you again! And thank you to everyone that helped.

no need for vacuum on cooling system on these 5.7
system bleeds itself easily.fill up while running till radiator is full,run a few minutes until thermostat opens,top up and put cap on. add to expansion tank and you're done.
Thank you.

No bleed screw.
I would just advise to pour coolant in slowly and not dump it into the funnel too quick so as not to create an air lock.
I personally fill with engine off until full, then run at around 2-3000 rpm for a few minutes with the heater and a/c on full hot while topping up until bubbles stop.
You will know it is bled out when the heater blows hot air on hot setting with a/c on at idle.
Thank you.
 

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So today I finally got everything wrapped up. On the initial start up I got a rattling noise. I turned off the engine, restarted it and it was gone. I think the new tensioner had to set itself. After that I haven't had any rattling. So far so good.
The rattling noise for a few seconds on initial start after a repair of that magnitude up is normal, just building up oil pressure to all the parts.

ViktorG helped out immensely providing parts and procedures. Thank you again! And thank you to everyone that helped.
Happy to help. Glad you got her fixed! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The rattling noise for a few seconds on initial start after a repair of that magnitude up is normal, just building up oil pressure to all the parts.



Happy to help. Glad you got her fixed! :)
Thank you, me also!

Congrats ! THATS quite a job and commitment !
Thank you!

Would you mind listing all the parts and part numbers you had to source for this project? I have to deal with the exact same problem on my 2011. Reading your post with your progress has given me hope that I might be able to do it myself... thanks for that.
I added the part #'s on the original post.

I have the torque specs and there's a procedure in doing them. I'm not sure how I would share the info without infringing on copyrights.
 

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Hey folks - new here and appreciate the wealth of info. This thread in particular has been a huge help as my 2011 just started experiencing this issues (174K).
I have confirmed all parts needed for the job except Engine Valve Cover gasket 90430-A0001 (the very last picture which was added). Where do these belong? The parts site I am looking at says they don't fit the Tundra.
 

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Since you are a tech, I’ll just give you basic instructions.
Remove radiator, valve covers, unbolt all accessories off the front, remove timing cover.
There are 4 tensioners there, the one that I’ve always seen fail is the primary chain tensioner on the driver side.
You can confirm that is the one by removing the oil filler tube and looking inside to see if the plunger on the tensioner is flopping back and forth.
You can just replace the failed tensioner, nothing else really goes wrong with that system otherwise as far as guides etc.
If you are concerned, replace whatever parts you desire.
The chain does not need to come off, so no worries about timing it.
There is no kit for that job, just all the gaskets for whatever you take off.
It’s around a 2 day job, and not easy on your back, but it’s doable.
Hey man I’m doing this same job on my garage for a friend. great info! I’m also a tech and have done many timing chains on many different vehicles but this is my first 3urfe. Seems pretty cut and dry, however just wondering if I’m gonna have to re-set the timing due to the correlation codes that were set from when this noise/tensioner failure issue occurred? It has set codes and is making an intermittent rattling sound from behind the timing cover near the drivers side valve cover area.
 

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I’ve never seen it set correlation codes from the tensioner failing. It is very improbable for the chain to jump a tooth on this engine, but I guess anything is possible.
I’ve seen a stretched chain set correlation codes before. I would definitely check the timing on it before reassembly and see if the chain is stretched. What is the mileage and service history in the truck?
 

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Hello gents, I just joined after being a lurker and extremely grateful for the knowledge you post here.

I'm in the middle of this job on my '08 with 300k pretty much problem free miles. I love my truck so much I decided to rebuild it and add a bunch of mods to it. Doing this repair with one arm is a PITA, for real. Anyhow, the inside of the valve covers looks...burnt. Maybe it's normal, especially for the mileage but wanted to ask. I've always changed the oil (synthetic) in a timely fashion and no engine issues besides the rattling that prompted me to do the chain change.

Thanks for y'alls time. IMG-3865.jpg IMG-3866.jpg
 

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I need to do this repair as well. Thanks so much for the writeup! Mines been making this noise for 50k miles and seems to be lasting longer before the intervals of quiet before making the noise again so I'm thinking i may be running out of time...
 

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Hello gents, I just joined after being a lurker and extremely grateful for the knowledge you post here.

I'm in the middle of this job on my '08 with 300k pretty much problem free miles. I love my truck so much I decided to rebuild it and add a bunch of mods to it. Doing this repair with one arm is a PITA, for real. Anyhow, the inside of the valve covers looks...burnt. Maybe it's normal, especially for the mileage but wanted to ask. I've always changed the oil (synthetic) in a timely fashion and no engine issues besides the rattling that prompted me to do the chain change.

Thanks for y'alls time.
I’ve not had a vehicle with that many miles apart before, but it does look quite gunky for having regular maintenance at proper intervals (every 8k miles I’m assuming?)
Clean everything real well in a parts washer and you should be ok.
 

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Viktor G..thank you. I'd say every 10k, pushed it a bit with Amsoil extended life oil sometimes, but may have gone over. I saw what I presume is your videos of a 5.7 build with forged parts and installation in a RCSB Tundra. That's a lot of work!

My driverside main tensioner was bad...lots of slop. So I bought all new chains, tensioners, etc. for this job and realized I should really do the cam tower "reseal" job while I'm this far in. I've had seepage for a long time but now, from the forums, understand the culprit. Since everything cam/tower and timing chain related is coming out at some point to do these two jobs, does anyone have experience with anything that should be secured before removing parts? Or do I just pay (extra close) attention to the cam/controller and crankshaft orientations during reassembly?
I've got ALDDATADIY and this video helps:
 

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I’ve been following this thread and wanted to share a recent experience with the cyclical chain noise from my drivers side head. I have just over 201k miles now.

It’s been making this rattling sound for the last 50k miles. Before my most recent oil change I dumpers half a bottle of seafoam into the crankcase. I drove for 200 miles with it in there. Turned the oil black. Changed the oil and now I have no signs or symptoms of the noise during warmup. It’s completely gone. It’s
Done this every cold start since I bought the truck.

I believe the seafoam cleaned out the tensioner passages of all the oil buildup that was causing the tensioner to behave badly.

Just wanted to share
 

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ViktorG, I live in Calgary and I am hoping I can get some advice on where to take my 2011 Sequoia to have the timing chain, tensioners, etc. redone... I am not a mechanic so I need a reputable shop that knows the engine and will use Toyota parts. I was quoted $ 2800 + GST at Southpointe... If you think that is reasonable I'll have the work done at the dealership but any recommendations would be appreciated.
 

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ViktorG, I live in Calgary and I am hoping I can get some advice on where to take my 2011 Sequoia to have the timing chain, tensioners, etc. redone... I am not a mechanic so I need a reputable shop that knows the engine and will use Toyota parts. I was quoted $ 2800 + GST at Southpointe... If you think that is reasonable I'll have the work done at the dealership but any recommendations would be appreciated.
$2800 may be very reasonable, depending on what parts they are replacing. Does that include all 4 chains and all 4 tensioners and guides or just the single failed tensioner and no chains/guides?
 

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I’ve been following this thread and wanted to share a recent experience with the cyclical chain noise from my drivers side head. I have just over 201k miles now.

It’s been making this rattling sound for the last 50k miles. Before my most recent oil change I dumpers half a bottle of seafoam into the crankcase. I drove for 200 miles with it in there. Turned the oil black. Changed the oil and now I have no signs or symptoms of the noise during warmup. It’s completely gone. It’s
Done this every cold start since I bought the truck.

I believe the seafoam cleaned out the tensioner passages of all the oil buildup that was causing the tensioner to behave badly.

Just wanted to share
Doing an oil change often makes the rattle go away for a few days. I am pretty sure the noise will be back soon.
 
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Viktor G..thank you. I'd say every 10k, pushed it a bit with Amsoil extended life oil sometimes, but may have gone over. I saw what I presume is your videos of a 5.7 build with forged parts and installation in a RCSB Tundra. That's a lot of work!

My driverside main tensioner was bad...lots of slop. So I bought all new chains, tensioners, etc. for this job and realized I should really do the cam tower "reseal" job while I'm this far in. I've had seepage for a long time but now, from the forums, understand the culprit. Since everything cam/tower and timing chain related is coming out at some point to do these two jobs, does anyone have experience with anything that should be secured before removing parts? Or do I just pay (extra close) attention to the cam/controller and crankshaft orientations during reassembly?
I've got ALDDATADIY and this video helps:
10K+ miles is a lot on a truck that needs oil changes every 5K miles (that is what I meant to say in my previous post, I put 8K miles accidentally since that is the interval in kilometers - I'm in Canada).
The timing is a bit tricky but with Alldata and Youtube you'll figure it out.
 

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$2800 may be very reasonable, depending on what parts they are replacing. Does that include all 4 chains and all 4 tensioners and guides or just the single failed tensioner and no chains/guides?
My understanding is that it is for all the chains and tensioners but I will clarify that with them... It would seem having the work done at Toyota would make the most sense, the reason I asked about other reputable shops in Calgary is the shop rates tend to be higher at the dealerships. The dealership hasn't actually told me that the work needs to be done but when the truck is cold at startup I get varying levels of rhythmic tapping, quieter then louder then nothing then the cycle repeats and at times it sounds like loose change in the clothes dryer. Having researched the noises it led me to the conclusion that it was the tensioners/chains... The truck has 202K on it at this point. I noticed in this post that you suggested other parts should be changed that could take advantage of the fact the the front end had been taken apart... Can you let me know what I should ask Toyota to do in addition to the chains since they are in there anyway?

Thanks! Steve
 
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