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Discussion Starter #21
BRX, could you please provide a part number for the low temp thermostat, I've been looking around and can't find one. Thanks!



Are you still using the Killer Chiller with your new air to water intercooler?
A friend has them and he doesn't disclose where he gets them but I can get him to ship one to you. Send me a PM and we can work something out.

And yes, killer chiller is still hooked up to my water to air intercooler. With the AC on, coolant temps rise about 5 degC but air intake temps drop 25-30 degC.

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A friend has them and he doesn't disclose where he gets them but I can get him to ship one to you. Send me a PM and we can work something out.
PM sent.
 

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What Oil brand and weight are you using? (My single Turbo heats up the Mobil1 0w-40 that I'm using and at 2K it's pretty black already so I been changing it between 2-3K intervals..)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
What Oil brand and weight are you using? (My single Turbo heats up the Mobil1 0w-40 that I'm using and at 2K it's pretty black already so I been changing it between 2-3K intervals..)
Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

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1 bad toy

Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

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looks great !! when running the different size tires do you have any issues with the truck shutting down ? and what is your truck running trans temp ? this NOS set up Dynosty did for me is really Cool .. and one last thing can i get one of those stats to lower my cooling temps as well ?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
looks great !! when running the different size tires do you have any issues with the truck shutting down ? and what is your truck running trans temp ? this NOS set up Dynosty did for me is really Cool .. and one last thing can i get one of those stats to lower my cooling temps as well ?
No issue with running different size tires at all.

Trans temp is between 185-230 depending how hard I drive it and the ambient temperature.

PM for the thermostat with your address and everything and I can get one shipped out for you.

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No issue with running different size tires at all.

Trans temp is between 185-230 depending how hard I drive it and the ambient temperature.

PM for the thermostat with your address and everything and I can get one shipped out for you.

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just sent PM thanks
 

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Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
How is your truck doing? Hope it works fine with you.

isn't 20W50 a less viscous than 10W30 or 0w40?

I am still trying to figure out what is the best oil weight for tundras with forced induction engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
How is your truck doing? Hope it works fine with you.

isn't 20W50 a less viscous than 10W30 or 0w40?

I am still trying to figure out what is the best oil weight for tundras with forced induction engines.
Truck is doing fine. Almost 20,000 km (12,000 miles) on the odometer. I think I have done 5 oil changes so far, I lost count really lol. I try to do it every 3-4k or so.

I'm actually gonna switch to Mutol 10w60. Since it's easier to find here and saves me the shipping fee. The first number is the viscosity at low temps in winter when you first start the engine and the second one is at operation temp.

With it being a "race" engine with very loose tolerance that sees a lot of temps and the weather here would still be in the 90s even in winter, the higher the viscosity the better.

Toyota recommends 0w20 because it's easier to reach the top of the valvetrain even in cold conditions and provides better fuel economy. As long as there aren't loud ticking noises coming from the valvetrain you should be good.

Choose an oil viscosity depending on how much you push your engine and how cold it gets in the winter. If it gets to freezing temps I recommend getting something that starts with a 0w. If your live somewhere warm get a 5w or even a 10w. The second number I would go higher the more you beat on your truck and less valvetrain noise and lower for better fuel economy but not lower than 20. Some 0w20 like the one from mobil1 make the engine really noisy.

This is a good video showing oil viscosities at a very cold temp, probably below freezing

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I'm still not done with this thing, not until it runs 9s.
Hey BRX, have you been back to the track again with this monster?
Also, do you run a transbrake or line lock of some sort or do you just brake hold it when launching?
 

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I thought ARP didn't make 3UR-FE head studs???

Nothing on ARP website.
They do not make them as in they don't have a part number for them.
However, ARP will custom make you a stud for any engine if you are prepared to pay the $$.
 
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