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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This thread has been a long time coming and finally with some results to show I decided it's time.

Going all the way back to 2014, my truck was supercharged at 10 psi on stock internals. I think all the stuff it had are still in my signature lol. Anyway at almost exactly 100,000 miles I blew a head gasket and it was time to rebuild. Initially it was going to be a simple piston/rod upgrade with Darton wet sleeves and a bit more boost with the TRD Supercharger.

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Some of you might remember the mishap between me and Spoolin, if not this thread explains it all and I won't bother going into details here.

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/off-topic-discussion/518626-do-not-do-business-chris-walton.html

Following this incident the truck was in a rough shape and I took it to Dynosty in Louisville, KY to start over the build.

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Initially I was going the same route but without the Darton sleeves as they weren't really meant for a daily driver. However this soon changed to a 1000HP Twin Turbo build. While waiting for the parts to arrive, the engine was torn apart and the heads were ported and polished.

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CP Pistons (8.5:1) and Carrillo H-beam connecting rods custom ordered for the build.

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I also got ARP main and head studs along with WPC coated rod bearings and ACL Main bearings. We kept the crankshaft and camshafts stock. Once all the internal parts got here they went to the machine shop to get assembled. Bore was machined 0.015" to keep as much meat on the sleeves as possible.

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A friend with a turbo tundra had a bad experience boosting with the stock intake manifold beyond 7-8 psi. The small vacuum operated valves/flaps inside the intake manifold would start to vibrate and restrict airflow. With that I decided to get my own intake manifold to handle the +20 psi I needed to reach my goal.

I reached out to Shawn from Rogue Offroad who got his friend at Sleeper Designs to Machine this beautiful peace of billet art with a bolt pattern to fit a 90mm RCF Throttle body.

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Valve covers were color matched to the intake manifold and the timing chain cover was powder coated in black.

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With the engine all ready it was dropped in and matted to the IPT built transmission.

There was another twin turbo tundra build going on at Dynosty at the time however the engine was built by spoolin and it was not healthy. Eventually I bought the turbo kit along with many needed parts of that build to save time.

The turbos were Precision 6262s, V bands in & out with .82 A/R, E cover 3" inlet, 2" outlet. Dual 46mm Precision wastegates, Ceramic coated piping and turbine housing, Exapump oil pump, and a Treadstone 1300HP Air-to-Air Intercooler.

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Moving on to the drivetrain, the Driveshaft Shop was able to provide a Carbon Fiber driveshaft to handle all that torque coupled with an ARB airlocker.

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As for the fuel system, pump gas wasn't going to cut it so E85 was the way to go to be able to make 4 digits reliably. A dual in tank Walbro 485 should be sufficient to provide pressure to all 8 1300cc Injector Dynamics ID1300X injectors through a Fuel Lab Regulator. A flex fuel sensor was installed in the return line since the truck will mostly run on Pump gas.

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For Cooling, I kept both 16" spal fans I had from before but upgraded to a Koyo Aluminum Radiator. A sandwich plate was fabricated on the oil filter housing and was hooked up to a huge Setrab Oil cooler. The transmission coolant lines were deleted and replaced with another Setrab Transmission cooler that directly cools the ATF.

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Since this was going to be mainly drag raced, I upgraded my Haltech Elite 2500 to a 2500T. This upgrade will allow me to add more inputs like a driveshaft speed sensor and be able to manage traction along with the feature of creating a log automatically whenever launch control is activated.

I also contacted Wholesale Transmissions in Australia and they were able to provide a solution to controlling the transmission using HGM's Compushift TCM. This allowed us full control of the transmission.

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The only thing left to be done to the truck was a set of gauges to monitor everything. However I went a different route this time and got a Racepak IQ3 street dash. This will keep all my parameters in one place and lets me see exactly what my ECU sees. No more Christmas tree lights from the stock dash. It also has all the functionality to be usable on the street like turn signals, fuel level and even a parking brake light.

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The truck was all set and ready to hit the dyno. Ramping up the boost truck made over 560WHP on its first power pull at less than 10 psi. Wastegate spring was immediately swapped to a 14 psi spring. Thanks to the high flow intake manifold, the truck just kept asking for more. 1045WHP / 892WTQ @ 25 PSI on E85. Dyno video below of the full power pull.


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It still had more in it but we didn't want to find out its breaking point especially since we made more power than we were going for :)

Truck was then shipped and loaded into a container.

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About 2 months later the truck made it to Dubai.

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The plastidip did NOT age well lol. It was time I brought the truck back to its glory. A full paint job, new 2018 Sequoia headlights, 20" Enkei Wheels and some minor interior clean up and it's as good as new!

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Before heading out to the track I went and installed my fiber leaf springs and got the custom made Holeshot wheels to fit. The front's required a 1.5" spacer and the rear a ton of caliper grinding even though it was already to fit the Procomp wheels I had before. I also installed my red powder coated Sequoia sway bar I had sitting in the garage for the past 3 years.

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It was now time to head to the track. I got myself 55 gallons of E85 and went to the next track day. M&H 28x4.5R17 in the front, M&H Cheater Slicks 30x14R16 in the back.

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First track day did not go so well. I did not fill my tank properly with E85 and only had about 55% of Ethanol. This only allowed me to go up to 19 psi. We also had a heat soak issue as the air intake temps would reach over 250 DegF. Boost lag was also an issue as I was not able to launch it properly and my best 60' was a 1.9. Supercharged I was able to pull a 1.7 consistently and a 1.6 a few times. I was only able to beat my previous record by 0.01 seconds which was very frustrating to say the least.

Next day I took my truck to my friends shop. We added a water to air intercooler system for the track and a dry Nitrous setup for launch.

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I had sometime before the next track day so I took my truck to a custom show.

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Next track day was better but we had some issues. The Water to Air setup improved intake air temps by over a 100 DegF! Along with proper ethanol mixture I was able to make an 11.0 pass at 20 psi. Unfortunately the next pass I up shifted twice and went into 5th gear and friction welded the clutches. It was definitely a 10 second pass but I had to try another time.

Shifting into 5th gear is a design flaw with these transmissions. It even has its own TSB and Toyota released an ECU reflash to fix it by adding more line pressure when shifting into 5th. This was also implemented in my truck however it wasn't enough with the power I'm making. We took the transmission apart and just replaced the damaged plates.

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As soon as the truck was put together, it was time to hit the track again. This time with nitrous. First pass with the same tune from the last track day It ran a 10.7 @ 130 MPH. The pass after that I ran my personal best at 10.52 @ 132 MPH. I was able to make two more passes with more power however each of them had an issue. One bogged down because the flex fuel sensor had low reading of ethanol but still managed a 10.54. So we lowered the frequency at which it reads the sensor. However the next pass we also added more power but we didn't adjust the shift points which made it hit the rev limiter every shift and in 4th gear boost dropped 10 psi for some reason for 2 seconds and went back up again. Looking at the logs the ECU lowered the target boost even though all parameters were OK. It probably detected something in the other parameters which weren't logged.


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DA was over 2000ft that day and it's only going to get worse. The truck is capable of running 9s but my only issue so far is launching the truck. I'm currently working on a transbrake setup but if I'm not able to make it work by the end of the year when the weather gets better I'm probably going to upgrade my torque converter stall from 2500 to 3500 RPM.

Hope you guys enjoyed this post as it took me a good amount of time to type. I'll keep you guys updated :)
 

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... wow!! So awesome!

Honestly couldn’t think of anything else to say. Can’t imagine what you’ve sunk into that Tundra. Wonder how hard it would be best the 2000hp LandSpeed LandCruiser.
 

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Over 20g to run a mid 10.

No cage either (at least in your pictures). Would get ejected at damn near any real track.

Aftermarket trans controller.....sigh.

You need to quit. Seriously, this is not a hobby you excel at.
 

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BRX, I have been following you story and build for years now, and wow, what an amazing truck you have there!
Congratulations on the fastest Tundra in the world!
 

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W:DW, That was by far the BEST POST Every made on TundraTalk!!!! :D
 

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Thanks for keeping us all in the loop. Been following your build for years, especially after all the trauma I thought it would never get completed.
 

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It's ALIIIIIIIIIIVE!!! Glad to see that thing finally get put back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for the kind words :)

I'm still not done with this thing, not until it runs 9s.

With the transmission being the weak point and slowing my times considerably, I've been looking for other options.

The AA80E that is found in Lexus cars (ISF, RCF, LS460) actually looks like a bolt on swap with very minor modification. HGM is working on a tuning solution for it and with some valve body work and additional clutch packs it should hold as much torque if not more than the AB60 in our trucks.

But the main reason for the swap would be the almost instant 0.2 second shifts and higher gear ratios. I might do the swap if HGM is able to tune it before next season. The torque converter and flex plate should swap over too so I'm not wasting money upgrading my torque converter in the mean time.

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Friction welding 5th gear was freaking crazy!

Isn't the AA80E an inherently weaker transmission, though? I mean, the 5.7 tundras have a 60 series transmission, the 4.6 (and I think 4.7s) had a 70 series... is going to an 80 series a step in the wrong direction? Kind of like going from a TH400 to a TH350 because 1st gear is lower (I know that's not the same reason for you, but same logic)?

I was under the impression that Lexus tunes their drivetrains for smoothness, not robustness. I would think they put a bit more in to the shift logic and engine management to de-fuel more between shifts and engage gears/clutches at a more variable rate (read-slower). Of course, I may just be speaking out of my hind quarters as the ISF and rCF are more "track oriented" compared to most Lexus vehicles.

There was a guy in town here that competed at the Diesel Power Challenge with his Duramax and won several years in a row - 4 years in a row, if memory serves. The last year he competed, he swapped the "heavy, slow shifting" Allison 6 spd for a 4 speed Dodge transmission for the simple reason that he wanted fewer and quicker shifts, thinking fewer shifts would mean better track times. Which I understand the logic; If his truck shifted four times to down the track with the Allison, but only twice with the Dodge, he'd essentially have maybe a few tenths of second more powering the wheels. Even though the transmission with built with just about every aftermarket part available, it blew chunks on the drag strip and knocked him out of the competition.

Not trying to be critical, maybe just analytical. If you do ditch your IPT build trans, I'm sure I could find a place to "dispose" of it.. hahah :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Friction welding 5th gear was freaking crazy!

Isn't the AA80E an inherently weaker transmission, though? I mean, the 5.7 tundras have a 60 series transmission, the 4.6 (and I think 4.7s) had a 70 series... is going to an 80 series a step in the wrong direction? Kind of like going from a TH400 to a TH350 because 1st gear is lower (I know that's not the same reason for you, but same logic)?

I was under the impression that Lexus tunes their drivetrains for smoothness, not robustness. I would think they put a bit more in to the shift logic and engine management to de-fuel more between shifts and engage gears/clutches at a more variable rate (read-slower). Of course, I may just be speaking out of my hind quarters as the ISF and rCF are more "track oriented" compared to most Lexus vehicles.

There was a guy in town here that competed at the Diesel Power Challenge with his Duramax and won several years in a row - 4 years in a row, if memory serves. The last year he competed, he swapped the "heavy, slow shifting" Allison 6 spd for a 4 speed Dodge transmission for the simple reason that he wanted fewer and quicker shifts, thinking fewer shifts would mean better track times. Which I understand the logic; If his truck shifted four times to down the track with the Allison, but only twice with the Dodge, he'd essentially have maybe a few tenths of second more powering the wheels. Even though the transmission with built with just about every aftermarket part available, it blew chunks on the drag strip and knocked him out of the competition.

Not trying to be critical, maybe just analytical. If you do ditch your IPT build trans, I'm sure I could find a place to "dispose" of it.. hahah :D
That's exactly what I'm worried about too, but the issue with the 60 series is it takes a really looooong time between asking it to shift and when it actually shifts.

My 10.6 was my highest HP pass (see the video when I had the go pro in the cab). I had the shift points at 5000 RPM to be able to shift at 6700 for the previous pass with less power in it. Because I didn't change the shift point it hit the limiter at every single shift causing me at least 2-3 tenths.

I also had the ECU pull boost from 25 to 15 psi for some reason as the logs weren't showing any issues but that's besides the point.

Due to the slow shifting issue it had made me mess up multiple times when I tried manually shifting it on previous passes (see the first pass in the video when it back fired) in that pass I wasn't able to shift it into 3rd in time so it kept revving and I let off because I knew it won't be a clean pass.

With all that said, the AA80E seems to be structed the same as the AB60 in regards to the valve body. Thanks to the quicker shifts there won't be much slippage at least in theory thus saving the clutches from frying. By modifying the valve body to add more line pressure and stiffer accumelator springs like we did in the AB60 it should shift much firmer and quicker.

One last advantage is going into over drive. We have some half mile and roll racing events and I can't compete due to 5th gear being a weak point. I'm hoping the AA80E does not have this issue but this is all just speculation for now until HGM can control the thing.

For now I'll go 1.5" bigger in the rear tires from 30" to 31.5" to have more speed in the 1/4 mile. I almost instantly hit the limiter after passing and if I'm going to run 9s these tires won't cut it. I actually calculated my top speed with 30" tires but apparently they're actually about 28.5" not 30" which would give a trap speed of 139. With the 31.5" (probably 30" measured) I should have more head room at over 145 mph.



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Discussion Starter #12
I forgot to mention, the ISF and RCF guys have never ever over powered the AA80E. There is 0 issues with that transmission in regards to handling power. Granted there are some that have manufacturing issues which is normal, but they have been pushing +600 with Superchargers and not one person has complained of slippage or over heating.

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Wow. Command at 5k and shift at 6.7k? Crazy. I did notice some erratic shifting a few places in that video. Was is Black Bart that had the same problem bouncing off the rev limiter when he took his truck to the track?? Been too long since I read through those threads..

I wonder if there's more that can be down with the AB60E valve body. Increased line pressure and stiffer springs in the accumulators sounds like a basic, mild shift kit. I've not seen a lot of aftermarket performance parts for it; there are several small bits to correct things like valve bore wear and whatnot, but nothing like what is available for GM or Ford transmissions. (granted, I consider many of those transmission undersized or simply inadequate from the factory). I'm sure the guys at IPT know what they doing - certainly more than I do - but your build is truly unique. That's heaps of power for any trans to handle. I wonder if there are some other hard part valve upgrades that can be done in the VB to increase pressure or fluid volume. More pump upgrades? Remove a couple of check balls? For example, in some the 4l60e's that I've done, you can grind a notch in a certain place on one of the valve rod (yes, I know that's the wrong name for it, just can think of the RIGHT name for it right now) to make it shift from reverse to drive faster; you can also drill out a few passage ways to improve oiling or relieve pressure on the backside of a valve for a quicker shift; and, of course, there's always the boost valve. Just wondering if IPT might have any tricks up their sleeves.

Out of curiosity (and maybe you posted this in one of your other threads), did IPT upgrade frictions in the trans? I don't see why they wouldn't, but I don't know what is available. Carbon fiber frictions and steels were the rage in Allison's placed behind tuned duramax trucks. I looked in to it a while back and, IIRC, they handle the heat better and have better friction properties than stock, but maybe only 90% of what the stickiest aftermarket frictions could do. I also recall being able to shoehorn a few extra frictions and steels in to my old C6 to give it more bite. Shim it on the tighter side of allowable tolerances and it would bark the tires even without a ton a power. Again, I've never been in to the AB60E, so I couldn't tell you exactly what's going on in there - only what I can read off a PDF diagram.

Also, I know that a few of the solenoids in the AB60E are variable force solenoids. Perhaps those could be replace with high-force on/off units (they call those linear?? or are the variable force units called linear??). Maybe put a race-only selectable piggy back voltage booster on certain transmission solenoids? After all, they're just electromagnets - increase the electro to increase the magnet... I'm sure they would have to be dealt with in the ECU as well. Just spit balling here...

Else the AA80E sounds hopeful.

Either way, you get to continue to be the guinea pig :) Keep it up so the rest of us can continue to drool while we are dreaming... hahaha.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow. Command at 5k and shift at 6.7k? Crazy. I did notice some erratic shifting a few places in that video. Was is Black Bart that had the same problem bouncing off the rev limiter when he took his truck to the track?? Been too long since I read through those threads..

I wonder if there's more that can be down with the AB60E valve body. Increased line pressure and stiffer springs in the accumulators sounds like a basic, mild shift kit. I've not seen a lot of aftermarket performance parts for it; there are several small bits to correct things like valve bore wear and whatnot, but nothing like what is available for GM or Ford transmissions. (granted, I consider many of those transmission undersized or simply inadequate from the factory). I'm sure the guys at IPT know what they doing - certainly more than I do - but your build is truly unique. That's heaps of power for any trans to handle. I wonder if there are some other hard part valve upgrades that can be done in the VB to increase pressure or fluid volume. More pump upgrades? Remove a couple of check balls? For example, in some the 4l60e's that I've done, you can grind a notch in a certain place on one of the valve rod (yes, I know that's the wrong name for it, just can think of the RIGHT name for it right now) to make it shift from reverse to drive faster; you can also drill out a few passage ways to improve oiling or relieve pressure on the backside of a valve for a quicker shift; and, of course, there's always the boost valve. Just wondering if IPT might have any tricks up their sleeves.

Out of curiosity (and maybe you posted this in one of your other threads), did IPT upgrade frictions in the trans? I don't see why they wouldn't, but I don't know what is available. Carbon fiber frictions and steels were the rage in Allison's placed behind tuned duramax trucks. I looked in to it a while back and, IIRC, they handle the heat better and have better friction properties than stock, but maybe only 90% of what the stickiest aftermarket frictions could do. I also recall being able to shoehorn a few extra frictions and steels in to my old C6 to give it more bite. Shim it on the tighter side of allowable tolerances and it would bark the tires even without a ton a power. Again, I've never been in to the AB60E, so I couldn't tell you exactly what's going on in there - only what I can read off a PDF diagram.

Also, I know that a few of the solenoids in the AB60E are variable force solenoids. Perhaps those could be replace with high-force on/off units (they call those linear?? or are the variable force units called linear??). Maybe put a race-only selectable piggy back voltage booster on certain transmission solenoids? After all, they're just electromagnets - increase the electro to increase the magnet... I'm sure they would have to be dealt with in the ECU as well. Just spit balling here...

Else the AA80E sounds hopeful.

Either way, you get to continue to be the guinea pig :) Keep it up so the rest of us can continue to drool while we are dreaming... hahaha.
Tundra have been having rev limiter issues since the Supercharger came out 10 years ago. Whenever you increase power more than the ECU thinks you're making you're going to bang the limiter. Initially people were using unichip when installing the TRD Supercharger, meaning the OEM transmission controller had stock shift points and hits the limiter.

With the TRD reflash it was much better, but with smaller drag slicks and 40-50hp more you'd go back to the limiter issue.

I'm no valve body expert by any means, however the IPT valve body was built for VERY hard shifting.

When the 5th gear clutch went out I had another valve body from HGM when I ordered the trans controller installed. Thinking maybe some debris went into the IPT valve body I thought I'd play it safe with the HGM one. As soon as I took it out for a drive I knew if I went full power, my transmission would be toast before 2nd gear.

The shifting was almost as soft as stock. I actually enjoyed driving it lol. I immediately dropped the transmission oil pan and tried adding more line pressure by moving the pressure screw and one of the linear solenoids (SLT). This made an improvement but it was more stock than the IPT one.

Next day I went back to the IPT valve body and it was shifting as firm as ever. Lets just say I should add a warning/disclaimer on my passenger door saying no pregnant woman or elderly people allowed.

Keep in mind I didn't even touch the accumulators or springs. Just the valve body. So I'm pretty confident that IPT did everything they can to make this transmission shift as fast and firm as possible.

There are 4 linear solenoids in total I think they're the ones starting with "SL" which I think control the pressure, all the others are on/off which I think are the shifting solenoids so I think we're good there.

Regarding the friction plates, they looked fairly stock just like the no name ones I got to replace the 5th gear clutches. The only difference my transmission guy saw was that it had more friction plates per pack which is what IPT said they did.

I'm going to order a complete clutch pack from them before next season just to be on the safe side if anything goes wrong again.

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Discussion Starter #16
So what are you going to do with the trd 22" wheels??? ;)

Anything wrong with pauter rods or just wanted to go with carrillo rods because you went with carrillo pistons?
Nothing wrong with Pauter rods, but compared to the Carrillo H beams they're weaker. Dynosty contacted CP/Carrillo and they recommend this setup for 1000HP.

I have the wheels at home, might switch back when I get bored from the Enkeis or put them on the Sequoia.

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Discussion Starter #18

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ever since I got the truck here in the UAE I've been battling with high coolant temps. The first thing I did was install a lower temp thermostat (160F vs 200F OEM) which helped considerably. I would be able to maintain 165F to 185F at night depending on driving conditions.

Unfortunately, it would still eventually reach over 205F if driven in +95F weather and with the AC on it would reach close to 210F. Turns out I had too much freon in the AC system which created a lot of heat in the condenser. Lowered the freon and temps dropped to 200F at noon.

I almost had no high temps after that except when I went into boost or let the truck idle for over 15 minutes. If my coolant temp was 185F it would shoot to over 205F in a few seconds under boost. (See first video)

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b0a429e17e12/VID_133741214_214835_479.mp4

So what I did was remove the 2 16" spal fans and their shroud. They have served me well since 2012 but they simply restrict airflow at anything above 50mph.

I went with a Bosch fan out of a Mercedes that has an 850 watt or a little over 1hp motor. This single fan is able to flow over 5000 cfm. With much less of a shroud, I could see the engine through the grill now. I had much improved cooling above 50mph. Cruising at noon in 105F degree weather I had no problem maintaining coolant temps of around 185F.





At wide open throttle it has improved significantly, temps are cooler before going WOT resulting in cooler temps overall and as soon as I let off it would drop down to the initial temp in a matter of seconds. (See second video)

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b0a4487e057b/VID_133741215_144016_370.mp4

Now only one issue remains. I let the truck run for 45 minutes at noon (100F) with AC on. I came out and coolant temp was almost 205F. Which isn't overheating per say but still means my cooling system isn't capable of dropping temps at a stop. Taking it for a quick 5 minute drive dropped temps to 190F. This is not due to the smaller shroud as it was still doing the same with the spal fans setup.

I'm thinking with twin turbos both heating up the oil and with my oil cooler being separated from my radiator unlike stock with no fan or airflow, my guess is that the oil temp gets extremely hot at a stop. My next plan is to add a fan to my huge Setrab oil cooler. Probably one of the two spal fans I took off. I know I can do better because my friend with a single turbo is running the factory oil cooling system and is able to maintain sub 170 degrees in traffic with the same koyo radiator, electric fan and shroud. I will try to add an oil temp sensor as well if I have any room for additional sensors on the Haltech.

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The first thing I did was install a lower temp thermostat (160F vs 200F OEM) which helped considerably.
BRX, could you please provide a part number for the low temp thermostat, I've been looking around and can't find one. Thanks!

Unfortunately, it would still eventually reach over 205F if driven in +95F weather and with the AC on it would reach close to 210F. Turns out I had too much freon in the AC system which created a lot of heat in the condenser. Lowered the freon and temps dropped to 200F at noon.
Are you still using the Killer Chiller with your new air to water intercooler?
 
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