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0w-20 vs 0w30

29K views 70 replies 23 participants last post by  ColoradoTJ 
#1 ·
This is not a motor oil question or review, just an experience. I took my truck to the dealer last saturday for them to change my oil (first mistake). I bought 2 gallons of amsoil ss 0w-30, knowing our truck takes 7.9quarts. 1 gallon equals 4 quarts, so 8 quarts of oil and an amsoil filter. The dealer calls me back and states that I have the wrong kind of oil, the truck takes 0w-20. I tell them that I know, and that I want to use 0w-30 because I tow. The dealer then tells me that the 0w-30 may cause a check engine light!!! I told her she was full of it and go ahead and change it.
Two hours later, they call me back and the truck is ready, but it is a quart low on oil! I hit the roof! After much deliberation about their intelligence, I speak with the tech, and he claims that the amsoil fiter is larger than the toyota filter.? When I check the oil, of course it is not a quart low, just a hair below the full line.

Anyway, I wanted to let anyone know who is on the fence about using 0w-20 or 0w-30 There is no check engine light that warns you have the wrong oil, and that the truck is VASTLY quieter and smoother with 0-30. I never liked all the clank clank and diesel sounds my truck made with the 20 weight oil. It is like a whole different beast (ie, no clanking) now that I switched to 30 weight. I will never put that 20 in the truck again! I don't care what the book says about 20 weight, I want my truck to last, and 30 is the way to go for me!! No noticeable drop in MPG either.:machinegunner:
 
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#68 ·
:auto:I got my UOA back from blackstone. The first one is on toyota 0w20 and the second one is Amsoil 0w30

For me and my application, seems that amsoil 0w30 is best. I think the silicon is from the the K&N. May look into changing that back to stock and see what the next report says.

I appreciate your input, cingular, but bobs the oil guy is just a lot of people with opinions. The results from the uoa is what I want to go by for my application.

Good Luck!
:beerchug:
 

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#69 ·
I think what we know about oil is an on going learning experience. Years ago most of us old timers were convinced we had to change oil every 2,000 miles or so. We also used heavier oils such as 10-40. Also ran 90 weight gear oil in the manual transmissions. Now most manuals run engine oil.
As the years go by the oils (now mostly syn or syn blends) get thinner and thinner yet our engines last longer than they used to. Now we have manufactures recommending 0-20 weight for some cars as well as 100,000 mile powertrain warranty (Hyundai). We rarely hear about any engine needing new rings or a rebuild and often hear others talk about 200,000 miles on their current ride and the engine is still in great shape. Just as many of these high mileage motors are running dyno oil as syn.

The stubborn side in me tells me I don't want to use 0-20 weight but I have to believe the builder of the car or truck has my best interest at heart. Oil continues to improve as does the quality of how the vehicles are being built.
 
#70 · (Edited)
I do have a UOA, I just used a photo hosting link in my other post because I had trouble uploading a picture.

A 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 with 6,000 miles on a run of Motul X-lite 0W-30 with a TRD oil Filter and stock Toyota Air Filter and 22 percent BP, 22 Percent Shell and 56 Percent Chevron/Texaco, only one tank of injector cleaner used during the drain. The Tundra was used for about 3,000 miles of interstate without a trailer and 3,000 miles to tow a 3,000lb trailer up and down steep hills on short trips, in a mild Southeast USA climate.

The result was that the 0W-30 was ok in the short term, but the increased viscosity and fuel dilution created a small amount heat/wear in the engine. 0W-20 is a much better choice for this engine according to the professional interpretation of this oil report.
 

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