0w-20 vs 0w30

http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/2...3Motul0w30-TOYTUN-12-ENG_zpsb15c74bb.jpg.html

A 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 with 6,000 miles on a run of Motul X-lite 0W-30 with a TRD oil Filter and stock Toyota Air Filter and 22 percent BP, 22 Percent Shell and 56 Percent Chevron/Texaco, only one tank of injector cleaner used during the drain. The Tundra was used for about 3,000 miles of interstate without a trailer and 3,000 miles to tow a 3,000lb trailer up and down steep hills on short trips, in a mild Southeast USA climate.

The result was that the 0W-30 was ok in the short term, but the increased viscosity and fuel dilution created a small amount heat/wear in the engine.

The end result is that, subject to your own personal oil testing/applications, my consensus thus far is to definitely use a 0W-20 or 5W-20, Probably M1 AFE or Toyota Branded oil, which is made by XOM, but was made specifically to Toyota’s Specifications. Honda appears to have back specified 5W-20 in the Sixth Generation accords; I am testing 0W-20 in that application too.

For the drivetrain/differentials, the Toyota 75W-85 is probably for CAFE ratings, something like an Amsoil 75W-110 or a straight 110 weight oil like LE 1605, but I do not have the test data to show anything yet.

As always any oil you pick varies based on your application, and this is mostly over my head, but it seems that there are applications which involve a lot of short trips where the cold-start protection of 0W-20 is better. It appears that even if 0W-20 was created for CAFE ratings, the end result appears to be a win/win for everyone. The easiest to procure, best 0W-20 is probably going to be M1 AFE or Toyota or Honda branded 0W-20. I am currently testing a run of Motul Eco-Lite 0w20.

Red Line/Amsoil might be the best 0W-20 for towing:

Which 0W-20:

Which 0W-20 - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Favorite SN 0W-20:

Favorite SN 0w20? (NOT THE BEST) - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Do you really need any thicker than 0W-20?

Do you really need any thicker than 0W-20? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

:auto:I got my UOA back from blackstone. The first one is on toyota 0w20 and the second one is Amsoil 0w30

For me and my application, seems that amsoil 0w30 is best. I think the silicon is from the the K&N. May look into changing that back to stock and see what the next report says.

I appreciate your input, cingular, but bobs the oil guy is just a lot of people with opinions. The results from the uoa is what I want to go by for my application.

Good Luck!
:beerchug:

I think what we know about oil is an on going learning experience. Years ago most of us old timers were convinced we had to change oil every 2,000 miles or so. We also used heavier oils such as 10-40. Also ran 90 weight gear oil in the manual transmissions. Now most manuals run engine oil.
As the years go by the oils (now mostly syn or syn blends) get thinner and thinner yet our engines last longer than they used to. Now we have manufactures recommending 0-20 weight for some cars as well as 100,000 mile powertrain warranty (Hyundai). We rarely hear about any engine needing new rings or a rebuild and often hear others talk about 200,000 miles on their current ride and the engine is still in great shape. Just as many of these high mileage motors are running dyno oil as syn.

The stubborn side in me tells me I don't want to use 0-20 weight but I have to believe the builder of the car or truck has my best interest at heart. Oil continues to improve as does the quality of how the vehicles are being built.

I do have a UOA, I just used a photo hosting link in my other post because I had trouble uploading a picture.

A 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 with 6,000 miles on a run of Motul X-lite 0W-30 with a TRD oil Filter and stock Toyota Air Filter and 22 percent BP, 22 Percent Shell and 56 Percent Chevron/Texaco, only one tank of injector cleaner used during the drain. The Tundra was used for about 3,000 miles of interstate without a trailer and 3,000 miles to tow a 3,000lb trailer up and down steep hills on short trips, in a mild Southeast USA climate.

The result was that the 0W-30 was ok in the short term, but the increased viscosity and fuel dilution created a small amount heat/wear in the engine. 0W-20 is a much better choice for this engine according to the professional interpretation of this oil report.