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0w-20 vs 0w30

25842 Views 70 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  ColoradoTJ
This is not a motor oil question or review, just an experience. I took my truck to the dealer last saturday for them to change my oil (first mistake). I bought 2 gallons of amsoil ss 0w-30, knowing our truck takes 7.9quarts. 1 gallon equals 4 quarts, so 8 quarts of oil and an amsoil filter. The dealer calls me back and states that I have the wrong kind of oil, the truck takes 0w-20. I tell them that I know, and that I want to use 0w-30 because I tow. The dealer then tells me that the 0w-30 may cause a check engine light!!! I told her she was full of it and go ahead and change it.
Two hours later, they call me back and the truck is ready, but it is a quart low on oil! I hit the roof! After much deliberation about their intelligence, I speak with the tech, and he claims that the amsoil fiter is larger than the toyota filter.? When I check the oil, of course it is not a quart low, just a hair below the full line.

Anyway, I wanted to let anyone know who is on the fence about using 0w-20 or 0w-30 There is no check engine light that warns you have the wrong oil, and that the truck is VASTLY quieter and smoother with 0-30. I never liked all the clank clank and diesel sounds my truck made with the 20 weight oil. It is like a whole different beast (ie, no clanking) now that I switched to 30 weight. I will never put that 20 in the truck again! I don't care what the book says about 20 weight, I want my truck to last, and 30 is the way to go for me!! No noticeable drop in MPG either.:machinegunner:
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Come to think of it, I don't think I have ever seen my dipstick at the full mark. It seems that the couple of "free" toyota care changes it was a little below the full mark then too. I guess I will start driving up to Fayetteville to the dealer there to get my next change done.

It floors me that the dealership doesn't know what oil numbers and weights are!
:mechanic:
They are like a Harley-Davidson dealer, they don't want you to use AMSOIL, AMSOIL saves motors, AMSOIL will cost the dealer lost revenue. It doesn't matter if it's a motorcycle, car or truck dealership, they make the most money on service & repairs.

Free Maintenance is a marketing ploy that forces the owner to go back to the dealership for oil changes. They hang out in the showrooms and look at the new cars while the service dept looks for something they can upsell to the customer. They have a vested interest in having you come back again and again and again. Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your truck? You are the only one; the dealers want to sell you a new one. All you are to the dealer in money in the bank.
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They just pump into motor whatever the wholesale oil drum they bought last month. That's why everyone back then was getting the 5w30 in the 5.7 till new motors were required the 5w20. They overfilled mine on first oil change to 8 quarts when 07 held about 7.2-7.5.
I am sure new drums are 5w20 cause that the new better fuel economy oil BS they are selling.

Come to think of it, I don't think I have ever seen my dipstick at the full mark. It seems that the couple of "free" toyota care changes it was a little below the full mark then too. I guess I will start driving up to Fayetteville to the dealer there to get my next change done.

It floors me that the dealership doesn't know what oil numbers and weights are!
:mechanic:
Free Maintenance is a marketing ploy that forces the owner to go back to the dealership for oil changes. They hang out in the showrooms and look at the new cars while the service dept looks for something they can upsell to the customer. They have a vested interest in having you come back again and again and again. Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your truck? You are the only one; the dealers want to sell you a new one. All you are to the dealer in money in the bank.
That may be the ploy, but they're not Jedis. I can look at cars all day long and not buy one.
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Marketing ploy or evil ploy, it's $11.00 to get the oil changed and if I have to drive an hour to a different dealership I'll just make a day of it and suck it up. When my motor craps out I will be up there with all my documentation demanding a new one!!
Had the ripoff tires for life deal once too. Did the math on that one and it was a crock.


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The dumbest 2 words put together in the English language are " LIMITED LIFETIME".
To which I always respond, which is it limited or lifetime?
They are like a Harley-Davidson dealer, they don't want you to use AMSOIL, AMSOIL saves motors, AMSOIL will cost the dealer lost revenue. It doesn't matter if it's a motorcycle, car or truck dealership, they make the most money on service & repairs.

I disagree, Toyota has built a reputation of quality and reliability, I don't think they are conspiring to cause problems so they can make money on you off of repairs. That would be a pretty poor business model!! Others have tried and failed at miserably.
I disagree, Toyota has built a reputation of quality and reliability, I don't think they are conspiring to cause problems so they can make money on you off of repairs. That would be a pretty poor business model!! Others have tried and failed at miserably.
I am not referring to Toyota, I am referring to individual dealers. They have a vested interest in having you come back again and again and again. They make the most money on parts and service. Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your truck? You are the only one; the dealers want to sell you a new truck. All you are to the dealer is money in the bank.

I'll give you a for instance. Neighbor lady has a Rav4 about 3-4 yrs old now. She drives 100 miles to the dealer to get her oil changed because she fears warranty problems if she does not. She told me they told her that when she bought the car, salesman I presume did that. That is unethical of them to do that, coerce and intimidate her like that.
Mine reads full at 8.5 quarts for some reason.
I am not referring to Toyota, I am referring to individual dealers. They have a vested interest in having you come back again and again and again. They make the most money on parts and service. Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your truck? You are the only one; the dealers want to sell you a new truck. All you are to the dealer is money in the bank.

I'll give you a for instance. Neighbor lady has a Rav4 about 3-4 yrs old now. She drives 100 miles to the dealer to get her oil changed because she fears warranty problems if she does not. She told me they told her that when she bought the car, salesman I presume did that. That is unethical of them to do that, coerce and intimidate her like that.
I hear ya...but..

Like John Wayne said: "Life is tough, it's even tougher when you're stupid"

(I'm NOT calling YOU stupid)
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Mine reads full at 8.5 quarts for some reason.
Do you have a oil cooler (tow package)?
Yeah so maybe thats the difference.
My free service has ended at Toyota dealership so I am just beginning to read up on oil.

Could someone explain to me or post up a link to the claim that 30 is better for the longevity of the engine and 20 is better for the mpg? You would think that less viscosity the oil has better mpg and less wear the engine will experience. Are you saying that 20 is too thin for hot weather or heavy-towing/hauling application?
I put the 0-30 in my wife's rav4. It calls for 0-20 and it always used oil. Now with the 30, no oil loss. My opinion is that 20 is just too light.


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All I can tell you is that with the 30, my truck runs and sounds better. No check engine light, no problems whatsoever. I will never put 20 back into my oil. I have a used oil analysis from the toyo 20 and will do one on my 30 but I am gonna run the 30 for ten thousand miles first!


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My free service has ended at Toyota dealership so I am just beginning to read up on oil.

Could someone explain to me or post up a link to the claim that 30 is better for the longevity of the engine and 20 is better for the mpg? You would think that less viscosity the oil has better mpg and less wear the engine will experience. Are you saying that 20 is too thin for hot weather or heavy-towing/hauling application?
IMO

30 is thicker therefor has better film strength but also causes the engine to work harder due to increased viscosity i.e it's harder to flow the thicker oil and creates more resistance but not more friction. The 20 is thinner and flows easier, less film strength and less resistance means better fuel economy, some would argue that it also lends itself to more friction.
They are like a Harley-Davidson dealer, they don't want you to use AMSOIL, AMSOIL saves motors, AMSOIL will cost the dealer lost revenue.
:rolleyes:
Source Mobil 1 Product Data Sheets:

Kinematic Viscosity
Temp 0w20 5w20 0w30
104F 44.8 49.8 62.9 (Flows 40% slower when luke warm compared to 0w20)
212F 8.7 8.9 10.9 (Flows 25% slower when warm compared to 0w20)

Values not listed at colder temperatures so the kinetic viscosity will be drastically different at say 32F. My choice is hands down 0w20 to reduce my cold engine startup wear.
So, I ran 0w-30 thru my Tacoma for 10 years and 198,000 miles. Ran perfect and didn't burn a drop of oil the day I sold it. Guess the cold start up protection was negligible. Don't think it would have ran so good with 20 :dunno:
To each his own, but its 0w-30 for me.


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