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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is not a motor oil question or review, just an experience. I took my truck to the dealer last saturday for them to change my oil (first mistake). I bought 2 gallons of amsoil ss 0w-30, knowing our truck takes 7.9quarts. 1 gallon equals 4 quarts, so 8 quarts of oil and an amsoil filter. The dealer calls me back and states that I have the wrong kind of oil, the truck takes 0w-20. I tell them that I know, and that I want to use 0w-30 because I tow. The dealer then tells me that the 0w-30 may cause a check engine light!!! I told her she was full of it and go ahead and change it.
Two hours later, they call me back and the truck is ready, but it is a quart low on oil! I hit the roof! After much deliberation about their intelligence, I speak with the tech, and he claims that the amsoil fiter is larger than the toyota filter.? When I check the oil, of course it is not a quart low, just a hair below the full line.

Anyway, I wanted to let anyone know who is on the fence about using 0w-20 or 0w-30 There is no check engine light that warns you have the wrong oil, and that the truck is VASTLY quieter and smoother with 0-30. I never liked all the clank clank and diesel sounds my truck made with the 20 weight oil. It is like a whole different beast (ie, no clanking) now that I switched to 30 weight. I will never put that 20 in the truck again! I don't care what the book says about 20 weight, I want my truck to last, and 30 is the way to go for me!! No noticeable drop in MPG either.:machinegunner:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I bet they were scared they would blow up your engine or something, so they poured your 0w30 out, and put their 0w20 in your truck and called it a day :lol5:[/QUOTE]

I worried about that, but that is the biggest reason I posted. You can immediately tell there is a difference in 0w20 and 0w30. With the 20 the truck sounds like a trash can. With the 30, smooth and quite.




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Lifetime warranty, nice - what all is covered?

Who offers a lifetime warranty - thinking the dealership found a way to gain future service by selling you a lifetime warranty...

So the filter is bigger, but the housing is the same :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bought the truck from Jim Barkley Toyota in Asheville nc. Drove 5 hours there to get it. Loved the dealership. Got serviced at Peterson Toyota (idiots) and of course the only local dealer to me. The warranty comes with the sale, nothing added on. Engine, transmission and drive line 4x4 system.
Jimbarkleytoyota.com




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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No just the oil changes and diff changes which I already did. The cabin filter is not part of the deal.
I want to keep the truck for a long time, when it comes my time for a new vehicle, my daughter will be 16! So you can see me needing to keep it a while.


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I would file a formal complaint with Toyota and maybe even the BBB
 

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Some dealers are pulling the Lifetime warranty for you to buy from them, but ask them where is the paperwork and they will tell you if you bought it there it is automatic. Ask them what all you have to do for that warranty and you will have to get the 100 dollar oil changes AND CHECK everything b.s. I bought the 100,000/ 7 year warranty for the TUNDRA with no deductible for 900 bucks.
Our Subaru at the dealer has the lifetime, but guess what I bought the 7/100,000 for that.
It is a real scam of milking your money with CHECKING things and not doing anything, unless they can give you real papers that say LIFETIME WARRANTY and what it does/ and does not cover.
mY OPINION AND ask them what hoops you have to go through for lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Trust me I was skeptical at first too. I was given a copy of the warranty when I bought the truck. No bs. Follow the Maintenance schedule. I can scan the doc and attach it later.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not even getting the work done from their dealership. I just chose to use Toyota so it would all be there in their computer, and I have a log of it online.
I can use jiffy lube if I want. They just say Ase certified mechanic.


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Any EXPERIENCED mechanic will tell you 0w20 for fuel economy and 0w30 for longevity of engine and towing. I don't mean the phone girl at the dealership now! Go and talk to the Service manager and you will know who you are dealing with on his response too.
 

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Castrol Syntec European Formula(known as German Castrol), 0w-40. If ya don't believe me just search around the interwebs for oil analysis results and information on the base oils used in that specific formula.

0 weight is designed to lessen initial starting wear and tear due to the tight spec these engines have. Now as to 20, 30, or 40... just depends on the duty of the truck and temperatures it will be operating in. It regularly gets 100+ during the summers here while pulling my boat so I chose 0w-30, and as it so happens the european formula castrol syntec is 0w-30 only around here.
 

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Made in German Castrol is 0w30 full synthetic (European formula), I use it in Subaru as 30 weight is what it takes. The 0w40 Castrol full synthetic European formula is made in Belgium, used by the turbo Subaru crowd.
I still have plenty of the 0w20 but when it runs out and at 80-90,000 miles I will switch to 0w30 myself. And to stop buying 2 weights of oil.

Castrol Syntec European Formula(known as German Castrol), 0w-40. If ya don't believe me just search around the interwebs for oil analysis results and information on the base oils used in that specific formula.

0 weight is designed to lessen initial starting wear and tear due to the tight spec these engines have. Now as to 20, 30, or 40... just depends on the duty of the truck and temperatures it will be operating in. It regularly gets 100+ during the summers here while pulling my boat so I chose 0w-40, and as it so happens the european formula castrol syntec is ow-40 only.
 

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Made in German Castrol is 0w30 full synthetic (European formula), I use it in Subaru as 30 weight is what it takes. The 0w40 Castrol full synthetic European formula is made in Belgium, used by the turbo Subaru crowd.
I still have plenty of the 0w20 but when it runs out and at 80-90,000 miles I will switch to 0w30 myself. And to stop buying 2 weights of oil.
You are correct sir, I was remembering incorrectly what I put in since it was nearly 5000 miles ago.

 

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I bought 8 oil changes worth of the castrol 0w30 since advanced auto had the the BOGO AWHILE BACK. I bought the 0w20 for the Tundra. I think they really need to put out that 30w or 40 w will not hurt motor for the hot climates to stop all this talk considering they allow it in other very hot countries. Its CAFE fuel economy BS here in the states if you ask me! When my ext warranty goes, ow30 all the way. I don't tow but if I did it would be 30w.

You are correct sir, I was remembering incorrectly what I put in since it was nearly 5000 miles ago.

 

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I recently changed the oil and filter on my 2013 Tundra 5.7L FFV at 505 miles. I let it drain for a good hour or two. I used a new Toyota filter element. I put in 8 quarts of oil and the diptstick level read about a quarter of the way up from the low mark. So I added another half quart and it reads about one quarter below the high mark. I think the engine oil cooler lines (tow package) add an additional quantity above the advertised 7.9 qts for oil and filter change. It could be as much as a quart higher.

I suspect that if you handed the tech 2 one gallon jugs of AMSOIL, he probably spilled some too. Those big jugs are easy to spill when they are full.

Thanks for the post. I'll probably go with a 30 grade oil in the future too.
 
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