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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sure every question I have has been answered before but it seems everything is scattered. For peace of mind I wanna get my questions out. I am starting with an 08 tundra with 100,000 miles who's ride seems to have gone to shit.
I plan on installing 6112 at top setting and then 5160's in the rear.
I have choosing a 295/70r18 tire and will be putting them on wheels with +18 offset (method standards)I believe there should be no issue fitting this tire maybe removing the mud flap and pushing the plastic forward by the bumper.
I do want some rake so I plan on adding +2 coachbuilder shackles and polly bushings. Seems the shackles come with carrier bearing drop kit.

My questions now are what else am i missing to ensure this setup operates as it should...
Sounds like UCA's are needed to reach proper alignment and to ensure the shock gets full travel. UCA's are expensive, can i get away with out them, or if UCA's are a must what is a cheap but good option.
Everywhere i build this setup a diff drop is not included or not an option. To my understanding a diff drop is needed to ensure the CV joints angles don't get extreme damaging components... Am i right? I am assuming this might be something coachbuilder makes.
Sounds like the older tundras seem to have some drivers side lean. Will the 6112's make this show more? Is this something I should plan on having and purchase a shim before hand, don't wanna have the truck out of commission waiting for a part.
Last but not least, is there anything that I am overlooking that should be done to ensure the best ride. The truck probably is 70% on road 30% offroad.

I plan on tackling this project myself in the next couple weeks and wanna make sure i do it right the first time! Thanks guys look forward to the help getting this project in motion.
 

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You could save a lot of bother and money by setting your 6112s for ~2" of lift, and leave the rear height as is. Better ride, better handling, and better suspension performance, won't need UCAs or carrier drop, or diff drop.

295s and +18 is in the zone where there is a small chance you will hit the body mount under compression. Depends on the specific tires and alignment. The problem will not be solved by cranking up your struts to a higher lift, because any time you hit a bump with your wheels turned, your "lift" goes away.

Cutting the BMC isn't a big deal though.
 

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I have that exact set up, tires and all, and love it. I installed it myself and had no issues. No UCA's needed either. You definitely need a diff drop. I own a 2012 and dont notice any lean but I haven't walked around and measured so idk if it's there. This set up has allowed me to beat the crap out of it for a while now and I have absolutely no complaints. Good luck with the install!
 

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The condition where you *need* UCAs will not occur until your lift is so high that you can't zero camber without them. That's usually ~3-3.5".

But your alignment will suck long before you get to that point. Caster decreases as you lift the front, and this controls the steering's self-centering. The caster adjustment is via the LCA cams. If you have a high lift, both must be maxed out to zero camber, which means you can't use them to increase caster. With a 2" lift or less, you can max out the rear cam and move the front one in to maximize caster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the response rruff. Was going to go with a 35/12.5 originally and thought stepping down to a 34.3/11.6 would ensure on clearing the body mount chop. Do you believe that going up to a +25 would clear the Body Mount? I see that you have 34.6/13 tires on some +25 wheels, did you have to do any chopping or trimming? To my understanding new UCA's will change the geometry and therefore prevent rubbing in those problem areas.
Thanks for your advice.
 

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Thanks for the response rruff. Was going to go with a 35/12.5 originally and thought stepping down to a 34.3/11.6 would ensure on clearing the body mount chop. Do you believe that going up to a +25 would clear the Body Mount? I see that you have 34.6/13 tires on some +25 wheels, did you have to do any chopping or trimming? To my understanding new UCA's will change the geometry and therefore prevent rubbing in those problem areas.
Thanks for your advice.
There is a *small* chance you will hit the body mount. +25 would be even smaller, +30 or +35 *really* small.

My tires rubbed the mount so I had to cut it. I have zero lift. Had a little fun with the angle grinder, no big deal. I might have been ok with +30 or +35 offset, or if I'd just played with the alignment cams to move the wheels forward. But I didn't have much forward clearance either even after pushing the plastic forward, so I just said the heck with it, and cut the mounts.

IMO a 2" is a good lift with stock UCAs. You'll have some LCA adjustment range and your caster won't suck. I'd get UCAs for anything higher. Aftermarket UCAs move the upper balljoint both rearward and inward. That rearward movement will actually move the rear wheel back a bit, but you will be able to move if forward with the LCA cams. I'm hoping you understand how the suspension works and can visualize this!

Understanding is important, because apparently a lot of alignment shops do not understand it. You need to tell them exactly what you want to achieve, and *how* to do it if they can't figure it out.

35x12.5 are usually only ~34.6" and they are measured on 10" rims, so they are only ~12.1" wide on 9" rims. If you are wanting ~35" tires for your Tundra on 18" wheels, these are your options. All have been normalized to 9" width wheels using the 40% rule (1 inch of wheel width changes the tire width ~0.4"), and are "averages" based on actual specs. The 305/70s tend to be the largest diameter and are also quite wide, so hardest to fit. 325/65s are the same dia as 35x12.5s typically but are wider.

295/70r18 (~34.3x12.0)
285/75r18 (~34.8x11.7)
305/70r18 (~35.1x12.6)
35x12.5r18(~34.6x12.1)
325/65r18 (~34.6x12.8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Ruff I do understand how the suspension works and have a shop I have worked with in the past to achieve the alignment i am looking for. Seems with 2 inches of lift tell them to max out caster on the rear adjustment then adjust front caster to achieve correct alignment then last but not least camber adjustments. Sounds like I will be looking for a different offset wheel. You are really trying to push the 2 inches of lift on me, seems that you have 35/13 tires are you experiencing any rubbing at the top of the wheels at full stuff? seems like there wouldn't be enough room for the suspension to cycle?
 

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Seems with 2 inches of lift tell them to max out caster on the rear adjustment then adjust front caster to achieve correct alignment then last but not least camber adjustments.
1 notch from the top should get you a little over 2" and the middle notch a little under. Either should be fine.

Ideally you want to miss the body mount in the back and the bumper and liner in the front. Moving the wheel as far forward as possible might not be the best. But *if* you want it as far forward as possible (and maximize caster), you move the rear cam out as far as possible, then adjust the front to zero camber. They are both set with the LCA cams, and camber must be precise! Caster you just want it as high as you can get it, and by maxing out the rear cam it will be.

I think my truck sits higher than most, not sure why. I have 5" of clearance to the fender currently. I could probably get it to touch if I hit a bump hard enough, but it hasn't happened yet. If it ever does I'll put some washers under the bumpstops to prevent it.

Oh, one other thing. I think I'd save a little money and get 5100s for the rear. Last I looked the 5160s only had a 90 day warranty for some reason, and some people have experienced failures.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1 notch from the top should get you a little over 2" and the middle notch a little under. Either should be fine.

Ideally you want to miss the body mount in the back and the bumper and liner in the front. Moving the wheel as far forward as possible might not be the best. But *if* you want it as far forward as possible (and maximize caster), you move the rear cam out as far as possible, then adjust the front to zero camber. They are both set with the LCA cams, and camber must be precise! Caster you just want it as high as you can get it, and by maxing out the rear cam it will be.

I think my truck sits higher than most, not sure why. I have 5" of clearance to the fender currently. I could probably get it to touch if I hit a bump hard enough, but it hasn't happened yet. If it ever does I'll put some washers under the bumpstops to prevent it.

Oh, one other thing. I think I'd save a little money and get 5100s for the rear. Last I looked the 5160s only had a 90 day warranty for some reason, and some people have experienced failures.
Looks like your saving me tons here glad i posted before pulling the trigger. You are right on the 5160 warranty being 90 days while the 5100's have a limited lifetime warranty. I will mention i have read plenty of reviews on here saying the 5160's are worth it and really not much more, but warranties are worth it i suppose.
Warranty
I have no problem cutting the front bumper to fit the tires, I will replace with a steel bumper when the funds are there. So seems with my method of alignment i might be able to pull of the +18 wheels by pushing the rear cam out and adjusting the front I understand camber must be precise, isn't that why we take our vehicles to get aligned so the camber is correct leaving the tire sitting flat on the ground for even wear and tear.

This discussion has brought up another question. I was looking at coachbuilder shackles and polly bushings to help improve the ride and decrease bed bounce because i wanted to lift the back to maintain some rake. Looking like I won't be needing shackles for lift but should i buy stock height ones and bushings to decrease bed bounce....probably the most annoying thing to me as far as ride goes.
 

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I recommend you do the front first and drive it awhile so it settles, then see if you want a rear lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This thread was intended to ensure i was purchasing all the right components for the lift i wanted...I have done my research and am aware of the lift i want...Thanks for throwing your opinion out
 
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