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post #226 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rruff View Post
That's an interesting take on things. Shows you are thinking! But the outer circumference of the tire spinning in air is not important. The only thing that matters is the ground contact. One wheel revolution will be 2 x pi x r, where r is the distance from the center of the hub to the ground (perpendicular distance).

Did you already switch to 295s? Does the speedometer really need recalibration? Does it screw up the truck's operation if you don't? I'm fine with my speedometer reading 5% low.
Thanks for your patience.... Doesn't 2(pi)(r) assume a true circle? It seems all bets are off, as soon as that circle becomes mis-shapened? Theoretically, I see the logic; but, it's difficult for me to let go of the fact that the tread length isn't changing here (except in the case of potential expansion, as we suggested earlier--as a function of centrifugal force). I guess I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around the notion that a flatter tire means fewer wheel revolutions over the same distance. Hmm.

I bought my truck a few weeks ago and switched to the 295's within a few days. Having only driven the 275 Michelins for 20 miles or so, I don't have much of a reference point. There've been a couple of isolated moments, where I thought the transmission might have been hunting/hesitating a bit; but, it could've been my imagination. I'm encouraged to hear you and a few others say you're not concerned with recalibration. I like the "stuffed" look in the wheel wells and am hoping I won't rub/bump too badly when getting a little more aggressive off road. My plan is to go with +2 shackles and 2 shims per side. At that height, I'm no longer able to get into most parking garages in this area. The garage at the office has a 6'-6" clearance, and I'm already about an inch away from that. I also plan to install a Warn Zeon 12-S in an SDHQ hidden mount, so I'm thinking that will bring the front end back down a tad for a level or ever-so-slightly raked final stance. I generally don't tow anything heavy--just a lightweight kayak trailer. Next mod may be a Magnuson SC to help compensate for all the extra weight. I'm not exactly losing any myself.

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post #227 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for your patience.... Doesn't 2(pi)(r) assume a true circle? It seems all bets are off, as soon as that circle becomes mis-shapened? Theoretically, I see the logic; but, it's difficult for me to let go of the fact that the tread length isn't changing here (except in the case of potential expansion, as we suggested earlier--as a function of centrifugal force). I guess I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around the notion that a flatter tire means fewer wheel revolutions over the same distance. Hmm.

I bought my truck a few weeks ago and switched to the 295's within a few days. Having only driven the 275 Michelins for 20 miles or so, I don't have much of a reference point. There've been a couple of isolated moments, where I thought the transmission might have been hunting/hesitating a bit; but, it could've been my imagination. I'm encouraged to hear you and a few others say you're not concerned with recalibration. I like the "stuffed" look in the wheel wells and am hoping I won't rub/bump too badly when getting a little more aggressive off road. My plan is to go with +2 shackles and 2 shims per side. At that height, I'm no longer able to get into most parking garages in this area. The garage at the office has a 6'-6" clearance, and I'm already about an inch away from that. I also plan to install a Warn Zeon 12-S in an SDHQ hidden mount, so I'm thinking that will bring the front end back down a tad for a level or ever-so-slightly raked final stance. I generally don't tow anything heavy--just a lightweight kayak trailer. Next mod may be a Magnuson SC to help compensate for all the extra weight. I'm not exactly losing any myself.
On my 2008 tundra I had 35x12.50x20 and mine was doing the "hunting to find a gear" and after installation of hypertech speedometer calibrator it fixed the problem.

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post #228 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 03:25 PM
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And if the stuffed look is the look you like then absolutely go for it. Its whatever makes you happy and what you like.

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post #229 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 04:02 PM
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And if the stuffed look is the look you like then absolutely go for it. Its whatever makes you happy and what you like.

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Anything larger than the stock Michelins is better IMO. I'm not convinced the 295's were a much better choice than something a little smaller. Might could've gone with a 285 or even a 275/70, still been happier than with the Michelins, and wouldn't be obsessing so much over the performance implications, geometry, etc. OCD is a bitch.

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post #230 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 04:22 PM
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Thanks for your patience.... Doesn't 2(pi)(r) assume a true circle? It seems all bets are off, as soon as that circle becomes mis-shapened? Theoretically, I see the logic; but, it's difficult for me to let go of the fact that the tread length isn't changing here (except in the case of potential expansion, as we suggested earlier--as a function of centrifugal force). I guess I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around the notion that a flatter tire means fewer wheel revolutions over the same distance. Hmm.
Now you are making my brain hurt! The entire unloaded circumference of the tread *is* hitting the ground with each revolution. The only thing I can think of is that the tire distorts and scrubs at the contact point to make up the difference between that and 2 x pi x r.

I'm kinda confused about this gear hunting that is mentioned. I've read that the computer is "smart" and adjusts to your driving habits. But what does it adjust exactly and why? If it is hunting for gears, that might be because has yet to adjust to your new tire size. I'm planning to build an offroad camper on mine, so it will need to make adjustments that are a lot bigger than what it needs for a tire change! Like a lot more weight and aero resistance.
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post #231 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 07:22 PM
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|Blacked out| |Color matched| |Fox 2.5 resi coilovers| |Fox 2.0 resi shocks| |Coachbuilder shims| |Method grid wheels| |295 70 18 trail grapplers| |Pro grill| |32in light bar| |Weathertechs| |TRD rear sway bar| |D2s retrofit| |Relentless bed bars/cargo spare tire setup| |smittybillt rtt| |ARB 1250 awning||Led bulb swap|
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post #232 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 07:51 PM
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Now you are making my brain hurt! The entire unloaded circumference of the tread *is* hitting the ground with each revolution. The only thing I can think of is that the tire distorts and scrubs at the contact point to make up the difference between that and 2 x pi x r.
Perhaps, this makes sense...As you say, for our purpose, the diameter of the wheel/tire starts with the perpendicular measurement from the center hub to the ground. Here, we're determining the effective radius. The flat portion of the tire, created under load, effectively reduces the circumference of the tire by a length equal to the radian length we lose from the length of tread in contact with the ground. In other words, by cutting a line through the edge of the circle, we remove that resulting length from the total circumference to get the effective circumference. So, the number of revolutions per foot or per mile, etc. is actually increased as a result of creating this constant flat spot in the tire; and, the flatter the tire, the shorter the effective radius, the shorter the effective circumference...and, the more revolutions we get over the same ground distance. I'll spare everyone by stopping there. I'm surprised I haven't already drawn fire for this as it is, but this seems like a great group on the forum.

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I'm kinda confused about this gear hunting that is mentioned. I've read that the computer is "smart" and adjusts to your driving habits. But what does it adjust exactly and why? If it is hunting for gears, that might be because has yet to adjust to your new tire size. I'm planning to build an offroad camper on mine, so it will need to make adjustments that are a lot bigger than what it needs for a tire change! Like a lot more weight and aero resistance.
I'm assuming there's code that acts upon the input of engine RPM's, load and speedometer readings, all of which is affected by gearing as well as all the stuff we've been discussing. I'd think an "unexpected" wheel/tire size could influence the computer's "decision" as to when to upshift/downshift. Not sure I see the rationale behind "hunting" per se, but I'd expect for automatic shifting to potentially occur at different-than-normal RPM's, if more weight is placed on wheel speed? I don't know. Again, I haven't noticed any big issues and am not complaining. Mainly just curious.

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post #233 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:23 PM
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How did you paint the front grill letters. Did you remove them? If so, how hard was it?
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post #234 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:25 PM
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How did you paint the front grill letters. Did you remove them? If so, how hard was it?
Who are you asking this?

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post #235 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:29 PM
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My bad. Thought I was asking Justroc.
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post #236 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:55 PM
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295/70/18 Cooper ST Maxx

Guy here asked you about how you painted the toyota on your grill red. He didn't tag or quote you so just trying to help him out.

Also, did you install the sonar in the front bumper?

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post #237 of 312 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 11:44 AM
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post #238 of 312 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 09:44 AM
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Guy here asked you about how you painted the toyota on your grill red. He didn't tag or quote you so just trying to help him out.

Also, did you install the sonar in the front bumper?

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The Red letters on my grill are just stickers that overlay on top of the existing plastic decals that come on the TRD Pro Grill. They were bought from a local guy on Ebay, however I just looked for his ad and can no longer find it. Will put some further research into getting his contact info for anyone interested in them.

The sonar/parking sensors you are referring to in my front bumper are factory stock from Toyota. All Canadian TRD Pros come stock with this feature.

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post #239 of 312 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 12:09 PM
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The Red letters on my grill are just stickers that overlay on top of the existing plastic decals that come on the TRD Pro Grill. They were bought from a local guy on Ebay, however I just looked for his ad and can no longer find it. Will put some further research into getting his contact info for anyone interested in them.

The sonar/parking sensors you are referring to in my front bumper are factory stock from Toyota. All Canadian TRD Pros come stock with this feature.
Dang, I should've ordered myself a Canadian Pro, yall get sonar, heated seats and sunroof. An American Pro has none of those... Wish I knew what the difference was. Seems ridiculous and is kind of irritating.

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post #240 of 312 (permalink) Old 03-04-2017, 01:27 PM
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Hey everyone, I just installed 295 Nitto G2s and Method NVs on my truck... I removed the front mud flap, but I am still getting rub on the front wheel liner even before the steering is at full turn... Do some rub and others do not?

I have a "Platinum Pro"... Pro Grille, Suspension, and Skid Plate.



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