Thanks for reading the manual. You would be surprise how many owners miss out on all the excellent information in the manual. I'd be willing to bet that some owners are just too lazy while others like you and me are not.
I actually read every owner's manual even for the mundane small things like aq new coffee maker. My wife makes fun of me because of it.
WOW that is one short tongue! Is there a particular reason why you went with such a short tongue?
It is short but only because the V-nose sits 18 inches over the tongue where a flat nose would be 18 inches rearward allowing roughly 36 inches of tongue protruding forward from the forward-most wall. So it is not so short operationally as it is accessibility to the frame of the tongue. The handling of the trailer is not impacted at all negatively.
The reason I ordered the trailer with this configuration is actually a set of measurements that are carved in stone. The total length of the trailer must fit completely in my driveway - roughly 21 feet from forward edge of the roof to the sidewalk - or the city zoning people will cite me. Then, further constraining the total size is the cargo requirements. Two Honda Goldwings - one a two-wheeler and the other a trike - and the total footprint of them end to end with minimal space between them to facilitate tying them down meant I needed a centerline floor length of 18 feet. With the V-nose I gained an additional 18 inches centerline plus some aerodynamic advantage. In the end it works perfectly - except the WDH thing.
On more than one occasion I have had to parallel park while towing. I cannot imagine doing that with a short tongue.
In the last few years I have been seeing the trend for extended tongues on trailers. This is especially true of people towing trailers with RVs. Seems like every trailer builder offers that option.
No real concerns regarding the tight turns either forward or reverse when compared to a standard box trailer. It can still get a fairly harsh angle on it before contacting the truck. I haven't tried parallel parking it but it shouldn't be anything too terrible.
I noticed that you had a 860 lb weight bias on the drive axle which is why I mentioned my CAT Scale numbers. Clearly makes the case for a WD Hitch.
This is a terrific observation that I hadn't picked up yet - in those terms anyway. Thank you for that! I would like to send at least the 220 lbs that shifted rearward with the trailer on the ball back up to the front. I think that would be appropriate?? Maybe someone could explain that concept to me and how the weight transfer works in relation to the percentage split front to rear (bias). That would be useful to me.
BTW, a few months ago I was at an Antique Car Event and parked next to a fella with a V-Nose car trailer. He had the same problem you have in that most WD Hitches with sway control were a challenge given his tongue length. He ended up cutting into the V-Nose wall of the trailer above the tongue and boxed the area out on the inside of the trailer. That enabled him to install a WD hitch setup which he really needed given the BIG, HEAVY old car he tows. I may have photos of what he did. If I can find them I will post them here.
I would appreciate the photos of what he did to make his work for him. New ideas always help. I'm not really keen on the idea of cutting into the trailer wall unless there was no other way to do it. I am looking into the Andersen Hitch version and it is looking prettying promising that the Andersen Mfg model 3350 is what I need. The unit is limited on how much weight transfer can really happen but their tech says I can redistribute all of the shifted weight from the front axle without any problem. He also said that part of the limitations of his system is the inability to shift a lot of weight, meaning a four-digit number, up front like a trunnion bar or round bar unit can. The chains can be shortened pretty dramatically and still work correctly. The reviews on these are the sketchy part of the decision so the research goes on.