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post #61 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 08:28 AM
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4, 6 or something else...

I have a 2014 and went BDS 4.5 with 34 inch tires. It works well for towing and snow but if I had to do it all over I would go ADS shocks and some brand of control arm. Rides great but a little weird turning tight.
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post #62 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:11 AM
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I have a 2014 and went BDS 4.5 with 34 inch tires. Rides great but a little weird turning tight.
If you are referring to the lack of being able to turn a tight radius, it would be the steer stops.
I had some welded on with my 3 lift when people started blowing steering racks on the 2009.5s to 13 tundras. Those really killed my turning radius...


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post #63 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 08:25 AM
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If you are referring to the lack of being able to turn a tight radius, it would be the steer stops.

I had some welded on with my 3 lift when people started blowing steering racks on the 2009.5s to 13 tundras. Those really killed my turning radius...


Its more than the limited radius. When turning sharp, the tires squeal and you can feel the tires lay over. Im sure its a quirk of the large spindle.
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post #64 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:46 AM
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Too Much lift, and for what, I rum 12.5 x 33's w/2.5 front leveling lift w/some trimming and 0 on back looks great and handles good
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post #65 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kidrman View Post
I have a 2014 and went BDS 4.5 with 34 inch tires. It works well for towing and snow but if I had to do it all over I would go ADS shocks and some brand of control arm. Rides great but a little weird turning tight.
Thanks for including a picture! It helps to be able to see it. Looks nice with the 34s.
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post #66 of 79 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:10 PM
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I didn't get through all these yet, but wanted to comment before I had to run off. I did a few things in the beginning that I wish I would of not done.

I have 35's on my truck and only have a 3" lift on the front, but the back i went with Coachbuilder Shackles and love them. I had blocks at first and they did not give me the feel that I wanted when driving fast or off road. The Shackles are the way to go.

I ended up putting on the Coachbuilder tie rods and steering stops also. Great products and really well made.

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post #67 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 03:33 PM
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You can stuff 37s on a 3" lift and it'll look more bad ass than any of the trucks you posted links to.
Yep


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post #68 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 03:47 PM
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Out here, that's just daily driving.
37s... what Dragos said.

I got 35s and no lift (and no problems), but even 35s look puny on a Tundra.

1.5" of lift is enough for 37s, but if you want more you can go up to ~3" with coilovers and UCAs IMO, before you start messing up suspension performance with excessive strut-lift. 3" with struts plus ~2.5" with tires (37s vs stock 32s) gets you ~5.5" total.

Best way to do the rear would be a new spring pack, but just shackles would be fine to make it level.

Cost? You were doing new tires and wheels anyway, right? You can go with Bilstein 5100s for <$500, and Toytec shackles for ~$200. Or spend a lot more for better shocks... You'll need a body mount chop too, but that's $0 if your husband knows how to weld... or you just forgo welding on another piece like I did.

A note on wheels. To make 37s work it's best to have wheels in the +35 to +45 offset range which are kinda rare. Lower offsets (which stick out farther) are more likely to rub.


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post #69 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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I got 35s and no lift (and no problems), but even 35s look puny on a Tundra.
That's the big dilemma, really. How much lift do I want and what am I willing to sacrifice to get it? Every time I think I've decided, I find something else. Damn indecisive women...
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post #70 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:36 AM
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That's the big dilemma, really. How much lift do I want and what am I willing to sacrifice to get it? Every time I think I've decided, I find something else. Damn indecisive women...
Also, is increased fuel consumption going to bother you? ...
Every once in a while, someone new on here has a lifted tundra with off road tires and complains how bad their mileage is.....

Just saying, consider the likely 1 downside to lifting and bigger tires...2 if you ever park in parades without 7' + limits, but if you were considering a 6" lift I assume this isn't an issue for you.


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post #71 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Also, is increased fuel consumption going to bother you?
Honestly, I traded my 26+ MPG T&C Touring for my 12.5 MPG (that half is really important ) Tundra. I don't really care about the mileage. Valid things to consider, though!
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post #72 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:19 PM
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That's the big dilemma, really. How much lift do I want and what am I willing to sacrifice to get it? Every time I think I've decided, I find something else. Damn indecisive women...
Our goals are pretty different, so consider that. I'm not after a "look" so much as decent off road performance. Larger diameter tires are the best way to get clearance since they lift everything. Plus they roll over stuff better. And I don't want any more lift than necessary since I already hate that I have to climb up into the damn thing. Plus adding more lift than you get with good struts compromises handling and offroad performance. I *will* get a modest strut lift at some point. Not sure about the 37s. I'll be hauling a load so a regear would be nice anyway. 37s and 5.29 ratios would be ideal, just more $$$. See, I can't decide either...


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post #73 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:53 PM
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Heres the photo you asked for. Let me know if you need anything else to help make your decision.
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File Type: jpg 16F8AE96-ECCA-4A7B-B8B3-F3E945C37D64.jpg (196.3 KB, 28 views)


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post #74 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 02:30 PM
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For bad roads or trail running it is dumb to raise the center of gravity and make the truck easier to flip. The power band for the engine is also shifted with the larger circumfrance of the tire and hardly ideal either on bad surfaces. Stiffer sidewalls with larger tires can also impact the ride and the handling. It also increases wear of the u-joints needed to drive front and rear wheels and these can fail with no warning and at less than opportune times. But if all the kids are doing it then what the hell, go for it.
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post #75 of 79 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 04:14 PM
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But if all the kids are doing it then what the hell, go for it.
You're kinda all over the place.

Raising the center of gravity... ya, not optimal on or off the road to raise that more than necessary.

Larger diameter tires will make your engine run slower and reduce acceleration. But the larger tire definitely performs better off road, and you can get back the acceleration if you regear.

Stiff sidewalls can negatively impact the ride and mpg. They won't hurt the handling though. The ATs I bought improved handling and didn't hurt the ride or mpg. It depends on which tire you get. Burly mud tires would have a negative impact on those things, but if you need the durability and and off-road traction, then...

What "increases the wear on u-joints"? You don't say, but the only thing I can think of is an excessive strut lift. But if you keep that to 3" or less, drop the diff, and get UCAs, it's fine. Keeping it to <2" is better though. I also think if the u-joint is going to fail, you'll have plenty of advance warning. That's been my experience on other vehicles anyway.


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