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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 04:56 PM
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Thanks brother. That will surely help me out.

And no worries. I figured it was worth a shot. Worst case is that I will rub a bit and then I can take care of it at that point.

CJ
I removed the front plastic liner behind the bumper, the part that covers the fog lights, with the intent of cutting it and re-installing it. I just haven't gotten around to cutting it yet. There's a thread over on tundras.com with pictures that shows exactly where to cut. If I can find it, I'll post a link to it.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 05:01 PM
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Hook it to the same spot on both arms. But you can only have one taken apart at a time. Worked great but I had a 2Ē ratchet. Iím not sure if a smaller one would do it.


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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 05:03 PM
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Can't seem to find the thread that has some good pictures on exactly where to cut. But here are a couple other ones that talk about trimming the front plastic liner for more clearance:

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...clearence.html
https://www.tundras.com/threads/whee...er-ones.16501/

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 05:05 PM
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Hook it to the same spot on both arms. But you can only have one taken apart at a time. Worked great but I had a 2Ē ratchet. Iím not sure if a smaller one would do it.


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Ah, gotcha! I got it now. Thanks!

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 06:03 PM
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Thanks man. I remembered earlier today that someone had told me that. They said get the 4x4 version because its a bit heavier duty and will make things easier.

What kind of grease do you recommend? The only thing I have handy currently (other than household things like WD40) is some white lithium grease. I can go pick up whatever I need to if that won't get the job done.

Thank you for the help!

I used some Lucas red tacky and gooped it on heavy. It’s been 25k miles and doing fine


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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:08 PM
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Iíve always used this for poly bushings.



Works great and doesnít attract dirt as bad as grease.

Just do several coats before you install.


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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 12:51 AM
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To tell you specific tools to use to remove the strut and change it out to a shock would be a long list from each and every person that has done this either in their garage or a parking lot. IMO I would say you should just go out and purchase a 1/2Ē drive socket set from around 10mm- 24mm and also a set of open end box end wrenchís same size range. You will also require a spring compressor for the strut itself once it is removed from truck, that you rent from an auto parts store. The exact sizes of the sockets and wrenchís probably isnít exactly correct but you can find full kits somewhere in those ranges.when you buy these tools, buy quality tools because if they break when you are trying to break a nut loose you will stand a good chance of breaking your own nut. Watch some videoís and tackle it, once you do one side which probably will take 2 hours from start to finish and the other side will be faster because you will have confidence in the fact that it wasnít as bad as you first thought. If you need help, ask people here. Everybody here is more than willing to walk somebody through a fix. Good luck and after you are done take pride in the fact that you did it.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks mrmachinist, I will go grab a can of that. I hear that that bushing can be a squeaker, so Im definitely going to hammer it with the grease.

And equin, thank you for the links. I will check them out. I dont think I will need much space (if any), but I am just gonna do it ahead of time so that Im not messing around with it when the wheels/tires are on.

Much appreciated guys.

CJ

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-21-2018, 11:40 AM
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Having someone help you would make your life sooo much easier. I am having flashbacks now of sitting and bouncing on my jack handle (Using as another pry bar) while prying with a smaller pry bar. Not sure if you will have the same experience, but I did a 3 inch leveling kit with a spacer. I assume you will need to pry the LCA down as I did to make enough space to get the coil eyelet back home. Also, to free the UCA from the spindle, just a solid wack from a hammer on the spindle below the UCA will free it. I did not loosed the LCA bolts fyi, and I know a lot of people dont. If you do, it must be done from the inside bolts if that makes sense.

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 11:56 AM
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Yes, if you can have another set of hands helping you, it would make it much easier. I did it by myself, though, but having someone to help would've made things go more quickly and smoothly.

2015 Silver Sky DC SR5 4WD TSS Edition
Bedrug Bed Mat over spay-in liner, TRD Pro skid plate, TRD rear anti-sway bar, 6112/5160 Bilstein combo, 285/75/17 Cooper AT3 XLTs on Icon Rebounds
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