Best/easiest leveling option (for a brand new Tundra owner) - Page 2 - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 06:22 PM
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Thanks phm, I think I'm going to go with the 6112s in the front and 5100s in the back. Based off what everyone's said they are the better of the two plus the 6112s already come with coils. Tundratalk is the titties, its great having all you guys with Tundra experience for questions and advice!
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 08:54 PM
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Ease of install would be coilovers IMO. That's just because I'm not gonna use an autozone spring compressor for 5100s. But I went with 5100s and CB shims on each side to get 3" in the front. Did toytec shackles in the rear for 1.5" there
You don't need a spring compressor.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 08:55 PM
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Fttam, do you have any pics of your setup??? Here's my stock truck. went with the double cab because I saved $4,000. Loving it so far!
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 12:08 AM
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Ease of install would be coilovers IMO. That's just because I'm not gonna use an autozone spring compressor for 5100s. But I went with 5100s and CB shims on each side to get 3" in the front. Did toytec shackles in the rear for 1.5" there
You don't need a spring compressor.
So what do you need ?
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 07:35 PM
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So what do you need ?
This is for a Tacoma but it worked exactly like this for me.

Jack, jack stands, basic hand tools and some elbow grease. The driver's side took me about an hour of slow and easy while figuring it out. Once I knew what I was doing, I banged out the passenger side in twenty minutes.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 07:54 AM
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I just bought a 2018 Tundra limited double cab and I'm looking into different leveling options.

~Dan
Welcome Dan.

I leveled mine by lowering just the rear to match the stock height of the front. It's not slammed or anything close to that, and I am very happy with the results.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tun...resto-mod.html


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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Alright guys, I'm starting to get a little overwhelmed. My only other leveling experience has just been an easy shim level on an old Chevy 1500... but with all these options, it's a lot to take in. So, I would like to do Bilsteins, but then some people say they added shims and didn't need UCAs with a dif. drop, others say you need all this extra crap. Then I start shopping around and find some RC kits that come with UCAs and give you an all around 3 inch lift and level... so then I think, this is America why not go big with a all around 3" lift. On top of all this then you get into Hypertech tuners so your bigger tires don't f*ck up your gas mileage/speedometer.

I do a lot of trail driving and off roading for hunting and for funzies (yes, I just said funzies) which is why I like the Bilsteins. But this is my first brand new vehicle so I don't want to mess sh*t up because lord knows I'll mess something up on install. However, I also want to do things right which is why I like the 6112s even though they are more than the 5100s. I'm a pilot in the military and we have an auto center on post that has everything I'll need for install with lifts so I was more or less just being lazy when I said I wanted to go for ease of install.

If I buy 5100s all around with shims in front, bite the bullet and buy new UCAs, and add a 1 inch block in the rear will this be good for what I want to do? Is this a more cost effective route? It just seems the more research I do the more stuff I need to buy to do things right, lol.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-07-2018, 03:06 PM
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5100's on their top setting with one CB shim don't need New UCAs. 6112's will be easier to Install as you don't have to take apart the strut and you can still add a shim. I started with 5100's top setting +1 CB shim and a 3" block in the rear. 1" in the rear wouldn't require you to really do anything else back there.
Diff drop I'm ignorant on except it's fairly cheap and probably a good idea if you're shooting for 3" or close to it. I'm running 35" tall tires and haven't messed with the Speedo. I always have Waze running anyways and the GPS tells me how fast I'm going. Maybe once my 37's come in.

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:29 AM
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Hey bud, I'm looking at buying bilstein 5100s as well and setting it on top setting with a shim on each side. I want to keep my trd wheels as well. Are you running any wheel spacers? Trying to figure out if the stocks will rub or not. Thanks

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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 01:59 PM
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Depends on what size tire you want to run.

2016 CM SR5 Black on Black on Black, Black Diamondback Bed Cover
Maxtrac Spindles, Bilstein 5100s Top setting Front, Zone +3" Shocks rear
2 CoachBuilder Shims per side, CoachBuilder carrier bearing drop kit
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37x12.5x20 RidgeGrapplers Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 01:59 PM
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I am running wheel spacers now. But not when I had just the 5100's

2016 CM SR5 Black on Black on Black, Black Diamondback Bed Cover
Maxtrac Spindles, Bilstein 5100s Top setting Front, Zone +3" Shocks rear
2 CoachBuilder Shims per side, CoachBuilder carrier bearing drop kit
TRD Pro Grill with 30" Light Bar behind it
37x12.5x20 RidgeGrapplers Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 07:33 PM
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Hey bud, I'm looking at buying bilstein 5100s as well and setting it on top setting with a shim on each side. I want to keep my trd wheels as well. Are you running any wheel spacers? Trying to figure out if the stocks will rub or not. Thanks
I've got the 5100s on the middle setting with a shim on each side, and I'm running 1.25" SpiderTrax spacers.

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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hey bud, I'm looking at buying bilstein 5100s as well and setting it on top setting with a shim on each side. I want to keep my trd wheels as well. Are you running any wheel spacers? Trying to figure out if the stocks will rub or not. Thanks
I've got the 5100s on the middle setting with a shim on each side, and I'm running 1.25" SpiderTrax spacers.


What size tires do you have?? Any rubbing? Iím planning on running your setup with 285/65 but am weary about spacers... have you had any issues?
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 08:31 PM
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I'm running 295/70 Cooper ST Maxx's and I had some rubbing when I first put them on. They would rub while backing. About ten minutes of pushing the liners forward and a slight bit of massaging them with a heat gun and a block of wood and no rubbing. Really easy.

They might not have rubbed without the spacers, as the spacers increase the "turning radius" of the wheel, like a wheel with a different offset might. But the rubbing I did have was minor, and easily cured.

I've got about 10k on the setup with the spacers and I've checked the torque on them three times (once after about 200 miles, and then two rotations) and they didn't require any retorquing. I've had zero issues with them so far.

Pics are before moving the liners forward.





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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dano277 View Post
Alright guys, I'm starting to get a little overwhelmed. My only other leveling experience has just been an easy shim level on an old Chevy 1500... but with all these options, it's a lot to take in. So, I would like to do Bilsteins, but then some people say they added shims and didn't need UCAs with a dif. drop, others say you need all this extra crap. Then I start shopping around and find some RC kits that come with UCAs and give you an all around 3 inch lift and level... so then I think, this is America why not go big with a all around 3" lift. On top of all this then you get into Hypertech tuners so your bigger tires don't f*ck up your gas mileage/speedometer.

I do a lot of trail driving and off roading for hunting and for funzies (yes, I just said funzies) which is why I like the Bilsteins. But this is my first brand new vehicle so I don't want to mess sh*t up because lord knows I'll mess something up on install. However, I also want to do things right which is why I like the 6112s even though they are more than the 5100s. I'm a pilot in the military and we have an auto center on post that has everything I'll need for install with lifts so I was more or less just being lazy when I said I wanted to go for ease of install.

If I buy 5100s all around with shims in front, bite the bullet and buy new UCAs, and add a 1 inch block in the rear will this be good for what I want to do? Is this a more cost effective route? It just seems the more research I do the more stuff I need to buy to do things right, lol.

General rule of thumb, anything over about 2.5", you need a diff drop. I am at 2.5, and didn't use it, I don't offroad. I will likely install it eventually as I have it.

I have swapped uca's. And front co's, but used factory springs, got me right to 2.5". I used Rancho's front kit, and their uca kit. Their uca kit came with shims, which would have gotten me to 3", but I am level at 2.5".

Poly bushing uca's with grease zerks/fittings. I am happy.


Alignment was no issue, drives straight, could even add more caster if I wanted it.


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