I have pretty much the same setup as you on my '13, minus the shims and I run a +3 shackle. I'm even running the same tires in that size.
Something is definitely not right. I would assume a UCA would help. I needed them without the shims. I bought the Tuff Country ball joint ones due to their affordability ($300ish). There are plenty of other options as for as those go.
My first alignment with a stock UCA was horrible. So I put the new UCA on and went to the same alignment guy (who most people recommend around here) and still got crap alignment wore my tires funky in 2k miles.
I went to an alignment shop that's pretty much all they do. No computer machines, old school. They did a great job. The truck drives better than factory. I love how my truck rides and drives. My moms husband has a '12 and he couldn't believe how my truck rides and handles being "lifted"
Now as far as your shake, I would think that would be tire balance related more than alignment. Also check to make sure every bolt is tight. The uneven wear on the tires are an issue that might not ever go away. Mine have gotten better but luckily I caught mine early. I rotate them about every 2500 miles in a modified x pattern. Cross the fronts to the back. And the backs straight to the front.
There is hope for your truck. Try some UCAs and a tire balance. Try to find an alignment shop that all the hot rod guys go to.
Hope that helps.
Thanks! I was hoping to avoid the extra costs of UCAs but seems it may be a requirement at this point if I am going to keep my truck. Pay once.....after all if this is going to wear tires out then the expense of replacing them more often will easily be more than the UCAs. Got a feeling the tires just need to be swapped out at this point, maybe I can get some tread wear warranty out of them to offset that cost. But don't want to do that until I figure out my suspension issues.
@firerover Do you have your stock wheels/tires that you can put back on to see of thats the issue?
I am still running the stock wheels but don't have the tires.
Never accept shitty performance! Something was definitely *wrong* and you needed to get it fixed asap!
Show print out of your alignment specs. Where and how are the tires wearing? Most likely the brain dead shop never aligned it properly. Vibration could be bad tires, but you would have needed to get on that immediately. Could be poor balance also, or just the shit alignment.
You odds are pretty good you need UCAs for that much lift. Any would work. Or you can just reduce the lift to <2.5". You don't need more shims. Replace only tires that are effed up.
Thanks for the feedback. These guys are a good tire shop but think my install was probably a bit beyond their scope. Unfortunately, I am not sure that I have the copies of the alignments. Went looking for them the other day and not sure where I put them. As for balance, I know that the original shop has had issues with that too, blaming it on my stock wheels...not sure if that is a valid statement or not. I don't want to drop to 2.5, love the stance and tires fit in their perfect. I will check out the recommendations and see what works. If you have favorites (affordable and best of breed) in UCAs then I am open.
I pretty much agree with all of the above. The only part where I would question is the upper arms. It just depends on how much correction they provide. Meaning, the location of the upper ball joint is important. Matter of fact it's the only reason you're getting upper arms. By using an aftermarket upper which moves the factory ball joint towards the rear of the truck you are generating +caster from the upper, eliminating the need to 'split the difference' between camber and caster using the lower alignment cams.
With proper uppers you can get 3-4* of + caster 0 camber. And 1/8" in tow super easy. Without trying. Matter of fact here is the magic formula:
Move upper ball joint back 2"
Toe in 1/8"
Factory alignment cams in stock position
=truck drives really awesome.
Total chaos arms move the upper ball joint back 2". Light racing moves it back 1". So do procomp. Not sure on others.
Thanks Keith. I have trusted your judgment before, just wish your shop was here so I could drop it off. That is my biggest problem is my lack of mechanical knowledge coupled with an unknown shop to rely on. If anyone in NC has a biz they recommend to work this out, let me know.
But to summarize your recommendation, I should go with that last setup (upper ball joint back 2", toe in 1/8" with stock align)?? Or does it need to be evaluated first before that is done? Also, Total Chaos are crazy expensive. Are they worth that amount or is there others just as good or that will do fine for a truck that is not taken off road except for some hunting?