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post #1771 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:43 PM
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I made a dedicated thread about this, but figured I'd post briefly here too. One of my 6112's had the cap pop off within the first 100 miles. I'm able to snap it back down by hand, but anytime I drive, it pops back off and just dangles on the piston rod. I've called Bilstein, after 3 days of deliberations they told me they didn't know what the issue was and that if I have a problem I need to take it up with Toytec. These things have a lifetime warranty, so I'm trying to get Toytec to get me a replacement. The way Bilstein handled the issue is bush league as hell and my opinion of them has plummeted the last week or so. It was obvious they were not concerned about me, my problem, or my safety.





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post #1772 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:46 PM
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Thanks for the update. Issues like this are a big deal and need to be brought to the light. They are also enough for me to reconsider where my money goes
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post #1773 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urwrldn3d View Post
I made a dedicated thread about this, but figured I'd post briefly here too. One of my 6112's had the cap pop off within the first 100 miles. I'm able to snap it back down by hand, but anytime I drive, it pops back off and just dangles on the piston rod. I've called Bilstein, after 3 days of deliberations they told me they didn't know what the issue was and that if I have a problem I need to take it up with Toytec. These things have a lifetime warranty, so I'm trying to get Toytec to get me a replacement. The way Bilstein handled the issue is bush league as hell and my opinion of them has plummeted the last week or so. It was obvious they were not concerned about me, my problem, or my safety.



Ya this is the kind of stuff you want to hear that the company stood behind their product and took care of you. Howevef it sounds like this is not the case. It also makes me second guess dripping $600 on a set of struts if the manufacturer ismt going to stand behind it....

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post #1774 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by urwrldn3d View Post
I made a dedicated thread about this, but figured I'd post briefly here too. One of my 6112's had the cap pop off within the first 100 miles. I'm able to snap it back down by hand, but anytime I drive, it pops back off and just dangles on the piston rod. I've called Bilstein, after 3 days of deliberations they told me they didn't know what the issue was and that if I have a problem I need to take it up with Toytec. These things have a lifetime warranty, so I'm trying to get Toytec to get me a replacement. The way Bilstein handled the issue is bush league as hell and my opinion of them has plummeted the last week or so. It was obvious they were not concerned about me, my problem, or my safety.



Who assembled it?
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post #1775 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mrmachinist View Post
I have pretty much the same setup as you on my '13, minus the shims and I run a +3 shackle. I'm even running the same tires in that size.

Something is definitely not right. I would assume a UCA would help. I needed them without the shims. I bought the Tuff Country ball joint ones due to their affordability ($300ish). There are plenty of other options as for as those go.

My first alignment with a stock UCA was horrible. So I put the new UCA on and went to the same alignment guy (who most people recommend around here) and still got crap alignment wore my tires funky in 2k miles.

I went to an alignment shop that's pretty much all they do. No computer machines, old school. They did a great job. The truck drives better than factory. I love how my truck rides and drives. My moms husband has a '12 and he couldn't believe how my truck rides and handles being "lifted"

Now as far as your shake, I would think that would be tire balance related more than alignment. Also check to make sure every bolt is tight. The uneven wear on the tires are an issue that might not ever go away. Mine have gotten better but luckily I caught mine early. I rotate them about every 2500 miles in a modified x pattern. Cross the fronts to the back. And the backs straight to the front.

There is hope for your truck. Try some UCAs and a tire balance. Try to find an alignment shop that all the hot rod guys go to.

Hope that helps.
Thanks! I was hoping to avoid the extra costs of UCAs but seems it may be a requirement at this point if I am going to keep my truck. Pay once.....after all if this is going to wear tires out then the expense of replacing them more often will easily be more than the UCAs. Got a feeling the tires just need to be swapped out at this point, maybe I can get some tread wear warranty out of them to offset that cost. But don't want to do that until I figure out my suspension issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nowayout View Post
@firerover Do you have your stock wheels/tires that you can put back on to see of thats the issue?
I am still running the stock wheels but don't have the tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rruff View Post
Never accept shitty performance! Something was definitely *wrong* and you needed to get it fixed asap!

Show print out of your alignment specs. Where and how are the tires wearing? Most likely the brain dead shop never aligned it properly. Vibration could be bad tires, but you would have needed to get on that immediately. Could be poor balance also, or just the shit alignment.

You odds are pretty good you need UCAs for that much lift. Any would work. Or you can just reduce the lift to <2.5". You don't need more shims. Replace only tires that are effed up.
Thanks for the feedback. These guys are a good tire shop but think my install was probably a bit beyond their scope. Unfortunately, I am not sure that I have the copies of the alignments. Went looking for them the other day and not sure where I put them. As for balance, I know that the original shop has had issues with that too, blaming it on my stock wheels...not sure if that is a valid statement or not. I don't want to drop to 2.5, love the stance and tires fit in their perfect. I will check out the recommendations and see what works. If you have favorites (affordable and best of breed) in UCAs then I am open.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydeeds View Post
I pretty much agree with all of the above. The only part where I would question is the upper arms. It just depends on how much correction they provide. Meaning, the location of the upper ball joint is important. Matter of fact it's the only reason you're getting upper arms. By using an aftermarket upper which moves the factory ball joint towards the rear of the truck you are generating +caster from the upper, eliminating the need to 'split the difference' between camber and caster using the lower alignment cams.


With proper uppers you can get 3-4* of + caster 0 camber. And 1/8" in tow super easy. Without trying. Matter of fact here is the magic formula:

Lift 3"
Move upper ball joint back 2"
Toe in 1/8"
Factory alignment cams in stock position

=truck drives really awesome.

Total chaos arms move the upper ball joint back 2". Light racing moves it back 1". So do procomp. Not sure on others.
Thanks Keith. I have trusted your judgment before, just wish your shop was here so I could drop it off. That is my biggest problem is my lack of mechanical knowledge coupled with an unknown shop to rely on. If anyone in NC has a biz they recommend to work this out, let me know.

But to summarize your recommendation, I should go with that last setup (upper ball joint back 2", toe in 1/8" with stock align)?? Or does it need to be evaluated first before that is done? Also, Total Chaos are crazy expensive. Are they worth that amount or is there others just as good or that will do fine for a truck that is not taken off road except for some hunting?

Thanks,
G


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post #1776 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 06:47 AM
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Total chaos is the only brand that moves uniball back by 2"

That said. Spc moves it back 1". So it gets close. But everything doesn't just fall into place with them as it does with total chaos.

I can ship chaos for free.
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post #1777 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geno View Post
Who assembled it?
One of the master techs at my local Toyota dealer.


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Any comparisons to 6112/5160 and Toytec/Boss setup?
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post #1779 of 1844 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jmhuntandfish View Post
Any comparisons to 6112/5160 and Toytec/Boss setup?
I think the Boss is a 5100 shock with a threaded adjuster. The 6112 is a much bigger shock.

I wouldn't get the 5160 though due to the 90 day warranty. Just put 5100s on the back.


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post #1780 of 1844 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by crghou View Post
i installed my 6112's this weekend. Passenger side took me around 2 hours. Drivers i was able to knock out in an hour after i knew what i was doing. Pretty straight forward but here are a few comments and tips from jaja23's posting. Thanks for sharing as that helped me figure it out. Also i did the rear bushings and this was my process to install those.

6112 install
1) loosen wheel lugs and lift as high as possible on jack stands under frame rail. Remove wheels.
2) mark the location and loosen lca alignment cam nuts, but don't remove. It is easier to loosen from the nut end and you will need a breaker bar. 2 cam bolts you must remove from the bolt side, 2 camís have nuts that you can break. Look at them and you will be able to tell.
3) loosen the 4 mounting nuts on top of shock, but don't completely remove (do not loosen center nut). helps if you have a ratcheting wrench the back 2 nuts are a tight fit.
4) remove lower shock mount nut/bolt. Breaker bar likely needed.
5) remove sway bar link bolt that connects to lca. Breaker bar likely needed. i removed the sway bar from the truck frame not the lca. I had issues with the sway bar binding so had to take the entire thing off.
6) remove the two bolts the connect lca to bottom of spindle (not the crown nut with the pin). Be careful, the lca may swing down and the hub assembly may go up.
7) remove the 4 nuts mentioned in step 3.
8) shock is now free. Lift hub assembly up and back to make room to get shock out.
9) use a long pry bar to pry lca down and insert new shock. Once the top of the shock is through the mounting holes, finger tighten the 4 mounting nuts on the top of the shock. It may be difficult to get the bottom shock in. Be careful with wires and brake lines.
10) insert lower shock mounting bolt and hand tighten nut.
11)re-install sway bar after both sides are done see 14.
12) reattach lca to spindle. This takes some effort to get lined up. Start with rear bolt. use a bottle jack under the lca to help lift the lca to re-attach the upper arm.
13) snug all nuts/bolts then torque when tires are back on the ground and truck is bearing weight.
14) do other side of truck then re-attach the sway bar with the truck sitting on the ground level.

4 upper nuts = 33 ft lbs
1 lower shock bolt = 144 ft lbs



Ĺ poly bushings:
1. Jack up the back of the truck on both sides, support with jack stands and chock the front.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the spare tire
4. Support rear axle with jack under the pumpkin
5. Break loose the shackles both top and bottom bolt. The bolts are pressed in, removes as an assembly.
6. I used a bottle jack between the leaf spring and frame to take pressure off the rear shackle. I guess i didnít have the truck up enough to allow it to droop on its own.
7. Remove shackle
8. Pry out bushing. If you use a metal or pvc-t and Ĺ piece of all thread ensure your washers will go through. I was able to use lowes Ĺ washers on 1 side but had to use 3/8 on the other and drill the hole out to fit my Ĺ piece of all thread. The factory bushings came out really easy. 90k miles but no salt in houston. I was able to use a 1-1/2 pvc t as well. My hardware stores didnít have black pipe 1-1/2 tís.
9. Press in new bushing
10. Re-assemble shackle

rear spring bolt = 77 ft lbs

i got the torque specs out of the suspension-pdf so please check yourself as i could be wrong.
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post #1781 of 1844 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaj23 View Post
@Gotink

The 6112 has a 600lb spring rate. They will work fine with a heavy bumper unless you are doing heavy off-roading (such as jumping)

How much lift do you want? What kind of off-roading do you do and how often?.

6112s are designed for the casual off-roader that doesn't want to break the bank, but still wants to hit the trails with enthusiasm. They provide a nice dependable ride on and off road. However, you can't do custom valving with 6112s.

Look at Kings if you need more adjustability.
I called Bilstein, they said they are shipping with 650lb springs!
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post #1782 of 1844 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by crghou View Post
I installed my 6112's this weekend. Passenger side took me around 2 hours. Drivers I was able to knock out in an hour after I knew what I was doing. Pretty straight forward but here are a few comments and tips from Jaja23's posting. Thanks for sharing as that helped me figure it out. Also I did the rear bushings and this was my process to install those.

6112 install
1) Loosen wheel lugs and lift as high as possible on jack stands under frame rail. Remove wheels.
2) Mark the location and loosen LCA alignment cam nuts, but don't remove. It is easier to loosen from the nut end and you will need a breaker bar. 2 cam bolts you must remove from the Bolt side, 2 camís have nuts that you can break. Look at them and you will be able to tell.
3) Loosen the 4 mounting nuts on top of shock, but don't completely remove (do not loosen center nut). Helps if you have a ratcheting wrench the back 2 nuts are a tight fit.
4) Remove lower shock mount nut/bolt. Breaker bar likely needed.
5) Remove sway bar link bolt that connects to LCA. Breaker bar likely needed. I removed the sway bar from the truck frame not the LCA. I had issues with the sway bar binding so had to take the entire thing off.
6) Remove the two bolts the connect LCA to bottom of spindle (not the crown nut with the pin). Be careful, the LCA may swing down and the hub assembly may go up.
7) Remove the 4 nuts mentioned in step 3.
8) Shock is now free. Lift hub assembly up and back to make room to get shock out.
9) Use a long pry bar to pry LCA down and insert new shock. Once the top of the shock is through the mounting holes, finger tighten the 4 mounting nuts on the top of the shock. It may be difficult to get the bottom shock in. Be careful with wires and brake lines.
10) Insert lower shock mounting bolt and hand tighten nut.
11)re-install sway bar after both sides are done see 14.
12) Reattach LCA to spindle. This takes some effort to get lined up. Start with rear bolt. Use a bottle jack under the LCA to help lift the LCA to re-attach the upper arm.
13) Snug all nuts/bolts then torque when tires are back on the ground and truck is bearing weight.
14) Do other side of truck then re-attach the sway bar with the truck sitting on the ground level.

4 upper nuts = 33 ft lbs
1 lower shock bolt = 144 ft lbs



Ĺ poly bushings:
1. Jack up the back of the truck on both sides, support with jack stands and chock the front.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the spare tire
4. Support rear axle with jack under the pumpkin
5. Break loose the shackles both top and bottom bolt. The bolts are pressed in, removes as an assembly.
6. I used a bottle jack between the leaf spring and frame to take pressure off the rear shackle. I guess I didnít have the truck up enough to allow it to droop on its own.
7. Remove shackle
8. Pry out bushing. If you use a metal or PVC-T and Ĺ piece of all thread ensure your washers will go through. I was able to use Lowes Ĺ washers on 1 side but had to use 3/8 on the other and drill the hole out to fit my Ĺ piece of all thread. The factory bushings came out really easy. 90k miles but no salt in Houston. I was able to use a 1-1/2 PVC T as well. My hardware stores didnít have black pipe 1-1/2 Tís.
9. Press in new bushing
10. Re-assemble shackle

Rear spring bolt = 77 ft lbs

I got the torque specs out of the suspension-PDF so please check yourself as I could be wrong.
used you write thanks,,, I sent you a PM
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post #1783 of 1844 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:22 PM
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post #1784 of 1844 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crghou View Post
i installed my 6112's this weekend. Passenger side took me around 2 hours. Drivers i was able to knock out in an hour after i knew what i was doing. Pretty straight forward but here are a few comments and tips from jaja23's posting. Thanks for sharing as that helped me figure it out. Also i did the rear bushings and this was my process to install those.

6112 install
1) loosen wheel lugs and lift as high as possible on jack stands under frame rail. Remove wheels.
2) mark the location and loosen lca alignment cam nuts, but don't remove. It is easier to loosen from the nut end and you will need a breaker bar. 2 cam bolts you must remove from the bolt side, 2 camís have nuts that you can break. Look at them and you will be able to tell.
3) loosen the 4 mounting nuts on top of shock, but don't completely remove (do not loosen center nut). helps if you have a ratcheting wrench the back 2 nuts are a tight fit.
4) remove lower shock mount nut/bolt. Breaker bar likely needed.
5) remove sway bar link bolt that connects to lca. Breaker bar likely needed. i removed the sway bar from the truck frame not the lca. I had issues with the sway bar binding so had to take the entire thing off.
6) remove the two bolts the connect lca to bottom of spindle (not the crown nut with the pin). Be careful, the lca may swing down and the hub assembly may go up.
7) remove the 4 nuts mentioned in step 3.
8) shock is now free. Lift hub assembly up and back to make room to get shock out.
9) use a long pry bar to pry lca down and insert new shock. Once the top of the shock is through the mounting holes, finger tighten the 4 mounting nuts on the top of the shock. It may be difficult to get the bottom shock in. Be careful with wires and brake lines.
10) insert lower shock mounting bolt and hand tighten nut.
11)re-install sway bar after both sides are done see 14.
12) reattach lca to spindle. This takes some effort to get lined up. Start with rear bolt. use a bottle jack under the lca to help lift the lca to re-attach the upper arm.
13) snug all nuts/bolts then torque when tires are back on the ground and truck is bearing weight.
14) do other side of truck then re-attach the sway bar with the truck sitting on the ground level.

4 upper nuts = 33 ft lbs
1 lower shock bolt = 144 ft lbs



Ĺ poly bushings:
1. Jack up the back of the truck on both sides, support with jack stands and chock the front.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the spare tire
4. Support rear axle with jack under the pumpkin
5. Break loose the shackles both top and bottom bolt. The bolts are pressed in, removes as an assembly.
6. I used a bottle jack between the leaf spring and frame to take pressure off the rear shackle. I guess i didnít have the truck up enough to allow it to droop on its own.
7. Remove shackle
8. Pry out bushing. If you use a metal or pvc-t and Ĺ piece of all thread ensure your washers will go through. I was able to use lowes Ĺ washers on 1 side but had to use 3/8 on the other and drill the hole out to fit my Ĺ piece of all thread. The factory bushings came out really easy. 90k miles but no salt in houston. I was able to use a 1-1/2 pvc t as well. My hardware stores didnít have black pipe 1-1/2 tís.
9. Press in new bushing
10. Re-assemble shackle

rear spring bolt = 77 ft lbs

i got the torque specs out of the suspension-pdf so please check yourself as i could be wrong.


sent pm, thanks
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post #1785 of 1844 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 04:03 PM
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Thanks for the info geno!

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Last edited by Natedog; 06-14-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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