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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Help!! 2017 Tundra Platinum Dead!!

Situation: Today 23 Aug 2019 my 2017 Tundra Platinum(17K mi) is died out blue (Drove around town this morning w/o any issues)! Will only start with a jump, but shuts off as soon as jumper cables are disconnected.

Background: Just had my final Toyota Care service performed on 17 Aug 2019 and I added a switch blade key programming to this service appt. When the truck was returned to me my Amp Rails were not functioning. The dealer was clueless and told me to just drive around and they would resset. Also told me that the mechanic had to unplug the OBD plug for my AMP rail from under the dash to program the key. I ended up discovering that he bent one of the connector pins plugging it back in. I straightened out the pin and was back in business.

Assessment: I thought maybe my AMP rails were pulling power, but I've diconnected them completely and I still get the same result. Truck shuts off as soon as it is diconnected from jumper cables.

Reccommendation: I'm clueless! Any ideas?

'17 Tundra Crewmax Platinum
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Amp Research Step Rails
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cmryals View Post
Situation: Today 23 Aug 2019 my 2017 Tundra Platinum(17K mi) is died out blue (Drove around town this morning w/o any issues)! Will only start with a jump, but shuts off as soon as jumper cables are disconnected.

Background: Just had my final Toyota Care service performed on 17 Aug 2019 and I added a switch blade key programming to this service appt. When the truck was returned to me my Amp Rails were not functioning. The dealer was clueless and told me to just drive around and they would resset. Also told me that the mechanic had to unplug the OBD plug for my AMP rail from under the dash to program the key. I ended up discovering that he bent one of the connector pins plugging it back in. I straightened out the pin and was back in business.

Assessment: I thought maybe my AMP rails were pulling power, but I've diconnected them completely and I still get the same result. Truck shuts off as soon as it is diconnected from jumper cables.

Reccommendation: I'm clueless! Any ideas?


I would give suggestions, but it's a 2017 and should be under warranty, let the dealer deal with it.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:02 PM
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My guess is a problem with the battery. Have them put in a fresh battery and I'll bet all is back to normal. The factory batteries are prone to premature failure. I'm picking up a Northstar tomorrow.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azblue View Post
I would give suggestions, but it's a 2017 and should be under warranty, let the dealer deal with it.
That's the plan, but I was hoping to drive it there and not have it towed.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZBoatHauler View Post
My guess is a problem with the battery. Have them put in a fresh battery and I'll bet all is back to normal. The factory batteries are prone to premature failure. I'm picking up a Northstar tomorrow.
Hoping it's as simple as this.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:33 PM
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Hoping it's as simple as this.
It probably is. Here in AZ the heat kills batteries and I've had a few that die so completely (and instantly) that they can't even hold enough of a charge to keep the engine and say the lights going at the same time, even though the alternator was fine and putting out juice.


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Azblue View Post
It probably is. Here in AZ the heat kills batteries and I've had a few that die so completely (and instantly) that they can't even hold enough of a charge to keep the engine and say the lights going at the same time, even though the alternator was fine and putting out juice.
Exactly what happened with my wife's 2016 Highlander and since it was still under warranty (expired just 4 days later) Toyota paid for the tow and new battery.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:48 AM
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My 17 is bone stock. About 2 months ago I had friends from out of state in town and they wanted to see an alligator. I drove them to our local wildlife area and found a nice alligator for them to look at. When we jumped back in the truck, nothing. The dome lights would come on and go off. The dash lights would flicker and go out. Called a friend and it took a long time to even jump start it. Replace the battery and its been perfect ever since. I have 40k miles so I was on my own.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Took the battery up to Auto Zone this morning. Just got a call that the tried to charge the battery twice and they cannot get it to charge. Going to buy a Duralast Platinum and hope that completely fixes everything. Hoping my alternator is dead too.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:00 PM
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Make sure the battery terminal connections are thoroughly cleaned.
Corrosion likes to sit inside the clamp and is hard to see unless you really look for it.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Got the new battery, truck started right up. Drove over to Auto Zone to have the guy do further checks. His meter kept saying "Voltage regulator failed" but he also admitted he wasn't familiar with the truck or the info in was seeing. On my drive home I noticed I was now driving a "Hybrid Tundra" because my Distance to Empty in the gauge cluster said 610 miles.... lol (and its still reflecting over 600).

I also noticed my driver-side window Auto Up/Down was not functioning and the little blue light one the switch was blinking. When I got home I called the dealer I purchased the truck from and the service guy explained how to reset the auto window switch and offered a new "free" battery, but I would have had to go back and get the old battery, put it in the truck and have the truck towed to the other end of town. That just wasn't worth the time to me. So right now everything seems back in order aside from the 600 miles to empty on the dash....lol.

'17 Tundra Crewmax Platinum
Super White
Amp Research Step Rails
Color Match Mirror Caps/Handles
2018 LED Headlights/Foglights
BedRug ** Coming Soon***
Leer 550 Color Match Tonneau **Coming Soon**
TRD Rear Sway Bar **ComingSoon**
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 07:21 AM
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Glad it seems to be fixed. The 600 miles to empty is because you reset the computer when the battery died. Once you put a tank of gas through it the distance to empty should get a little closer to reality.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:30 AM
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What's an AMP rail for goodness sakes ?

Extreme audio equipment ?

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 08:57 AM
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AMP makes powered running boards. Side steps. Rail is a weird word to use for them, for sure.
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