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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Possible broken valve spring

Truck has a really strange intermitting problem. Sometimes when I give it gas to pass someone the RPM's hang between 3000 and 4000 rpm's and there is no increase in speed. So I let off, then I hear a thud. If I try to just hold it the check engine light starts flashing and the truck starts shuddering. I have also had it happen a few times with a head wind or going up hill on the freeway. I have had the codes pulled it always shows random misfires and bank 1 and 2 lean. I took it to the dealer and they have no clue. They are guessing that it's a broken valve spring but are not sure. What would the symptoms of a broken valve spring be? The reason I ask is because the dealer could not explain to me why they think it is a broken valve spring. The tech took a snap shot with tech stream and sent it to Toyota engineer's.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:43 AM
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I would think a broken valve spring is a broken valve spring, it would be consistent Iím sure


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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I would think a broken valve spring is a broken valve spring, it would be consistent I’m sure


That's what I was thinking also. But just wanting to get other peoples thoughts.

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Originally Posted by maybe View Post
...I have had the codes pulled it always shows random misfires and bank 1 and 2 lean. I took it to the dealer and they have no clue. They are guessing that it's a broken valve spring but are not sure. What would the symptoms of a broken valve spring be?...
My opinion is that the primary symptom of a broken valve spring would be a misfiring cylinder. All those other symptoms you describe could be secondary effects, but the misfire would always be there, and have significantly greater impact on engine performance as throttle position is increased. That could explain the symptom you call "shuddering".

You say you have pulled the codes and they indicate random misfiring cylinders. I'm not a Toyota tech, but if you have a misfire code from a broken valve spring, it should ALWAYS be for the same, or at least predominantly the same cylinder, not random...unless there is some other secondary effect I don't understand. There is a misfire code for each cylinder which identifies which cylinder is misfiring. If it's a broken valve spring, then your misfire code should remain constant and identify the cylinder. There may be other collateral codes that result from the misfire.


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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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You say you have pulled the codes and they indicate random misfiring cylinders. I'm not a Toyota tech, but if you have a misfire code from a broken valve spring, it should ALWAYS be for the same cylinder, not random...unless there is some other secondary effect I don't understand. There is a misfire code for each cylinder which identifies which cylinder is misfiring. If it's a broken valve spring, then your misfire code should remain constant and identify the cylinder. There may be other collateral codes that result from the misfire.


I will give you a little more history on it. About 3 weeks ago is when it gave me problems with all the symptoms I described above. I had the codes pulled P0302, and the lean codes on bank1 and bank2. I swapped cylinder 2 coil with cylinder 1 coil and disconnected the battery. Everything was fine for about 1200 miles. Then I had the exact same problems, so I had the codes pulled again to see if the misfire moved. That is when it showed P0300, P0301, P0302 and the lean codes for bank1 and bank2. So that's when I took it to the dealer.

Sorry about the confusion in my first post. Right now it is running perfectly fine. So that is why I don't understand how it could be a broken valve spring.

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My first thought is fuel starvation. Either batch of bad gas, a clogged fuel filter, or dirty injectors.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 02:26 PM
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My first thought is fuel starvation. Either batch of bad gas, a clogged fuel filter, or dirty injectors.
My guess as well. As previously stated, a mechanical failure such as a broken valve spring would be a: VERY evident, and b: show symptoms only for that cylinder.

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I also think it’s a fuel issue. I would throw a fuel pump at it and see what happens.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. If the fuel pressure checked out okay would that rule out the fuel pump?

2014 1794 CM, Bilstein 6112's top setting, 1 CB shim per side, 5160's rear with +3 CB shackles, Zone upper control arms, 1.25 Bora wheel spacers, Stock wheels, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 295/60/20, AMP Research steps.
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I've never thought about that before, but I am inclined to believe NOT.It may not be conclusive. If the fuel flow is being restricted, it may flow enough to have full pressure at idle, but not be enough flow to maintain full pressure under load like heavy acceleration. But...that thinking may make no sense in the real world of fuel pumps.

Maybe if you run the engine speed up during fuel pressure test, you'll get a definitive answer.


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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe View Post
Thanks everyone. If the fuel pressure checked out okay would that rule out the fuel pump?
Hey man, curious if you're seeing this issue over multiple tanks of fuel or not?

Not sure on the validity of the fuel pump test, is there a way to test it under load? I'm not an expert in that area, but I imagine idle fuel pressure and under load are two different things.

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Thanks everyone. If the fuel pressure checked out okay would that rule out the fuel pump?


Sometimes electrical components act up at the weirdest times. But mostly under load where they heat up and then they start failing quickly. If you had a way to watch the fuel pressure in the cab and when it cut out, and it didnít drop, that would
Be a good way to know itís not the fuel pump. Not sure how to do that without costing some money. It does seem like you would get a low fuel pressure code though surely


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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 06:45 PM
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Curious, where was the last tank of fuel fill up from? Was it a brand name Tier 1 or Mom and Pop corner station? Current Winter fuel blends arent the best to use. To rule out bad gas, burn up what you have and run Chevron or Shell Supreme for a fresh tank and see what happens..?
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Originally Posted by riccnick View Post
Hey man, curious if you're seeing this issue over multiple tanks of fuel or not?

Not sure on the validity of the fuel pump test, is there a way to test it under load? I'm not an expert in that area, but I imagine idle fuel pressure and under load are two different things.

Yes I am having this issue over multiple tanks of fuel. It does not matter if itís a quarter tank or full tank.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jbroas View Post
Curious, where was the last tank of fuel fill up from? Was it a brand name Tier 1 or Mom and Pop corner station? Current Winter fuel blends arent the best to use. To rule out bad gas, burn up what you have and run Chevron or Shell Supreme for a fresh tank and see what happens..?

Thanks for your input.
I always use Tier 1 fuel. I never fill up at mom and pop stations. I have tried what you mentioned. Still have the same problem.

2014 1794 CM, Bilstein 6112's top setting, 1 CB shim per side, 5160's rear with +3 CB shackles, Zone upper control arms, 1.25 Bora wheel spacers, Stock wheels, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 295/60/20, AMP Research steps.
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