2008 5.7 timing chain tensioner replacement - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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2008 5.7 timing chain tensioner replacement

My timing chain tensioner is starting to make more noise lately. Its getting to that time to replace it. I tried searching for a dyi or something close but couldn't find anything. Can someone shoot me in the right direction? I'm a heavy duty diesel mechanic so I can turn a wrench but I've never done anything engine wise on my tundra.
I've seen pics of the front cover off. Does the chain need to be pulled off to replace the tensioner? I wouldn't think it would have to. If it does can you mark the chaing and the pullies so you don't have to time anything? While I'm doing it should I do the chain guides and anything else? Is there a kit that I could buy? I'd appreciate all the help I can get. TIA!

2008 Arctic White Crew Max Limited 2wd
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:45 PM
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Since you are a tech, I’ll just give you basic instructions.
Remove radiator, valve covers, unbolt all accessories off the front, remove timing cover.
There are 4 tensioners there, the one that I’ve always seen fail is the primary chain tensioner on the driver side.
You can confirm that is the one by removing the oil filler tube and looking inside to see if the plunger on the tensioner is flopping back and forth.
You can just replace the failed tensioner, nothing else really goes wrong with that system otherwise as far as guides etc.
If you are concerned, replace whatever parts you desire.
The chain does not need to come off, so no worries about timing it.
There is no kit for that job, just all the gaskets for whatever you take off.
It’s around a 2 day job, and not easy on your back, but it’s doable.

2010 RCSB ([email protected]) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ViktorG View Post
Since you are a tech, Iíll just give you basic instructions.
Remove radiator, valve covers, unbolt all accessories off the front, remove timing cover.
There are 4 tensioners there, the one that Iíve always seen fail is the primary chain tensioner on the driver side.
You can confirm that is the one by removing the oil filler tube and looking inside to see if the plunger on the tensioner is flopping back and forth.
You can just replace the failed tensioner, nothing else really goes wrong with that system otherwise as far as guides etc.
If you are concerned, replace whatever parts you desire.
The chain does not need to come off, so no worries about timing it.
There is no kit for that job, just all the gaskets for whatever you take off.
Itís around a 2 day job, and not easy on your back, but itís doable.


I thought my notifications were turned on but not. Thank you very much for your reply back! Im going to have to take a better look to see which gaskets ill have to order. Do you use oem gaskets or aftermarket?

2008 Arctic White Crew Max Limited 2wd
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by phillie View Post
Im going to have to take a better look to see which gaskets ill have to order. Do you use oem gaskets or aftermarket?
You'll need valve cover gaskets, front crank seal, spark plug tube seals, water bypass pipe gaskets, 8 oil feed o-rings that go under the valve covers, 2 o-rings for the oil pump inlet and outlet.
Might as well replace the water pump and gasket while you are in there and throw in some new spark plugs and a drive belt as well, I might be forgetting something.

I always use OEM gaskets.

2010 RCSB ([email protected]) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ViktorG View Post
You'll need valve cover gaskets, front crank seal, spark plug tube seals, water bypass pipe gaskets, 8 oil feed o-rings that go under the valve covers, 2 o-rings for the oil pump inlet and outlet.
Might as well replace the water pump and gasket while you are in there and throw in some new spark plugs and a drive belt as well, I might be forgetting something.

I always use OEM gaskets.
Thank you again. The waterpump has been replaced in the last 15k miles. I just can't believe I have to do this at 106k miles. Hopefully I won't have to many more problems after this. I'll keep this thread updated with some pics once I get started on it.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Started on taking the front end apart to replace the timing chain tensioner. Then the rain came. I guess ill start back on it tomorrow.






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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:12 PM
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Looks like your on your way to success


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like your on your way to success
Thank you. I didn't get to finish it up. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get back to it.

ViktorG is it possible to take the front cover off with out having to to take off the valve covers? Maybe they can be loosened up to move high enough to clear the front cover when taking it off?

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 01:01 AM
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Removing the valve covers is one of the simplest parts of the job in my opinion.
It might be possible to remove the timing cover with them still on, but I would just spend the 15 minutes to take them off and make my life easier.

2010 RCSB ([email protected]) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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2008 5.7 timing chain tensioner replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by ViktorG View Post
Removing the valve covers is one of the simplest parts of the job in my opinion.
It might be possible to remove the timing cover with them still on, but I would just spend the 15 minutes to take them off and make my life easier.


The left side was pretty easy. The right side took some effort with all the coolant lines. I got some time today to do some more work on it. The cover is ready to come off so im going to make it a stopping point and continue on it tomorrow morning.





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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 07:24 PM
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Like the cardboard diagram for the hardware.
Great idea.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 03:13 AM
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Like the cardboard diagram for the hardware.
Great idea.
^^^^ I second that


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.08 TRD 5.7L 4x4 DC Supercharged -Innovate boost / .AFR motorsports gauges. ASP pulley. SABM air box mod .with high flow filter. Spoolin Shift Kit.
.OBX longtube 2 1/2'' headers, flowing into Dirtdeeds cat delete. X pipe with full race exhaust & simulator.
.TRD rear sway bar
.Tundra racing lowering kit 2-4 drop with Calvert adjustable race shocks.
.22'' TRD forged performance wheels.
.TRD big brake kit with TRD performance brake pa
.Escort Passport 9500ix
BlendMount radar detector mirror mount w/hardwire kit
.ABS2 Fuse mod
& a few more tricks up my sleeve.
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