Am I able to fix code P2440? - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Am I able to fix code P2440?

Hey everybody,

I have a 2007 Tundra 4.7. In 2015 at 125k miles, I had code P2442 with flashing dash lights and limp mode, so Toyota fixed that under warranty. The description from toyota.com on my order says:

INSPECT AND RPLC AIR INJECTION SYSTEM ~|~CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON, 4LO AND VSC LIGHTS FLASHING ~|~POL11-05 ~|~125711 CODE P2442 REPLACED BANK 1 AIR PUMP AND AIR VALVES, CLEARED CODES.

UPDATE ECM SOFTWARE AND INSTALL UPDATE LABEL ~|~UPDATE ECM SOFTWARE AND INSTALL UPDATE LABEL ~|~ ~|~125711 UPDATED ECM WITH SMART STOP

Fast forward 2019 at 170k miles, dashboard lights flashing and limp mode again with stuck valve code P2440. With the ECM software upgrade they did in 2015, will any of the bypass kits work? What are my options?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 08:55 AM
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 02:50 PM
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I just put that bypass on my 2008 4.7l...service history showed it was done around 90,000 mile under warranty but at 174,000 miles there was no way they were going to do it again under warranty.

Installed the bypass, made sure all the codes were cleared and it looks good so far.

The first time I got the code I pulled the valves off and cleaned them. That only lasted about 8,000 miles and six months.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to follow back up and say that I got the bypass kit from https://hewitt-tech.com/store/ and it took about 2 hours to install. Beforehand, I called them to inquire and ask some technical questions and they were very helpful and explained everything.

The bypass kit allowed my truck to crank up and run like normal. I'm back on the road now!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 10:43 AM
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Just did the same thing on my 2012 with 86k miles, Thanks to Hewitt Tech for the product!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 05:35 PM
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How did you clean the valves? Compressed air? Did you take them off and disassemble them?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17FLHTK View Post
I just put that bypass on my 2008 4.7l...service history showed it was done around 90,000 mile under warranty but at 174,000 miles there was no way they were going to do it again under warranty.

Installed the bypass, made sure all the codes were cleared and it looks good so far.

The first time I got the code I pulled the valves off and cleaned them. That only lasted about 8,000 miles and six months.
How did you clean the valves? Compressed air? Did you take them off and disassemble them?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 07:43 PM
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You have to take them off and dry them out. Better off buying the bypass and not wasting your time messing with something that may not be fixable or will break again shortly.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ffemt300 View Post
How did you clean the valves? Compressed air? Did you take them off and disassemble them?
I took them off and soaked them with PB Blaster made sure the actual valve piece was moving freely. The bypass is probably the better option as cleaning them doesn't seem to last very long.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:11 AM
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Hey everyone. Really great information here. My 2007 has been doing it off and on for a while. When you install the bypass kit do the lights still come on and flash even though the vehicle is running better? Driving down the interstate pushing 3100 RPMs at 65 MPH isn't fun, especially when others are passing you like you're sitting still.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:46 AM
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If you install the kit and clear all the codes those particular codes should not return. The vehicle runs like crap because it is in limp mode in response to the codes.

I have gotten a couple different codes and lights since the install that I haven't completely sorted out yet but they do not throw it into limp mode and clear pretty easily. They are P011B: Engine Coolant Temperature/Intake Air Temperature Correlation and C1201: Check report for description. I have gotten these same 2 codes a couple times since the bypass install and it think each time the outside temperature was quite high in the upper 80s and 90s.

I have found information that maybe a coolant sensor needs replaced to stop this or just waiting around 5 seconds before starting the truck with the key in run will fix this issue. Searches turned up a few different ideas about these codes after bypass.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 04:05 PM
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The lights will stay out if you disconnect the battery and let it reset it self. Also finding where the blocker plates go takes a couple minutes. Hewitt is the way to go.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 08:36 PM
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Just picked up my 07 5.7L SR5 DC this summer. Has 107k on it and was in great shape. The previous owner had kept up the maintenance pretty well. The truck had a CEL when I got it for the SAI. It has the bypass on it already. Cleared the code and it drove great until last week. While leaving one morning all the lights came on and it went into limp mode. Upon scanning it it was the P2440 code. I cleared it and it was fine until today. Can't get it to start cleared. Comes back on almost immediately. I checked all the connections to the bypass. Is it possible it itself went bad?
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