I see, if i were to use the two person method my same question applies, when they push the pedal and it starts getting closer to the ground do I keep having them pump the brakes for a good 20-30 pumps to get more fluid out?
If you are "pumping" the brakes during the bleeding process, that is incorrect technique and that IS the reason you're having problems.
As shown in the two person bleeding video provided by
, each bleed cycle is a single pedal application with communication between the bleeder and the pedal operator. Simple commands, such as "Down" and "Up", can be used by the bleed person to instruct the pedal operator on the action to be taken.
A "Down" command from the bleed person means for the pedal operator to apply pressure to the pedal. As the pedal operator holds pressure on the brake pedal, the bleed person will loosen the caliper bleeder valve. When the bleeder valve is opened, fluid and possibly air will be ejected from the valve, and the pedal inside will immediately fall to the floor unless the bleed valve is just cracked slightly open. The pedal should be held to the floor by the pedal operator and not released until the bleed person instructs him to do so. If the pedal is released BEFORE the bleed valve is closed, air WILL be drawn back into the system.
With the pedal on the floor, the person bleeding then tightens the bleed valve, and instructs the pedal operator "Up", which literally means "Let the pedal UP off the floor". Repeat the cycle as many times as necessary to replace all the old fluid in the brake line to that wheel. As the video said...check the reservoir level frequently; if you allow air to be sucked in through the MC, then you start over as they said. Repeat this process on each wheel.
I have read the recommendations for not allowing the pedal to go all the way to the floor, and I can only say that coordinating that objective between bleeder and pedal operator will be next to impossible with the help I can find. With skill and experience, the bleeder person can probably just crack the bleed valve slightly open, expel a little fluid and then tighten it before the pedal gets to the floor. Otherwise, you'll be better off to figure out how much stroke is appropriate (Huh...that'll be tricky), then jerry-rig a device to physically limit pedal travel to that amount. Personally, after a life time of bleeding brakes, I've never experienced any problems from allowing a brake pedal to travel fully to the floor.
Since the Tundra has antilock brakes, forgetting to maintain the fluid level in the MC reservoir and allowing air to be pumped into the antilock brake controller may render the simple bleeding process that would have worked before
no longer effective. If you bleed the system properly and still have a soft pedal, THEN the Tundra Service Repair Manual indicates that you can fix that problem with a TechStream bleeding process.