2010 5.7 - Oil Leak Weirdness (Rear Main?) - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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2010 5.7 - Oil Leak Weirdness (Rear Main?)

Hey guys, I am still new here but already ran into a potential problem with my 2010 5.7 Tundra with 126k miles on it.
Bought it used in January from a reputable dealership.
I drive it about 1-2 times a week for about 100 miles each day so 100-200 miles total per week. No issues after bringing it home and running it to work most of the first week to get the feel of it, no leaks.
A little over 2 weeks ago I noticed a tiny oil spot in the gravel where I park it, no big deal - was not worried about it.
Last week the spot was bigger and I noticed a spot where it sits at work. Spot is bigger. Check the oil and the oil level (dead cold after sitting overnight) is about 1 half inch over the top of the full mark on the dipstick. Still not too worried.
Uhh okay......
Drive it to work yesterday and notice another spot on the ground where I parked it and I can follow oil drops from where I turned around.
Get home and crawl under - oil drops at the weep hole on the bell housing. Wipe down and watch to see where oil comes from. Very slowly I can see an oil line forming at the seam between the engine and bell housing with the oil drops ending up right beside the weep hole. Oil does not appear to be coming out the weep hole.
Check the dip stick, engine is still warm, dip stick reads 3/4 or so near the full mark and is getting fuller. Assuming it will be closer to full when it all settles down and the engine cools down.

What in the hell is going on lol From reading here it seems the suspects are upper oil pan or rear main seal - neither of which I have the space/ability to fix so it will have to go to a garage/dealer.
Is there some other simple thing it could be? Dealership overfilled it before selling and it is blowing out the surplus? PCV clogged and upped the pressure too much and blew something out?
Just in case you were wondering - it was bought used, so no warranty and I am not dropping a thousand on a truck that I have not even made a payment on yet, so the thing will sit for a while if this is a serious issue. Also only mods I have made was a K&N "cold air" filter kit (I know, I know, they are useless).
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 07:17 PM
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could be? Dealership overfilled it before selling and it is blowing out the surplus?
No

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Originally Posted by swampy02 View Post
PCV clogged and upped the pressure too much and blew something out?
I doubt it.

I'd say it is the rear main from your description.
Did the truck come with any sort of multi-point inspection?
If it's only been 2 months, maybe the dealer will help you out.

2010 RCSB ([email protected] on NOS) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, A1000 FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction, NOS
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Checked oil tonight - sitting at just over 3/4 on dip stick.

Appreciate the response. I called my local mechanic and he is fine to do the main seal or upper oil pan if it is that. Failing that, it will be the dealership. I am pretty sure that I signed off on the as-is line at the dealership (plus the dealer is about 2 hours away), so I am doubtful I will get much help. Nice dealership but not sure how far that will extend.

Something odd that may or may not mean anything.
I went and checked my stock air system that is sitting in my basement. I ran the truck with the stock air system for a week or 2. Where I had it sitting in the basement, a bunch of yellow/orange/black sludge seeped out onto the floor from the flat section of the stock air system crank case vent hole on the stock air system. Is there supposed to be a bunch of sludge and crap going through that tube? Does excess oil blow out through there? If the truck was overfilled by the dealership would it end up there?
With the K&N system in - there is no flat area, for the oil blow by to spread out, so could somehow that have something to deal with pressure or somehow create an oil leak somewhere.
I did not notice any oil leaks until I installed the K&N system - could be coincidence since I am not sure that would do anything that could cause an oil leak of that much loss.

Last edited by swampy02; 03-06-2018 at 09:35 PM.
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Update for anyone that cares.
Pretty sure I bought a junker.
A mechanic (in the family, not my main mechanic) crawled under yesterday and looked around in some spots I couldn't see/reach or did not know to look.
Looks like oil at the back of both valve covers, one spot behind the drivers side valve cover you can actual feel the gasket sticking out far enough to flick it and move it around. If you take the wheels off and really get up in to look at cam towers on both sides, drives side rear is wet (could be from the leak directly above it). Passenger side front is just discolored far forward, not wet.
Oil still dripping coming down the seam between the bell housing and engine.
No oil in the large dime sized weep hole off to the side of the bell housing or the tiny hole at the bottom of the bell housing.
Yellow/white/orange tinged foam looking stuff all over the oil cap, fill tube, through the crank case vent lines.
Oil on dipstick is fine.
Coolant level is low at cold and full at operating temps.

(family) mechanic verdict - he feels the oil is coming from the leaks at the back of the valve covers and going down the bell housing. Potentially the truck was not run for a while before it was traded and running it now has pushed oil out all over the place.
My main mechanic gets it this week to look it over. Expecting to have him replace the valve cover gaskets, fresh oil change, new PCV valve, toss some oil stop leak in just for good measure.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 08:50 PM
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do not use oil leak stop crap in your engine.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-12-2018, 06:31 AM
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Sorry to hear of your troubles.

Did you see this thread? https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tun...ak-thread.html

And there are a number of other ones. Hopefully you can work something out with the dealer.

Was it an official Toyota dealership?

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 09:07 AM
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If it still leaks oil from the transmission/rear area have your mechanic also reseal the rear main seal retainer plate as well.

I did a rear main seal on a 4x4 tundra and did not reseal the retainer plate, didn't LOOK like it was leaking from there, and the truck came back 2 months later. Lesson learned. LOL

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Update:
Just keeps getting better.

My main mechanic with the help of a mirror and light found that the valve covers are leaking (as we found last weekend) but the cam towers are REALLY leaking down the back of the block hence the lack of burning oil smell. Add them together and you get the large amount of oil loss. At this rate I would not be shocked if the rear main was leaking too. I don't even care anymore.

Mechanic is doing some research before he gives me a price but he is not too worried about doing it.
If he does it, I am going to get him to do both sides and check EVERYTHING he sees in there. If there is so much as a spark plug that looks worn, replace it.
Call in to Toyota dealership where we bought it but when we bought it there was no warranty it was "as-is" and it is way out of the Toyota warranty (2010 with 126k miles), plus the dealership we bought it at is 2+ hours away. I am not driving up there for them to tell me that it will cost 3k. I am expecting no help. I crawled under this thing when we bought it - there was no sign of a leak anywhere, I would have seen the leak at the back of the valve cover. Dang it.

Bought a Toyota to avoid all this ridiculousness. Traded an extremely unreliable F150 for a leaky Tundra-bucket.
If I did not think it would lead to a divorce, I would have driven directly from my mechanic to the local Chevy dealer and traded it in today.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 12:32 PM
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Bought a Toyota to avoid all this ridiculousness.
If you want vehicle that doesn't have any problems, you don't buy a high mileage 8 year old truck, no matter what make it is.

2010 RCSB ([email protected] on NOS) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, A1000 FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction, NOS
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 08:24 AM
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Update:
Just keeps getting better.

My main mechanic with the help of a mirror and light found that the valve covers are leaking (as we found last weekend) but the cam towers are REALLY leaking down the back of the block hence the lack of burning oil smell. Add them together and you get the large amount of oil loss. At this rate I would not be shocked if the rear main was leaking too. I don't even care anymore.

Mechanic is doing some research before he gives me a price but he is not too worried about doing it.
If he does it, I am going to get him to do both sides and check EVERYTHING he sees in there. If there is so much as a spark plug that looks worn, replace it.
Call in to Toyota dealership where we bought it but when we bought it there was no warranty it was "as-is" and it is way out of the Toyota warranty (2010 with 126k miles), plus the dealership we bought it at is 2+ hours away. I am not driving up there for them to tell me that it will cost 3k. I am expecting no help. I crawled under this thing when we bought it - there was no sign of a leak anywhere, I would have seen the leak at the back of the valve cover. Dang it.

Bought a Toyota to avoid all this ridiculousness. Traded an extremely unreliable F150 for a leaky Tundra-bucket.
If I did not think it would lead to a divorce, I would have driven directly from my mechanic to the local Chevy dealer and traded it in today.
If he does do the camshaft cradle/tower reseal make sure he uses toyota's Fixed In Place Gasket(FIPG), great stuff. P/N 00295-00103

I have ex-toyota mechanics keep bumming tubes off of me every so often.

Good thing is once you've done the reseal it should be good to go for as long as you own it.

Going on 3 years of doing my reseal of cam cradles and timing cover.

Be a fountain, not a drain

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the input guys. As soon as the mechanic gets back to me, I will drop it off with him and hopefully we can get it all resolved.


Any idea on how many tubes of the FIPG you would need to do both sides?
I am gathering up any of the "specialized" stuff that my mechanic might need.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 08:46 AM
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Appreciate the input guys. As soon as the mechanic gets back to me, I will drop it off with him and hopefully we can get it all resolved.


Any idea on how many tubes of the FIPG you would need to do both sides?
I am gathering up any of the "specialized" stuff that my mechanic might need.
2 tubes to be safe.

I usually use 1.5 when doing both cradles and timing cover.

I'm generous when applying sealant. lol

Be a fountain, not a drain

Call sign: Glitter
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