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post #61 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 12:45 PM
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Well, smoke coming out from under the hood did it for me. I did both sides myself this weekend. Not hard if you're mechanically experienced, but it's definitely tedious, and without a decent assortment of specialty tools, and the odd second pair of hands, it's a pain to do in a reasonable amount of time.

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post #62 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, smoke coming out from under the hood did it for me. I did both sides myself this weekend. Not hard if you're mechanically experienced, but it's definitely tedious, and without a decent assortment of specialty tools, and the odd second pair of hands, it's a pain to do in a reasonable amount of time.
Whoa whoa whoa, Toyota has my truck for 4 days and you did it in a weekend? Lol, you can’t leave us hanging here. I’m pretty mechanically inclined and between my father and I have plenty of tools but still would never think of doing this job myself due to the timing issues that could arise without the proper Toyota documentation explaining how the cam gears function and torque specs and how they should be mounted. Aren’t there also a ton of gaskets and seals you need for the front of the engine when reassembling everything? You take pics or anything throughout the process?

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post #63 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I have not seen that video and it’s great. That guy did it without removing the intake manifold, a/c lines and front of the engine like they did with mine! If I had proper torque specs for everything I would probably attempt it myself as well. There’s one part of it I’m unsure of and that’s what he seems to be tightening in the area of the rockers and valve springs before he puts the tower back on and it would have also been nice to see where he put sealant. But thanks for posting @homeyclaus

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post #64 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 05:17 PM
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I took some:

Tundra Camshaft Carrier Re-Seal

I can't speak for Toyota techs and the time they take. If I had had more practice (I used to wrench for a living, but generally don't tear into vehicles like this very often), this ought to be 6 or 7 hour job with the right tools and a spare pair of hands when you need them. First time, at a friend's shop where I had no clue where any of the cool tools were, totally solo, yeah, 19 hours.

There is no need to rip the front of the engine off, nor rip the whole top off it. If you drop the timing chain, yeah, the chain cover needs to come off, which means everything bolted to the front and side of the engine comes off. But aside from a couple of oil gallery o-rings, the front main seal, there aren't a lot of parts needed. Mainly a RTV sealant that doesn't degrade like the stuff Toyota put on the engine.

Just think, VW/Audi has this fetish of putting the timing chains at the rear of the engine, so if you need to pull the heads, you're pulling the engine unless you do this. Book time, of course, you're paying for those hours whether they do it or not, but it's lower risk if you don't.

Torque specs are in the Haynes manual, as well as the screen shot of the FSM I posted above.

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Last edited by homeyclaus; 05-06-2019 at 05:24 PM.
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post #65 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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I took some:

Tundra Camshaft Carrier Re-Seal

I can't speak for Toyota techs and the time they take. If I had had more practice (I used to wrench for a living, but generally don't tear into vehicles like this very often), this ought to be 6 or 7 hour job with the right tools and a spare pair of hands when you need them. First time, at a friend's shop where I had no clue where any of the cool tools were, totally solo, yeah, 19 hours.

There is no need to rip the front of the engine off, nor rip the whole top off it. If you drop the timing chain, yeah, the chain cover needs to come off, which means everything bolted to the front and side of the engine comes off. But aside from a couple of oil gallery o-rings, the front main seal, there aren't a lot of parts needed. Mainly a RTV sealant that doesn't degrade like the stuff Toyota put on the engine.

Just think, VW/Audi has this fetish of putting the timing chains at the rear of the engine, so if you need to pull the heads, you're pulling the engine unless you do this. Book time, of course, you're paying for those hours whether they do it or not, but it's lower risk if you don't.

Torque specs are in the Haynes manual, as well as the screen shot of the FSM I posted above.
Ahh, just looked at your pics. The a/c lines DID have to come off...that sucks. I’ll check your pic above for the torque specs

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post #66 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 09:15 AM
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Ahh, just looked at your pics. The a/c lines DID have to come off...that sucks. I’ll check your pic above for the torque specs
AC lines stayed in place. Radiator hoses, fan, and shroud came out to make working space.

Torque spec for the cam carrier to cylinder head bolts is 22 ft-lbs, tightened from the center out along the center row, and then alternating from the center between the upper and lower rows.

RTV sealant officially goes on as one 4 mm bead all the way around the outside of the cylinder head mating surface and up on the side of the timing chain cover, looping around the bolt holes. No voodoo at all. Prep surfaces as one normally would. On the cam shaft cover, a dollop of RTV where the timing chain cover and cam shaft carrier meet. I had trouble with the rubber gaskets staying put during installation, so the corners got a drop of RTV here and there to hold it in place.

Total cost:

13.99 Permatex Black RTV Pressure can
7.99 Viktor Reinz cam cover gasket set
11.98 2 (two) Toyota OE figure-8 o-rings
8.99 6 (six) Miller light tall cans
11.99 6 (six) DC Brau IPA cans
0.00 27 impatient text messages from mrs homeyclaus
0.00 five phone calls from mrs homeyclaus, 3 of which weren't answered because I was under the hood

You need two smaller and one bigger O-ring per side too, I used generic EPDM ones, but of course Toyota will happily sell you the same for $6 a piece.

If you're DIY'ing it, you do need to mentally prepare yourself to pull the timing chain cover, and either have parts on hand for it, or do this when the parts stores stocking those parts are open. If you drop something in behind it, accidentally release the tensioner with no chain to hold it, or drop the chains, it's what you'll be doing.

By the video it looked like the chain tensioners are captured, unlike VW which pop out, but I'd never assume they are. And when you mount the intake cam phaser, it's easier to seat the timing chain on the tensioner guide beforehand. Once each side is done, give the engine two rotations to make sure some valve isn't going to hit a piston.

Having done it once, I'd do these for 11 hours book time ($2200) plus parts all day long. And most certainly over any money having to work on a VW VR6 in a Eurovan. And the burning oil smell is finally starting to fade. Hallelujah.

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post #67 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:37 AM
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I give props to homeyclaus. I have replaced a head gasket in a Nissan Sentra and replaced a timing chain + sprockets in my 1986 Toyota 22RE motor. I used to zip tie the timing chain to the hood to keep it on the crankshaft sprocket. This is not a job I could just whip out in weekend nor would I want to. Maybe if I had the factory service manual. You said there is a Haynes manual for that engine? I didn't know that but thanks for sharing. Since you can't buy the Toyota manuals anymore maybe I should switch to Haynes if the specs are good. I have the 4.6L motor with fixed leaks the dealer repaired. 14,000 miles and no leak yet. V8 would suck to work on. You get to run RTV not once but twice!
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post #68 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by homeyclaus View Post
AC lines stayed in place. Radiator hoses, fan, and shroud came out to make working space.

Torque spec for the cam carrier to cylinder head bolts is 22 ft-lbs, tightened from the center out along the center row, and then alternating from the center between the upper and lower rows.

RTV sealant officially goes on as one 4 mm bead all the way around the outside of the cylinder head mating surface and up on the side of the timing chain cover, looping around the bolt holes. No voodoo at all. Prep surfaces as one normally would. On the cam shaft cover, a dollop of RTV where the timing chain cover and cam shaft carrier meet. I had trouble with the rubber gaskets staying put during installation, so the corners got a drop of RTV here and there to hold it in place.

Total cost:

13.99 Permatex Black RTV Pressure can
7.99 Viktor Reinz cam cover gasket set
11.98 2 (two) Toyota OE figure-8 o-rings
8.99 6 (six) Miller light tall cans
11.99 6 (six) DC Brau IPA cans
0.00 27 impatient text messages from mrs homeyclaus
0.00 five phone calls from mrs homeyclaus, 3 of which weren't answered because I was under the hood

You need two smaller and one bigger O-ring per side too, I used generic EPDM ones, but of course Toyota will happily sell you the same for $6 a piece.

If you're DIY'ing it, you do need to mentally prepare yourself to pull the timing chain cover, and either have parts on hand for it, or do this when the parts stores stocking those parts are open. If you drop something in behind it, accidentally release the tensioner with no chain to hold it, or drop the chains, it's what you'll be doing.

By the video it looked like the chain tensioners are captured, unlike VW which pop out, but I'd never assume they are. And when you mount the intake cam phaser, it's easier to seat the timing chain on the tensioner guide beforehand. Once each side is done, give the engine two rotations to make sure some valve isn't going to hit a piston.

Having done it once, I'd do these for 11 hours book time ($2200) plus parts all day long. And most certainly over any money having to work on a VW VR6 in a Eurovan. And the burning oil smell is finally starting to fade. Hallelujah.
What are the 2 lines disconnected on the firewall over the passenger side tower? I thought those were a/c lines

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post #69 of 81 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 04:00 PM
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What are the 2 lines disconnected on the firewall over the passenger side tower? I thought those were a/c lines
Those are the heater lines, they carry coolant (aka anti-freeze, same stuff that's in the radiator) to the heater core. AC lines are on the driver's side and hold about 140 psi of pressurized refrigerant. Popping those is no bueno.

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After going back and forth with Toyota Corp, the local dealer and the BBB, Toyota will not offer any assistance for the repair - Went to two different independents for quotes, both claim they can't do it for what the original dealer quoted me. Went to a different dealer, they beat the original quote and they gave me a huge discount to replace the water pump at the same time. Truck is going in on Monday for both sides to be resealed, plugs, OLF and new Water Pump - It's a costly repair but with only 135k miles, I can no longer stand the smell of burnt oil, or the sight of smoke after a hard drive.
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post #71 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:22 PM
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Well... Much like most of you, my 2012 Tundra Platinum has the cam tower leak as well. I noticed oil on the valve cover at around 66k I cleaned it really well to start it over so I could see the source. About a month and a half ago, i got under it and could see the driver side cam tower leaking, the passenger side is starting to seep. That was at 67300 miles. I Work for a Chevy dealer and have always religiously done maintenance. But other than the transmission fluid service done by the Toyota dealer at 47,000 miles, I have taken care of all the others on my own (oil and differential fluids). It took a little over a month to get the toyota dealerships powers that be on the same page to look at the truck. currently at almost 70k when they finally looked at it and confirmed that it was leaking. My local dealership says that they are doing the repair for about 4500.00 + taxes. Which seems to be the most I have seen quoted. I have already started a case with Toyota and the dealership is reaching out to their DPSM to see if assistance is going to be given. The Service director there told me to maybe expect half if I am lucky, but I have seen so many other stories about people with more miles paying 100-500.00 or less. What do you guys think?
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post #72 of 81 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well... Much like most of you, my 2012 Tundra Platinum has the cam tower leak as well. I noticed oil on the valve cover at around 66k I cleaned it really well to start it over so I could see the source. About a month and a half ago, i got under it and could see the driver side cam tower leaking, the passenger side is starting to seep. That was at 67300 miles. I Work for a Chevy dealer and have always religiously done maintenance. But other than the transmission fluid service done by the Toyota dealer at 47,000 miles, I have taken care of all the others on my own (oil and differential fluids). It took a little over a month to get the toyota dealerships powers that be on the same page to look at the truck. currently at almost 70k when they finally looked at it and confirmed that it was leaking. My local dealership says that they are doing the repair for about 4500.00 + taxes. Which seems to be the most I have seen quoted. I have already started a case with Toyota and the dealership is reaching out to their DPSM to see if assistance is going to be given. The Service director there told me to maybe expect half if I am lucky, but I have seen so many other stories about people with more miles paying 100-500.00 or less. What do you guys think?
Sounds like what I was quoted originally by my dealer but then after I spoke to an “honest service advisor” at another dealer, he told me that Toyota wasn’t paying as much anymore for them and it was down to about 2800$ now

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[QUOTE=GR8White;9450902]Sounds like what I was quoted originally by my dealer but then after I spoke to an “honest service advisor” at another dealer, he told me that Toyota wasn’t paying as much anymore for them and it was down to about 2800$ now[/QUOT

the key word there is TOYOTA. The dealer is trying to flag 30 hours on the job customer pay, If Toyota gets involved, then the job drops down to warranty time which is significantly less. I originally heard that it was a 26 hour job flag time which means Toyota is probably paying 16-18 hours for both sides. There are 13 Toyotas in my immediate family, the least expensive of the group being a Rav4. 5 tundras alone in that number. I would be lying if I said that I was happy about how Toyota is handling this up front.
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[quote=Krazyjhawk;9450906]
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Sounds like what I was quoted originally by my dealer but then after I spoke to an “honest service advisor” at another dealer, he told me that Toyota wasn’t paying as much anymore for them and it was down to about 2800$ now[/QUOT

the key word there is TOYOTA. The dealer is trying to flag 30 hours on the job customer pay, If Toyota gets involved, then the job drops down to warranty time which is significantly less. I originally heard that it was a 26 hour job flag time which means Toyota is probably paying 16-18 hours for both sides. There are 13 Toyotas in my immediate family, the least expensive of the group being a Rav4. 5 tundras alone in that number. I would be lying if I said that I was happy about how Toyota is handling this up front.
I would suggest checking the other Tundras in your family and seeing if they’re leaking too and have that as ammunition

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[quote=GR8White;9450930]
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I would suggest checking the other Tundras in your family and seeing if they’re leaking too and have that as ammunition
Only one of them is local LOL. Trust me after all of this, I have let them all know what to look for, but I am the only car guy in the family other than my dad (who worked for toyota corporate for almost 40 years) There are 5 total Tundras 2 Sequoias and a Land Cruiser in our family all with that same engine. I imagine I will be looking at them all as i see them for holidays and normal visits.
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