Air pump bypass kit installed still in limp mode - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Air pump bypass kit installed still in limp mode

Hoping I can get some ideas here of where to go next with this. I had the recall work done on the air pumps and 2 years later they have failed again causing a p2433 code and limp mode. Installed the block off plates and bypass module and it's still in limp mode. Tried to have the codes cleared and nothing. Drove for a little bit and it went out of limp mode for a little bit then back in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 12:05 PM
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I believe once the reflash is done to the ecm the by pass will not work. I could be wrong though.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 03:31 PM
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My reading leads me to believe the same. The old flash only ran the truck from a cold start for ~30 seconds. It measured the intake air temperature to determine how cold it is outside. The bypass limited the low range, or flat out changed the intake temp to read a set number (I don't have one). But when the warranty work is done they reflash the ECU to run the pumps EVERY time the engine starts, regardless of what the temperature is. Temperature-trick-bypass won't work.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Just left toyota dealer that did work and talked to tech that did my truck and said he did not flash it. What now??

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 01:42 PM
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Replacement of the secondary air injection components was a warranty enhancement and did not require a reflash as part of the procedure however there was a limited service campaign D0A and special service campaign F0A that was just the reflash. If either of those were done then it has the updated calibration. You can ask the dealer to run your vin to see if there are any open recalls or specifically if the D0A or F0A were done.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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That ran all service on it and nothing shows for any of this being done. I'm ready to pull my hair out!!! Could the module possibly be bad? Idk just trying to eliminate any possibility. If I decide to fix pumps does anyone have recommendations on where to buy and what exactly will all need be replaced? Pumps, valves etc...

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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*they

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 02:29 PM
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Code P2433 is for the air pressure sensor and is not a code that will set when the pumps fail. The sensor is mounted directly on top of the switching valve and since I have never installed a by pass kit I do not know if the air switching valves are eliminated. I would hold off on replacing the pumps until you figure out exactly what is supposed to happen with the pressure sensor reading after the by pass kit is installed. Hopefully someone that has done one will chime in.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 02:31 PM
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Did you have the same code before you put they by pass kit in?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ok great. Hope someone has some more info as well. Thank you

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Did you have the same code before you put they by pass kit in?
The first time it started going into limp mode I ordered the kit. I just hooked module up and all was good for a while but, check engine light came back on and it was still good for quite awhile even with light on. After almost a year it started going in and out of limp mode once in awhile then just recently was stuck and not coming out. So I tried to put the cut off plates in to see if that fixed the issue with no luck other than a couple times it came out of limp mode for maybe 30 secs. Then right back. I never read the codes until after I put the plates in which was 2 days ago.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 03:35 PM
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So I did a little reading about the kits and it seems it still uses the pressure sensors so I'm thinking maybe there is a broken or chewed wire. A scan tool would be helpful at this point to check the voltage for the sensors. If it's fixed over 4.5 volts then it's probably an open in the wiring or sensor itself.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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So I did a little reading about the kits and it seems it still uses the pressure sensors so I'm thinking maybe there is a broken or chewed wire. A scan tool would be helpful at this point to check the voltage for the sensors. If it's fixed over 4.5 volts then it's probably an open in the wiring or sensor itself.
Excuse me for my ignorance but, what wires would I check? I'm pretty mechanically inclined but, I'm not the one that would be doing the work. My buddy will be who is a damn good mechanic. He is super busy so I'm trying to gather all info. I can myself. I would hate to order new valves and have him replace them and not fix the problem. I really appreciate all of your help

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 06:28 PM
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Excuse me for my ignorance but, what wires would I check? I'm pretty mechanically inclined but, I'm not the one that would be doing the work. My buddy will be who is a damn good mechanic. He is super busy so I'm trying to gather all info. I can myself. I would hate to order new valves and have him replace them and not fix the problem. I really appreciate all of your help

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It's no problem I'm happy to help any way I can. Just let me know what year and engine we're dealing with and I can get you all the diagnostic info you need.
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