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Old 05-16-2018, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
BRX
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Originally Posted by Furyataurus2.0 View Post
So what are you going to do with the trd 22" wheels???

Anything wrong with pauter rods or just wanted to go with carrillo rods because you went with carrillo pistons?
Nothing wrong with Pauter rods, but compared to the Carrillo H beams they're weaker. Dynosty contacted CP/Carrillo and they recommend this setup for 1000HP.

I have the wheels at home, might switch back when I get bored from the Enkeis or put them on the Sequoia.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 05-21-2018, 10:10 AM
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How much for pistons and rod kit???

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Old 05-21-2018, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Furyataurus2.0 View Post
How much for pistons and rod kit???
Around $3000 not sure. Contact Dynosty for a quote.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 05-27-2018, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Ever since I got the truck here in the UAE I've been battling with high coolant temps. The first thing I did was install a lower temp thermostat (160F vs 200F OEM) which helped considerably. I would be able to maintain 165F to 185F at night depending on driving conditions.

Unfortunately, it would still eventually reach over 205F if driven in +95F weather and with the AC on it would reach close to 210F. Turns out I had too much freon in the AC system which created a lot of heat in the condenser. Lowered the freon and temps dropped to 200F at noon.

I almost had no high temps after that except when I went into boost or let the truck idle for over 15 minutes. If my coolant temp was 185F it would shoot to over 205F in a few seconds under boost. (See first video)

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b0a429e...214835_479.mp4

So what I did was remove the 2 16" spal fans and their shroud. They have served me well since 2012 but they simply restrict airflow at anything above 50mph.

I went with a Bosch fan out of a Mercedes that has an 850 watt or a little over 1hp motor. This single fan is able to flow over 5000 cfm. With much less of a shroud, I could see the engine through the grill now. I had much improved cooling above 50mph. Cruising at noon in 105F degree weather I had no problem maintaining coolant temps of around 185F.





At wide open throttle it has improved significantly, temps are cooler before going WOT resulting in cooler temps overall and as soon as I let off it would drop down to the initial temp in a matter of seconds. (See second video)

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b0a4487...144016_370.mp4

Now only one issue remains. I let the truck run for 45 minutes at noon (100F) with AC on. I came out and coolant temp was almost 205F. Which isn't overheating per say but still means my cooling system isn't capable of dropping temps at a stop. Taking it for a quick 5 minute drive dropped temps to 190F. This is not due to the smaller shroud as it was still doing the same with the spal fans setup.

I'm thinking with twin turbos both heating up the oil and with my oil cooler being separated from my radiator unlike stock with no fan or airflow, my guess is that the oil temp gets extremely hot at a stop. My next plan is to add a fan to my huge Setrab oil cooler. Probably one of the two spal fans I took off. I know I can do better because my friend with a single turbo is running the factory oil cooling system and is able to maintain sub 170 degrees in traffic with the same koyo radiator, electric fan and shroud. I will try to add an oil temp sensor as well if I have any room for additional sensors on the Haltech.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Last edited by BRX; 05-27-2018 at 02:19 AM.
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BRX View Post
The first thing I did was install a lower temp thermostat (160F vs 200F OEM) which helped considerably.
BRX, could you please provide a part number for the low temp thermostat, I've been looking around and can't find one. Thanks!

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Unfortunately, it would still eventually reach over 205F if driven in +95F weather and with the AC on it would reach close to 210F. Turns out I had too much freon in the AC system which created a lot of heat in the condenser. Lowered the freon and temps dropped to 200F at noon.
Are you still using the Killer Chiller with your new air to water intercooler?

2010 RCSB ([email protected] on NOS) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction, NOS
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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BRX, could you please provide a part number for the low temp thermostat, I've been looking around and can't find one. Thanks!



Are you still using the Killer Chiller with your new air to water intercooler?
A friend has them and he doesn't disclose where he gets them but I can get him to ship one to you. Send me a PM and we can work something out.

And yes, killer chiller is still hooked up to my water to air intercooler. With the AC on, coolant temps rise about 5 degC but air intake temps drop 25-30 degC.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 05-28-2018, 12:05 PM
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A friend has them and he doesn't disclose where he gets them but I can get him to ship one to you. Send me a PM and we can work something out.
PM sent.

2010 RCSB ([email protected] on NOS) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction, NOS
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:39 AM
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What Oil brand and weight are you using? (My single Turbo heats up the Mobil1 0w-40 that I'm using and at 2K it's pretty black already so I been changing it between 2-3K intervals..)
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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What Oil brand and weight are you using? (My single Turbo heats up the Mobil1 0w-40 that I'm using and at 2K it's pretty black already so I been changing it between 2-3K intervals..)
Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 07-05-2018, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BRX View Post
Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

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looks great !! when running the different size tires do you have any issues with the truck shutting down ? and what is your truck running trans temp ? this NOS set up Dynosty did for me is really Cool .. and one last thing can i get one of those stats to lower my cooling temps as well ?
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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looks great !! when running the different size tires do you have any issues with the truck shutting down ? and what is your truck running trans temp ? this NOS set up Dynosty did for me is really Cool .. and one last thing can i get one of those stats to lower my cooling temps as well ?
No issue with running different size tires at all.

Trans temp is between 185-230 depending how hard I drive it and the ambient temperature.

PM for the thermostat with your address and everything and I can get one shipped out for you.

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 07-18-2018, 10:04 AM
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No issue with running different size tires at all.

Trans temp is between 185-230 depending how hard I drive it and the ambient temperature.

PM for the thermostat with your address and everything and I can get one shipped out for you.

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Old 09-04-2018, 07:38 AM
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Schaeffer Micron Moly Racing Oil 20W-50. That's what Dynosty used and what I kept using. The Micron Moly helps with E85 moisture that gets trapped in the engine.

I change oil roughly every 3500 km (2000 miles). Twice so far.

Running a turbo, the oil gets cooked rather quickly. Dynosty had an HKS turbo timer installed that would keep the oil pump running for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. Even then my oil looks pretty dark after 2k miles.

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How is your truck doing? Hope it works fine with you.

isn't 20W50 a less viscous than 10W30 or 0w40?

I am still trying to figure out what is the best oil weight for tundras with forced induction engines.

Flex Fuel 2016 | Edition 1794 CM | TRD CAI | Valve body Mod | LT ARH | | 20" Method Roost wheels

2012 rcsb | TRD SC | 18" 41 series Procomp wheels| Valve body Mod | JBA Long tube headers | Airaid CAI | 2/4" SOSperformance LK | Caltracs TB
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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How is your truck doing? Hope it works fine with you.

isn't 20W50 a less viscous than 10W30 or 0w40?

I am still trying to figure out what is the best oil weight for tundras with forced induction engines.
Truck is doing fine. Almost 20,000 km (12,000 miles) on the odometer. I think I have done 5 oil changes so far, I lost count really lol. I try to do it every 3-4k or so.

I'm actually gonna switch to Mutol 10w60. Since it's easier to find here and saves me the shipping fee. The first number is the viscosity at low temps in winter when you first start the engine and the second one is at operation temp.

With it being a "race" engine with very loose tolerance that sees a lot of temps and the weather here would still be in the 90s even in winter, the higher the viscosity the better.

Toyota recommends 0w20 because it's easier to reach the top of the valvetrain even in cold conditions and provides better fuel economy. As long as there aren't loud ticking noises coming from the valvetrain you should be good.

Choose an oil viscosity depending on how much you push your engine and how cold it gets in the winter. If it gets to freezing temps I recommend getting something that starts with a 0w. If your live somewhere warm get a 5w or even a 10w. The second number I would go higher the more you beat on your truck and less valvetrain noise and lower for better fuel economy but not lower than 20. Some 0w20 like the one from mobil1 make the engine really noisy.

This is a good video showing oil viscosities at a very cold temp, probably below freezing

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'07 2WD RCSB 5.7L Tundra
TRD SC, Haltech EMS, ASP All Pulleys, Spoolin Shift Kit, Walbro 485 FP, ID1000cc Injectors, AIRAID CAI, Hayden Transmission Cooler, Ranger E-Fan
JBA Long Tube Headers, True-Dual 3" BAMufflers & Mid-pipes
TRD Sway Bar, Belltech 442SP, Caltracs Drag Profile Traction Bars
TRD Forged 22" W/ Hankook Ventus ST RH06, Pro Comp 16" W/ M&H Cheater Slicks

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Old 12-18-2018, 09:44 PM
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I'm still not done with this thing, not until it runs 9s.
Hey BRX, have you been back to the track again with this monster?
Also, do you run a transbrake or line lock of some sort or do you just brake hold it when launching?

2010 RCSB ([email protected] on NOS) - AWD conversion, Pauter rods, JE 8.5:1 pistons, Ti int & SS exh valves, Ti retainers, 5 angle valve job, P&P heads, TRD SC w/ 50mm pulley, ASP crank pulley, 84mm TB, SABM, IPT VB, JBA LTs, Killer Chiller, 1.25 Gal IC tank, Frozenboost 101 HE, IKH-24 plugs, 325 LPH AM FP, 2"/4" Belltech drop, weight reduction, NOS
2008 DCLB (331whp/336wtq) - AWD conversion, IS250 paddle shifters, 12" BP lift + 1" spacer + Toytec 3" shackles + 4" blocks, Airlift bags, 17" MotoMetals with 37x12.5 Coopers + 3" spacers, ARB frt bumper, KC 8" lights, flares, LEER canopy
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