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Tundra Performance Modifications, what works, what doesn't....and why

216K views 275 replies 102 participants last post by  Youngfrankenstein 
#1 · (Edited)
Since http://www.dirtydeedsindustries.comspecializes in making maximum power on a Toyota tundra. I thought it would be helpful for everyone if I started this thread:)

I briefly looked in the performance section on this forum and have come to the conclusion that we need a log of credible information as to what works and what doesn't for the newbies. As many of you know, I have tested a ton of performance modifications, and I have a lot of friends whom have done the same. I will attempt to break up each section alphabetically just to keep the info as organized as possible. I'm going to edit and grow this first post with new info as the mod is tested. I will also point out where I received the feedback on the test, or if it was my own feedback. I welcome your questions/comments. I also welcome your donations, meaning if you have a part or system that you want tested, feel free to send it to me and I'll test it in the way that you request if at all possible:

All track testing is done at the same track (unless otherwise specified) with similar conditions since Qualcomm stadium night time temps don't vary enough to matter. All dyno tests were performed on the same dyno operated by the same guy (unless otherwise specified), and all stock trucks came in with very close to the same hp as the others (unless otherwise specified). Very consistent.

Cold Air Intakes No first hand testing has been done. I have worked closely with a friend (Jbroas) testing a custom 4" cold air intake. This testing realized a gain at the track, no dyno testing done. I will try to get specifics from JBroas and post here. If anyone wants a cold air intake tested feel free to send one. From the feedback received by Jbroas and his testing at the track I tend to stay away from cold air intakes as they try to fool the ecu into leaning out the afr and pulling less timing. Either way the gains are very limited. All in theory and I'd love to do more testing. Testing was done with various combinations on a crewmax 2wd at Qualcomm stadium.

Electric Fan We make a bolt on electric fan for the Tundra's. The results are better throttle response, better low end torque. More fun to drive. It's definitely noticeable. No dyno testing has been done, but other members have dyno tested electric fans and have seen small gains. Definitely a mod worth doing!!

Exhaust I will not report findings on competitor systems as I would seem biased to some people in doing so, I don't feel that it would be professional. All tests were done with stock air box, and stock filter that is far from being dirty enough to necessitate changing(unless otherwise specified). All other aspects of the trucks have been tested bone stock unless otherwise specified.

Bone stock hp tends to be around 316-319 hp on this dyno. Bone stock 1/8mile times tend to be 10 sec flat at Qualcomm stadium.This is with a crewmax 4X4 5.7L raced in 4H (unless otherwise specified).

Editing in this combination on 11/29/13:
Stock manifolds, true dual BAmufflers with H pipe, custom 4" cold air intake, electric fan, 2wd 07 crewmax running drag radials. We removed the rear cats and saw absolutely no gains in e/t. Sound however, was increased. In this case that was not a good thing as the owner of this truck wanted the quietest sound we could achieve, he was willing to put up with a little more sound if there was power to be had in doing so. None was realized.

Here is some of the combinations that I have tried:
Stock manifolds/cats. This combination is very limited. It is difficult to make power by changing up the parts after the stock manifolds/cats. Matter of fact, if you change too much stuff you will actually start to lose since the stock system is so 'engineered' to work as a whole. The stock manifolds/cats work best with the stock tailpipe. The stock muffler is the most restrictive part of the exhaust system and replacing it for a free flowing muffler or straight pipes is good for about 3-10 hp depending on the day and temps, etc. This system knocks 1/10th off our 1/8 mile time.

OBX Headers, no cats, BAmuffler true dual 2.5" with X pipe and TRD tailpipes. This combo is good for 41HP over stock. Driveability is substantially enhanced. You don't ask yourself if you feel the power....."well I think I feel more power", you tell all your friends that your truck is way faster!! This system took the truck from 10 sec. flat to 9.7 seconds. I did not test afr with this combo, but am sure that it was fine based on testing done with more aggressive systems.

JBA headers, no cats, BAmuffler true dual 3" with X pipe and BAmufflers custom tailpipes exiting behind each rear tire at a 45* angle and slash cut. The gains realized from the OBX headers and the same BAmuffler system in 2.5" are realized once again, and then some!! The combo is good for 49HP over stock!! 89LB TQ over stock!! It makes the truck run a very consistent 9.3 seconds in the 1/8 mile!! This system brings the afr to 12.5/1 at full throttle, literally perfect;)

Nitrous All testing has been done with JBA long tube headers, BAmufflers true dual 3" with X pipe, and BAmufflers custom tailpipes exiting behind each rear tire at a 45* angle and slash cut. All testing was done with a Nitrous express mainline wet kit, with the fuel side of the system deleted making the system a dry system using a 50hp jet. I will post pics asap. All you have to do is push the nozzle thru the stock air filter, zip tie it to the plastic ribs in the filter, and seal it using a glue gun. You'll want to point the nozzle away from the mass air meter. Doing so takes afr from 12.5/1 at full throttle down to 11.5/1 at full throttle. I have not tested it on the dyno and probably never will. But, extensive testing has been done at the track. The truck consistently ran 9.3 with the JBA/BA exhaust, the dry nitrous brings that very truck down to a consistent 9.1!!

Supercharger Edited an update to 'Supercharger' 3/29/14
Just to sumarize, Bone stock HP comes in around 319. Installing long tube headers bumps HP to 368. Installing a Supercharger bumps HP to 445. Downloading the BullyDog tune on top of the supercharger causes HP to jump to 534!! All HP figures are the same dyno, same dyno operator. And generally the same conditions since Escondido is usually pretty temperate throughout the year. Notice the driveline loss between bone stock and Supercharged. These engines, bone stock, are rated by Toyota at 381 HP to the crank, our test truck lays down 319 to the wheels. And supercharged Toyota rates em at 504 HP to the crank, our test truck puts out 445 to the rear wheels. In both stock naturally/aspirated, and stock/ supercharged there is a loss of about 60 HP thru the driveline.

So far I've only dyno tested this modificaiton, I will hopefully have e/t's to report on the supercharger by itself and with the BullyDog 93 tune!!!

Tuners I've tested Hypertech and Bully Dog. I've tested various configurations. From bone stock to full race exhaust, and will be testing with a supercharger. Stay tuned.

Hypertech tested on a bone stock 07-09 with touchy throttle is transformed into a normal/performance throttle instead of the ultra sensitive stock throttle. Throttle response, low end, mid range, better. Feels more performance oriented and decisive. Transmission doesn't 'shift around' as much. It literally re-tunes the truck to drive nicer. On the dyno a stock Tundra shows an extra 7hp!! While this figure is somewhat optimistic, there is no loss during any of our testing. Given this fact and the better driveability, ,the Hypertech is a great option, especially for the price.

The Hypertech was also tested on a truck with JBA long tubes, BAmufflers true dual 3" with X pipe, and BAmufflers custom tailpipes. The a/f ratio ran 13.3/1 at full throttle. While most tuners would say that is 'safe' I'm more comfortable with 12.5/1 on a naturally aspirated Long Tube headers exhaust. No dyno testing was done given the afr, and there was no noticeable difference in power. The truck did feel more responsive and seemed to drive better, but testing was limited given the afr.

BullyDog tested with JBA long tube headers, BAmufflers true dual 3" with X pipe, and BAmufflers custom tailpipes exiting behind each rear tire at a 45* angle and slash cut. Tune set at Trail tune, Performance shift, Performance throttle, Speed unlimited. The result is better throttle response, noticeably more low end, noticeably more mid range, at 3000 rpm the throttle blade opens up abruptly making the truck feel like a turbo just spooled up. The transmission hunts for gears much less. It shifts much firmer. It's much more decisive and faster shifting. It doesn't down shift as abruptly when decelerating. You don't have to hold down the throttle as hard to maintain 65mph on the highway. Simply put, it enhances the way that truck drives in a very positive way. HP goes from 368 to 375 peak. Unfortunately this doesn't translate into any gains at the track, but with the positive change in driveability it is well worth the price. AFR is actually slightly fatter than stock tune bringing it from 12.5/1 to 12.2/1.

Turbo All testing has been done on a 5.7L crewmax 2wd. I will compile more specific info as I have time to ask Jbroas specifics. This system is a Spoolin' kit using stock tune, and some testing was done with TRD supercharger tune. We did a ton of the redesign and experiments in house. Stay tuned, I believe with a stock tune HP was 399 to the rear wheels!!
 
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#161 ·
@restosud
The short answer is yes.
The pump works against a closed pressurized sytem, to overcome will consume up to 10 hp or so.
 
#163 ·
hmmmmm!
according to my limited underwhelming knowledge of fluid dynamics ,the only thing the increased pressure will do is slightly increase the seal pressure on the pump shaft(negligible) and maybe even create a bit more drag on the impeller as the chance of cavitation is lessened assuming it cavitates to begin with.
keep in mind the pressure is on both the intake and the discharge side of pump.
 
#162 ·
Who has traction bars on their S/C tundra and where did you get them?

Also who has the TRD sway bar on their truck? Is it worth having? Does it effect the stree drive ability or ride?

Thanks
 
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#165 ·
#173 ·
The shift kit isn't something that I offer, because if it works, anyone can do it for just the cost of transmission fluid and tranny assembly goop:)

You just turn the valve in the valve body to increase line pressure, then put washers between the springs and the accumulator. This will increase spring rate by applying a little more preload on the springs.

Same thing as IPT, only anyone can do it for free. I just haven't had time to try it out. Any volunteers? Please post results here:)
 
#175 ·
Well that looks like a real clean and low profile kit. Great Job. :) This country has a porn filter. If they new how much joy I got this it be on the list. :D I am guess you have a core in the lower brackets?

As for Your shift kit ideas You think that it is save with BD. When I asked them about custom tuning They said November have you Heard any thing? Might just have been trying to make me happy after the 3 hr install.
 
#178 ·
#187 ·
Is Deaver's the brand or what it is? Sorry, this is something I have never messed with.
 
#188 ·
Thx for specifying.

Deavers is a popular brand of off road leaf springs offered for our trucks. They're very soft and allow a guy to haul azz thru whoops of shocks are correctly valved.


That said, if running deavers you will experience enough axle wrap that your u joints on your driveshaft actually bind. These traction bars fix that.
 
#189 ·
Wow, thanks for the info.. Will the traction bar even be a value with my setup? I love to get on it and get crazy, but I do not have a SC (would love to get one). I have a CAI, BD and TRD exhaust. And love to hit it off the line to mess with people. :)
 
#190 ·
Very good question. The answer is subjective.

Given your power level the need for traction bars is much less likely. But only you can answer that question. Do you get wheel hop on hard acceleration? If so, that's the result of axle wrap, and YES, you need a traction bar.

If not getting wheel hop/ axle wrap, then there really is no need for traction bars.
 
#195 ·
And this is why I should never have started modding in the first place!
 
#196 ·
Tell me about it!

This weekend my AF gauges are going in as well as a New Years present to myself, the TRD Big Brake Kit!

I have the power, I need the traction! DD, any update on the traction bars? I'm dying to go to the track but wanted to wait on those so I can get everything to the ground. Right now if I punch it I get pretty bad axle wrap/bed bounce so I have to ease into it.

Last dyno run was 545whp but we are still hitting the limiter in 4th at 120 even with the BD tuner set to unlimited.

I'm going to try what you said about pulling the absII fuse and see what happens.
 
#197 · (Edited)
Here's my latest and greatest and probably best/last Dyno run I'll do. I'm done with power modifications and now to get the power to the ground!

565WHP and 567WTQ were my final results!

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=772806446140426

Power Mods:
TRD Supercharger with URD pulley
JBA SS LT headers with mid pipes and URD simulators courtesy of Keith @ Dirty Deeds
TRD Dual exhaust
Bully Dog tuner set to 93 tune, performance shift, and speed limiter unlimited

Other Mods:
TRD Performance Handling Kit (2/4 drop) with Sequoia front sway bar
TRD BBK
TRD Oil and Radiator caps (Yeah, that was probably what pushed the most HP...)

And then a lot of other custom mods I have listed in my build thread.
 
#199 ·
Here's my latest and greatest and probably best/last Dyno run I'll do. I'm done with power modifications and now to get the power to the ground!

565WHP and 567WTQ ......
Man those numbers are Huge!! Way to go!!
My last two mods were the Auburn Pro LSD and Traction Bars.. (Keith sells those too BTW)... It definitely made the rear end act differently from the stock rear end, you'll be happy with those..
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#200 ·
Keith is actually manufacturing a custom set of BAMTracs right now for the TRD Performance kit that I have.

Since it's a different leaf spring he had to start from scratch. We've been sending measurements and pictures back and forth for a little while now. Hopefully he should be finished soon but definitely top notch service from the guys at Dirty Deeds!!!

As far as the Auburn, I am still a little trigger shy on it. I have read a few reviews on it when it comes to high HP (500+) going to it and since this is going to be a street-legal(ish) drag truck I wanted to make sure it can handle everything.

I do know the weak point now is in the rear end but I haven't seen anything with a big enough reputation and good enough ratings to make up my mind. I like to watch something for a while before I pull the trigger on it.

Off topic a little but what are everyone's opinions on line locks for the brakes?
 
#201 ·
Then consider the stronger ARB Air Locker. It's great for a straight run...
I don't recall anyone successful in the Line Lock mod. Our brake system is funky. Hopefully you'll figure it out!!
 
#205 ·
I was just asking about the stock SC fuel pump since you work there. I am trying to find out the max hp it can handle safely, mostly for others as I am not running it. I have called several places to no avail or seem clueless. Several technicians and master techs telling me the engine can handle 1000hp.

I believe you should see about 12 in low boost and higher should be richer, 11.5 -11.8 to be safe. In the mid 11's is ideal for a stock engine. Running in the 12's could risk popping a head gasket or piston.

ARB would be the way to go.
 
#208 ·
random question...I was looking at those radiator caps just for fun...what is the difference between type S and type N? I saw it on trdsparks website.
 
#210 ·
the type N says something about more engine protection, at higher rpms or when engine under stress? I think its worth $30...plus it looks cool.

TRD Radiator Cap, Type N at Sparks Toyota-Scion, Myrtle Beach, SC

TRD Radiator Cap, Type N 1.3 kg/cm, 18.5 psi.
*Provides valuable engine protection.
*Helps enhance vehicle performance in high-rpm or high-load conditions.
*Provides increased pressure for reduced heat.
*Releases at higher cooling system pressures than factory caps, raising the coolant boiling point to protect engines under high-rpm or high load operation.
 
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