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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Aggressive brake pads!

Hello Everyone,

I apologize in advance if i posted this thread in the wrong category.

I am looking for aggressive brake pads for my 2014 1794. So far had Wagner OEX and was happy with them but they wore down relatively fast. Currently running Duralast Golds and they are absolute garbage.

Does anyone have any recommendations for great pads with great bite?

I have looked at OEX again and Akebonos.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:14 PM
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I have read up on this recently and think I'm going with the akebonos.


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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What have you read about the Akebonos? I used to get instant bite with the OEX after barely touching the brake pedal, now i have to give it a good press before the truck starts braking
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:58 PM
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Why do you want instant aggressive bite ?

Is it a 6700 pound truck , the oem pads loaded or un loaded slow rather well.

If it were a race truck it wouldn't weigh this much

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Why do you want instant aggressive bite ?

Is it a 6700 pound truck , the oem pads loaded or un loaded slow rather well.

If it were a race truck it wouldn't weigh this much
I drive NYC on a daily basis, the drivers here are very lacking and sometimes i need to stop very fast. The truck also hauls HVAC equipment or is always loaded with tools. Also a decent amount of towing. I need pads that react quickly without the need for excess pressure, because I noticed with the duralast pads specifically don't grab and when i apply even more pressure the ABS goes off on sudden stops. I checked all brake components, flushed the lines using Toyota Tech software. Truck is in great shape. I never had these problems when i used other brake pads.

Wagner OEX were very aggressive and performed very well but wore down quickly and caused the rotor to wear down unevenly, hence my search for new pads.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 09:40 PM
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Here's what i have. EBC yellow brake pads and stoptech cryo slotted rotors. Very aggressive and won't fade on you when you ride them hard.


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what i have. EBC yellow brake pads and stoptech cryo slotted rotors. Very aggressive and won't fade on you when you ride them hard.
@Dragos28 The rotors I have are fairly new. Would the EBC yellows still work well with them? or should I swap rotors again?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 10:40 PM
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the ebc will work just fine with stock rotors. but the ebc will help dissipate heat much better if you are hauling heavy or driving very aggressive.


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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 10:45 PM
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@eshteyn - did you change or resurface the rotors when you put the Duralast pads on? I wouldn't expect much from those pads, but rotors ought to be replaced or resurfaced when replacing pads in order to bed them pad and rotor for optimum performance.

Else, I've run Akebonos on other Toyota vehicles and was very pleased with them; great feel, good bite (not super aggressive at initial tip in, but plenty of bite with just a little more pedal ), and low noise.

I've also used EBC brakes on other vehicles with good success.

I've NOT replaced the pads on my Tundra yet; over 94k on the factory pads and they still have good life left. So I CAN suggest OEM pads as a good alternative. Though, they aren't what I would call aggressive, they do provide excellent feedback and modulation.

I've also seen positive feedback for Hawk pads - specifically the Superduty pads. One of the vendors on the site was touting a Hawk brake pad packages and was fielding questions as to the differences in brake pads feel, bite, longevity, etc for individual applications. Might want to look in to that, too..

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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@Blenton

The driving in NYC is extremely brake heavy.

Come to think of it the pedal is much softer than it used to be. Is it possible the brake hoses need replacing after 60k?

The rotors were replaced with the last pad change.

I remember my truck used to react and start braking after barely touching the pedal. Trying to get back to that aside from good pads
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 11:14 PM
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Big city driving is definitely brake heavy - no argument from me there.

I watched this a while back and found it very informative on the subject of braking.


They suggested that the best upgrade a person could make to a stock braking system is upgrading the rubber lines to stainless steel. As you suspect, your factory lines may have a little bit of excess stretch to them (they are rubber, after all, and do stretch to some degree). It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace them. Now that I mention it, I've been meaning to do this on my truck for a while. I just haven't wanted to open up the lines without a reason to; I think the 100k service suggests a brake fluid flush. I should probably do that...

Slotted rotors will give you a much better initial bite - did you mention what kind of rotors you are using? There are always tradeoffs with brake pads - more or less bite, heat dissipation, pad life, rotor life, noise, dust, etc . Aggressive, high friction pads eat rotors (seriously, they grind up the rotor) and make more dust but give you great performance (but sometimes require more heat in the system, so winter time driving might be worse the OE). Long life pads last forever, don't eat your rotors, are quieter and less dusty, but don't give you great bite. I think the EBC and Hawk rotors give you a good compromise of those variables. But the more aggressive your pad, they more they will eat your rotors. If I lived in the city with bonehead drivers, I'd probably choose a slightly more aggressive pad like the EBC or Hawk and be willing to replace rotors whenever I needed a pad change (if needed).

The other thing they suggest for a soft pedal is excess radial or axial float causing the pads to sit out further from the rotor when not in use (think, setting the brake pads on your slightly out of true bicycle tire; in order to keep them from rubbing, you set then further from the rim at the cost of increased brake lever travel). Overworked or lesser-quality rotors can cause this.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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@Blenton

I have regular rotors, hopefully the mechanic didn't put in Duralast Gold rotors like he did the pads.

I might just go ham on this and replace the lines, rotors, and pads. Even though the rotors only have 14k on them and were virgin on the last change

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 08:10 AM
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@Blenton

I have regular rotors, hopefully the mechanic didn't put in Duralast Gold rotors like he did the pads.

I might just go ham on this and replace the lines, rotors, and pads. Even though the rotors only have 14k on them and were virgin on the last change

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IF going that route to restore the braking feel you once had ,, please thoroughly flush ALL the existing fluid out . Brake fluid gets old and brownish , it has an affinity for water and absorbs water from almost nowhere and brakes down .

good luck

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 12:42 PM
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I have had EBC yellow pads with coated NAPA rotors for the last few years. Best for us NY'ers to have a coated rotor. My old ones rotted away before the pads. Yellow pads are made for heavy loads. I run with stock 5 lug shiny alloys and I don't have a dust issue. EBC pads come with a break in coating that will cut into the rotor to match it up with the pads. Whether you need to turn the rotors will require you to inspect them closely.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 01:20 PM
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Points for the EBC Yellowstuff pads, some of the best you can get. Designed for heavy use.

I would go into my full description of them, but volleyball already nailed it down.

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