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post #166 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by lando622 View Post
I think I found the exact actuator they put in their bracket some obscure place online for about $12, but I haven't checked back on it since mine is working well for now. If it quits working and I can't get Pop & Lock to send me a new actuator, I can go the old-school route with the generic actuator and the universal mount that older threads showed for about $10-15.
What is the link to this actuator?

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post #167 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene3x View Post
What is the link to this actuator?
In my Pop & Lock bracket, there's a red AEW brand actuator. It looks like the same shape as the JW-302 version on their website at Power door lock actuators. There may be a different type of white nipple on the end of the plunger that's specific to the Pop & Lock version, but this looks like it has the same screw holes to fit in the Pop & Lock bracket.

I found it for sale here: Hi-Torque Clutch Type Power Door Lock Actuator.

The other common actuator that people were using for this before Pop & Lock came out with theirs was the Directed Electronics 524N model that can be found in many places like Amazon, Frys, Best Buy, etc: http://www.amazon.com/Install-Essent...ct_top?ie=UTF8.

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post #168 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 10:35 AM
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Wanted to update and thank everyone for the replies. I spayed lithium everywhere and it works perfectly
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post #169 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 01:18 PM
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Glad you got it working properly.

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post #170 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 07:28 PM
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Just wanted to ask you guys what wire loom size anybody with using? I'm sure it's fine by itself but I would like to run it in some wire loom. I know a few have ran it inside the factory loom but that looks like a pain in the ass. I'm hoping to just follow the factory wire harness from the rear of the truck forward hiding the new wire up above it and zip tying to it. I'm thinking 1/4 inch loom. But maybe 3/8 would be better to leave some buffer zone inside. What you guys think?
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post #171 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 07:54 PM
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I have the kit. I need to get it installed since I have a soft cover, fat chicks keep sneaking into my bed

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post #172 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-27-2016, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 15whtrd View Post
Just wanted to ask you guys what wire loom size anybody with using? I'm sure it's fine by itself but I would like to run it in some wire loom. I know a few have ran it inside the factory loom but that looks like a pain in the ass. I'm hoping to just follow the factory wire harness from the rear of the truck forward hiding the new wire up above it and zip tying to it. I'm thinking 1/4 inch loom. But maybe 3/8 would be better to leave some buffer zone inside. What you guys think?
I used 3/8" and did it like you mention above...followed the factory harness from the rear of the truck forward and went through the firewall on the passenger side in the engine compartment. I thought the 3/8" worked well.

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post #173 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 05:18 PM
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Has anyone done this install without using the t-taps? I'm not a big fan of that kind of connection. Thinking of doing this mod, splicing the wires, butt connectors and heat shrink. Thoughts? Anyone have any issues with t-taps?

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post #174 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 05:20 PM
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Has anyone done this install without using the t-taps? I'm not a big fan of that kind of connection. Thinking of doing this mod, splicing the wires, butt connectors and heat shrink. Thoughts? Anyone have any issues with t-taps?


Just use Posi-Taps. I use them in place of t-taps for all electrical taps.


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post #175 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by signaltwenty View Post
Just ordered mine. Amazon had best price


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I ordered and I had it installed one about 1 month ago. I paid 100 bucks to get it installed. Very happy with it so far.


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post #176 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Azblue View Post
Just use Posi-Taps. I use them in place of t-taps for all electrical taps.
+1 on the POSI-TAPS. These work great. Use these, you won't regret it.
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post #177 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 05:48 PM
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Thanks, I'll give the posi-taps a go. Not much to lose on it!

One other question that I couldn't answer from the YouTube videos... where are most people running the cable from the tailgate to the bed? I saw the idea of running them inside the camera wire loom, but that looks like a pain.

Is it possible to run it through the drain hole on the tailgate, then outside of the camera loom and still fit it in the loom retainer on the bed? Looking at it, I even wondered if I could just drill a small hole in the retainer to sneak the wires through. Thoughts? Doing the job later this week/weekend. I don't want any wiring showing under the tailgate.

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post #178 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-28-2017, 01:28 PM
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2018 owners beware, the wire color at the inside harness has changed. It is no longer blue to blue with silver stripe, it is now blue to red with silver stripe. Good thing is, it is the only other wire in the harness with the same gauge wire.

Thanks to all for the help with this. Not a bad install.

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post #179 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-28-2017, 03:30 PM
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Pop & Lock power tailgate lock

Thanks @jds685
I was waiting for someone else to do it and figure out the new colors
Now I can buy one.

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post #180 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-02-2017, 09:03 PM
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So far so good on my 2018 Limited DC, very straightforward and simple to install

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