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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring aux lighting (Rigid Ditch Lights)

I finally got my ditch brackets (Rago) and my Rigid's, but I'm not certain on the install. I got a switch from aironboard and there are 4 wires coming off the back connector. Looking at their diagram, I'm not wanting it install it with the headlights or anything. I just want them to come on when I press the button. So I guess my question is this...

1. The black wire on the rigid's is just a ground and can be grounded anywhere to the truck?
2. The red wire on the rigid's is the hot wire, but where do I hook it to? A fuse tap or to the battery on the truck? If a fuse tap, which one or where?

I think I can figure out the rest. I'm not a fan of electricity so I know very little when it comes to hooking up items like lights.


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Last edited by partyguy816; 05-16-2017 at 10:37 PM. Reason: Updated title
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 02:04 PM
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Wires on aob switch are just for the switch light to come on wit dash lights output is only when you push switch


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Wires on aob switch are just for the switch light to come on wit dash lights output is only when you push switch


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So what wires are needed on aob? The rigids are red, black and blue I think.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 02:12 PM
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If you want it to look right yes. I cut the crappy switch that came with lights off and only used the red and black the 3rd on mine was just to light up the lil red indicator light on switch. The aob is power in power out ground and headlights


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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So I guess the other part of my question is should I hook the red straight up to the battery or should I cut the connector off and use a fuse tap?


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 04:48 PM
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If you have a relay harness it should have black and red with ring terminals that go straight to batt


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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I guess to close the thread in case someone later down the road reads this, it appears easy. I hooked it up to the battery and used the air on board toyota switch. Red, Black and Green is all that is needed for the hook up.

I didn't fully install it yet since I painted the silver brackets black and I just need to find a way though the firewall. I'm afraid of cutting the rubber around the bundle of wires going into the cab, so I might just try to go in next to it in that grommet.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:16 PM
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I guess to close the thread in case someone later down the road reads this, it appears easy. I hooked it up to the battery and used the air on board toyota switch. Red, Black and Green is all that is needed for the hook up.

I didn't fully install it yet since I painted the silver brackets black and I just need to find a way though the firewall. I'm afraid of cutting the rubber around the bundle of wires going into the cab, so I might just try to go in next to it in that grommet.


I went into that grommet right on side stuck a long screwdriver through and taped wire to it


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Got an xacto knife in there then pushed in a flex rod. I used electrical tape and wrapped the cable to the end of it and pulled it through. No problem.

Rigid's are freaking bright. Looks a little dumb during the day having those lights up on the hood, but at night....WOW!. Maybe looking "dumb" is too harsh. Just strange looking I guess. haha.


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:53 PM
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To do it properly you should run power from the battery to a relay. Use a fuse close to the battery terminal 10 amp should be sufficient. Then power your switch and lights from the relay. This will keep you from frying the switch. Not that the LED's pull a lot, but its better to do it right.


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