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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Auburn issue

Soooo....My Auburn started acting up about a week ago. If I take a sharp turn, say out of a parking space, it binds and catches and vibrates (oh my). In a straight line there is no issue, It is still hooking up like it should too. I know this because I was pissed at it binding so I jumped on it out of an intersection and lit both tires through the rest of first gear.

Auburn has a "D-REX" four year, "no questions asked" warranty which is cool. The local 4Wheel Parts guys was all but calling me stupid and arguing that it didn't exist, all while it is listed on their website.

Not sure what to do with this thing at this point. I have a trip back to Arizona (1100 miles round trip) to take care of some things and pick-up my small enclosed trailer (Aluminum, hauling three motorcycles). It's not much of a load on the truck with the HP I'm pushing and I won't be in a rush, so I think it will be fine. I only have two work days to get anything done before I leave, if I was to have it serviced before I left. Hence, my dilemma.

The oil was just changed in the diff about 2500 miles ago, using the same oil that it was installed with, Valvoline.

Any gurus out there have any thoughts about this situation?

Thanks,
Dave

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2007 Tundra CrewMax Limited 4x4
TRD Supercharger, GTEK SABM, Bully Dog GT T+
4.88 Gears and Auburn LSD
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 05:02 AM
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did you add friction modifier when the diff oil was changed? If not, throw some in. That should solve the problem.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stewie View Post
did you add friction modifier when the diff oil was changed? If not, throw some in. That should solve the problem.
I did Stewie. I added two bottles of the Auburn friction modifier. All was well until about a week ago.

Here's the thing. It doesn't do it all the time. It does it more when the oil is warmer. When it's cold, like just starting off, it doesn't do it. I have bought some friction modifier and I think I'm going to add a little more. Maybe the oil is failing, the original friction modifier is failing, maybe there wasn't enough in it to begin with and it's just now rearing it's ugly head?

The one thing I do know, is that if the Diff was failing, it would act up ALL the time. It's got to be oil/friction modifier related.

I'll post up how it goes in case someone searches out this thread someday.

Thanks,
Dave

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4.88 Gears and Auburn LSD
ProComp 6" stg 1, Bilstein 5100s + 2" shackles
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TRD Swaybar with Heim joint endlinks

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 09:41 PM
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Sorry Dave, they just wear out. Mine has been defunct for years now. They are not rebuildable either.

I have been hoping for Eaton to release a TrueTrac or Detroit locker, but I don't think they ever will at this point. I don't really want a locker as I want it to be "always on" for fun on the street.

(Throws hands up)

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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In 40,000 miles though? That seems kinda dumb. That and it not binding all the time leads me to believe that it's not the unit itself. I may just change the oil again and see what happens.

If it is worn out, I'll get it changed before the 4 years is up so that I can take advantage of the D-REX program (I have 2 more years left). I guess I just don't have to rush to get it done right at this minute though. I can just deal with a bit of binding and noise until I have more time (and money) to mess with it.

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4.88 Gears and Auburn LSD
ProComp 6" stg 1, Bilstein 5100s + 2" shackles
Fuel Krank (black) w/Nitto 35"
TRD Swaybar with Heim joint endlinks

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 05:47 AM
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Well I obviously have no way of knowing, but that's what mine did before it gave up. I changed the fluid several times.

It's not rated for the torque of a supercharged 5.7 so I think it accelerates the wear.

I hope I'm wrong

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RIjon View Post
Well I obviously have no way of knowing, but that's what mine did before it gave up. I changed the fluid several times.

It's not rated for the torque of a supercharged 5.7 so I think it accelerates the wear.

I hope I'm wrong
I hope you are too, haha.

I changed the oil today and added fresh Friction Modifier. It feels great right now, better than it has in a long time. I know it's working too because I "had to" jump on the throttle to prove that I was not happy that a guy cut me off in traffic. I need to stop doing that, my tires aren't cheap.

I guess we'll see how it goes with the oil change and hope for the best.

Thanks for the input gents.

Dave

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TRD Supercharger, GTEK SABM, Bully Dog GT T+
4.88 Gears and Auburn LSD
ProComp 6" stg 1, Bilstein 5100s + 2" shackles
Fuel Krank (black) w/Nitto 35"
TRD Swaybar with Heim joint endlinks

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 03:53 PM
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Any updates to this ?

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Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave View Post
I hope you are too, haha.

I changed the oil today and added fresh Friction Modifier. It feels great right now, better than it has in a long time. I know it's working too because I "had to" jump on the throttle to prove that I was not happy that a guy cut me off in traffic. I need to stop doing that, my tires aren't cheap.

I guess we'll see how it goes with the oil change and hope for the best.

Thanks for the input gents.

Dave

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave View Post
I did Stewie. I added two bottles of the Auburn friction modifier. All was well until about a week ago.

Here's the thing. It doesn't do it all the time. It does it more when the oil is warmer. When it's cold, like just starting off, it doesn't do it. I have bought some friction modifier and I think I'm going to add a little more. Maybe the oil is failing, the original friction modifier is failing, maybe there wasn't enough in it to begin with and it's just now rearing it's ugly head?

The one thing I do know, is that if the Diff was failing, it would act up ALL the time. It's got to be oil/friction modifier related.

I'll post up how it goes in case someone searches out this thread someday.

Thanks,
Dave
**Haha - just looked at the OP date for this thread. Oops. I went straight to the end and saw the post today from @RitcheyRch

I wouldn't consider the Auburn worn out just yet. I had very similar issues with mine after changing the oil for the first time at around 12k miles. It didn't see any abuse, no hot rodding, no burnouts or trying to light them up around the corners - just highway driving and one hunting trip in some soggy mud and snow. No issues when cold, but clunky making bad noises intermittently when warm. When really warm, it would grab and chirp tires in tight, low speed corners like I had a locker. I was also using Valvoline.

Change the oil to Castrol Axle 80w90 Limited Slip Dino (NOT synthetic) and add more friction modifier. Add the FM first to make sure you get ALL of it in there, then drain what little is left in the FM bottles in to the gear oil and add the gear oil. I used three bottles of GM modifier (they are 4 oz instead of 6 oz like Auburn gear). Mine was VERY finicky about how much FM I had in there. I drained and refilled the oil several times trying different oils and FM amounts. It didn't like Ford FM or Valvoline fluid for some reason. Drove me nuts for a few weeks trying to figure it out.

I looked up the MSDS papers on the oils and compared them. Between Castrol and Valvoline, the kinematic viscosities are almost identical, but both the Viscosity Index and Brookfield Viscosity are higher on the Castrol. I'm not sure the Brookfield Viscosity has much to do with it (because it is measured at -26 degrees) but the different in VI might be enough to account for the difference in behavior. I spend many a hour on Bob is the Oil Guy and other forums trying to figure out what was going on.

But the Castrol 80w90 with ALL 12 oz of friction modifier worked best for me. That's been in there for about a year with 15k miles and the diff is still playing nicely and providing great winter and loose surface traction. It operates quietly, smoothly, and unobtrusively, even with the regular 30 degree daily temperature swings we get in the winter/spring - sometimes even from 0 to 50 degrees F in a few days.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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**Haha - just looked at the OP date for this thread. Oops. I went straight to the end and saw the post today from @RitcheyRch

I wouldn't consider the Auburn worn out just yet. I had very similar issues with mine after changing the oil for the first time at around 12k miles. It didn't see any abuse, no hot rodding, no burnouts or trying to light them up around the corners - just highway driving and one hunting trip in some soggy mud and snow. No issues when cold, but clunky making bad noises intermittently when warm. When really warm, it would grab and chirp tires in tight, low speed corners like I had a locker. I was also using Valvoline.

Change the oil to Castrol Axle 80w90 Limited Slip Dino (NOT synthetic) and add more friction modifier. Add the FM first to make sure you get ALL of it in there, then drain what little is left in the FM bottles in to the gear oil and add the gear oil. I used three bottles of GM modifier (they are 4 oz instead of 6 oz like Auburn gear). Mine was VERY finicky about how much FM I had in there. I drained and refilled the oil several times trying different oils and FM amounts. It didn't like Ford FM or Valvoline fluid for some reason. Drove me nuts for a few weeks trying to figure it out.

I looked up the MSDS papers on the oils and compared them. Between Castrol and Valvoline, the kinematic viscosities are almost identical, but both the Viscosity Index and Brookfield Viscosity are higher on the Castrol. I'm not sure the Brookfield Viscosity has much to do with it (because it is measured at -26 degrees) but the different in VI might be enough to account for the difference in behavior. I spend many a hour on Bob is the Oil Guy and other forums trying to figure out what was going on.

But the Castrol 80w90 with ALL 12 oz of friction modifier worked best for me. That's been in there for about a year with 15k miles and the diff is still playing nicely and providing great winter and loose surface traction. It operates quietly, smoothly, and unobtrusively, even with the regular 30 degree daily temperature swings we get in the winter/spring - sometimes even from 0 to 50 degrees F in a few days.
Well, I had Toyota change it back about a year ago and it was working great. It's still not making noise but it doesn't seem to be spinning both tires on dry pavement anymore. It works on dirt and I have been able to spin both tires in the wet but dry pavement not so much.

At this point, I'm actually willing to go with it the way it is as it is a pleasure to drive with no grab and catch and both wheels are working when traction is questionable. So I guess that's a win win.

Dave

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2007 Tundra CrewMax Limited 4x4
TRD Supercharger, GTEK SABM, Bully Dog GT T+
4.88 Gears and Auburn LSD
ProComp 6" stg 1, Bilstein 5100s + 2" shackles
Fuel Krank (black) w/Nitto 35"
TRD Swaybar with Heim joint endlinks

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-07-2018, 07:58 PM
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Thanks for the information

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blenton View Post
**Haha - just looked at the OP date for this thread. Oops. I went straight to the end and saw the post today from @RitcheyRch

I wouldn't consider the Auburn worn out just yet. I had very similar issues with mine after changing the oil for the first time at around 12k miles. It didn't see any abuse, no hot rodding, no burnouts or trying to light them up around the corners - just highway driving and one hunting trip in some soggy mud and snow. No issues when cold, but clunky making bad noises intermittently when warm. When really warm, it would grab and chirp tires in tight, low speed corners like I had a locker. I was also using Valvoline.

Change the oil to Castrol Axle 80w90 Limited Slip Dino (NOT synthetic) and add more friction modifier. Add the FM first to make sure you get ALL of it in there, then drain what little is left in the FM bottles in to the gear oil and add the gear oil. I used three bottles of GM modifier (they are 4 oz instead of 6 oz like Auburn gear). Mine was VERY finicky about how much FM I had in there. I drained and refilled the oil several times trying different oils and FM amounts. It didn't like Ford FM or Valvoline fluid for some reason. Drove me nuts for a few weeks trying to figure it out.

I looked up the MSDS papers on the oils and compared them. Between Castrol and Valvoline, the kinematic viscosities are almost identical, but both the Viscosity Index and Brookfield Viscosity are higher on the Castrol. I'm not sure the Brookfield Viscosity has much to do with it (because it is measured at -26 degrees) but the different in VI might be enough to account for the difference in behavior. I spend many a hour on Bob is the Oil Guy and other forums trying to figure out what was going on.

But the Castrol 80w90 with ALL 12 oz of friction modifier worked best for me. That's been in there for about a year with 15k miles and the diff is still playing nicely and providing great winter and loose surface traction. It operates quietly, smoothly, and unobtrusively, even with the regular 30 degree daily temperature swings we get in the winter/spring - sometimes even from 0 to 50 degrees F in a few days.
Thanks for the update. Been contemplating adding this to my supercharged crewmax

Quote:
Originally Posted by Decreasing Dave View Post
Well, I had Toyota change it back about a year ago and it was working great. It's still not making noise but it doesn't seem to be spinning both tires on dry pavement anymore. It works on dirt and I have been able to spin both tires in the wet but dry pavement not so much.

At this point, I'm actually willing to go with it the way it is as it is a pleasure to drive with no grab and catch and both wheels are working when traction is questionable. So I guess that's a win win.

Dave

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