The Official "Forge" Thread for LYCAN: 2016 Tundra TRD Pro CM MGM
Quick note: Just want to say thank you to everyone who engages in the forum. I have had this truck for almost a year now before modifying it so I could get a better appreciation for what this specialized trim level is capable of stock and to consider all of the things I would like to change about it. I've learned a ton from you guys, and it has been very valuable information when it eventually came time to do my own (past and future) work on my truck with sway bars, coilovers, rear leafs, lights, electrical, etc. So this is my build so far and my immediate goals.
Born: May 2016
Instagram: @ LYCANology
- 2016 Toyota Tundra TRD Pro
- CrewMax, Magnetic Gray Metallic
- 5.7L V8 Engine (381 HP, 401 ft-lb. Torque)
- TRD Dual Cat-Back Exhaust
*NEXT* Magnuson Superchargers Toyota Tundra 3UR-FE 5.7L V8 Supercharger System
- TRD Pro Bilstein 2.5" Remote-Reservoir Front Shocks
- TRD Pro Eibach Lower-Rate TRD-Tuned Front Springs
- TRD Pro Bilstein 2.0" Remote-Reservoir Rear Shocks
- Coachbuilder Front Coilover Shims (4, 2/side)
- Coachbuilder Rear Leaf Spring Shackles +3″
- Coachbuilder Polyurethane Half Bushing Kit
- Coachbuilder Carrier Bearing Drop Kit 1.25″
*SOLD* Toyota Tundra OEM Rear Leaf Spring Shackles
- Toyo Open Country R/T (35X12.50R17LT, 121Q, E)
- Method Double Standards (Black) (17x8.5in, 5x150mm, +0mm)
- Heavy Metal Off-Road Cab-Mount Chop and Plates
*SOLD* TRD Pro Black Alloy Wheels (18x8in, 5x150mm, +60mm)
*SOLD* Michelin LTX A/T2 Tires (P275/65R18)
- TRD Pro Front Aluminum Skid Plate
*NEXT* Evil Manufacturing Pure Evil Front Bumper
*NEXT* BAMF Rock Sliders—TBD—
- Tundra OEM Spray-In Bedliner
- Tundra OEM Tailgate Letter Insert (Platinum)
- UnderCover Ridgelander Tonneau Cover with Rhino-Rack System
*NEXT* Tailgate Dust and Water Seal
*NEXT* Auxiliary Bed Power
*NEXT* Tint: 20% Wrap, 50% Windshield
*NEXT* Tundra OEM Bed Mat
*NEXT* RK Sport Tundra Ram Air Hood with Heat Extractor Vents
- Tundra OEM All-Weather Floor Liners
*NEXT* Center Console Organizer
*NEXT* Black Suede Headliner
*NEXT* Black Plastic Trim
*SOLD* Toyota Tundra TRD Pro Carpet Floor Mats
Looks like you have a good build plan man! I love the MGM Pros, definitely would have been a hard decision next to the superwhite, but that's all that was available at the time. Looking forward to the build and am also interested in the suede headliner!
Ekstrom Design "Coachbuilder" Rear Leaf Spring Shackles Installation Guide
What you will need:
1) Stock tire irons (supplied behind rear right seat)
2) Breaker bar for lug nuts (stock tire irons work, but if lugs over tightened to 150ft.lbs, then it may bend tire iron, you should invest in breaker bar, you will need it for everything for truck later on, get one that is at least 20" long)
3) 3-Ton Jack
4) Two 3-Ton Jack Stands
5) Shackles To Be Instaled (I used CB's +3") + Anti-Seize Lubricant
6) Carrier Bearing Drop Kit To Be Installed 7) O'Reilly Auto Parts Ball Joint/U-Joint Press Kit (Free! Loaner Program)
8) O'Reilly Auto Parts Four-Wheel Drive Ball Joint Adapter Set (Free! Loaner Program)
9) 19mm Wrench (Shackles)
10) 14mm Wrench (Carrier Bearing)
11) Ratchet wrench for Ball Joint Press Plunger Bolt (I believe a 7/8 wrench worked for this, but check)
12) Torque Wrench
Rear Leaf Spring Shackles:
1) Chock your front wheels. Be safe and chock them in front and behind. Do this strongly so there is no play whatsoever when the truck is lowered onto jack stands later.
2) Use stock tire irons to lower and remove your spare tire if you have one. Access slot is just below your license plate.
3) Use tire irons/breaker bar to BREAK/LOOSEN wheel lug nuts of both rear wheels while truck is on ground. Do not remove lug nuts. They should only be broken loose from torque.
4) Place jack under truck differential. Make sure it is squared up. Jack truck until both rear tires are in the air by a good amount. Jack will stay supporting differential throughout this installation.
5) Place jack stands as far rear on the frame as possible. Keep jack stands on the straight part of the frame. Do not place them as far rear as when the frame starts curving upwards towards the wheel wells, obviously.
6) Gently lower truck on to jack stands. Make sure they are high enough where you won't be dropping the truck too far. Also want to make sure your tires are still off the ground after you lower it on jack stands.
7) With truck now supported on jack stands (ensure first), finishing removing wheel lug nuts and remove both tires.
8) Identify the current leaf spring shackles. They should be angled pointing to back of truck.
9) Slowly lower differential with jack. Continue to do so until the shackles are pointing straight down but not too far as you want it to be just right so they shackles are not taking any weight. Check to make sure there is a little play in the shackles. Do not lower so far as to stretch your brake lines.
10) Remove factory 19mm nuts and washers on the shackles.
11) Remove factory shackle plates from the side you just removed nuts and washers from.
12) Slide the other side of shackle out of the frame and leaf spring. This part should be relatively easy. If the plate and bolts will not budge, try snugging up the jack a little or lower the jack a little so the shackle isn't taking weight. When it is free of weight, they should slide out. Try to get it to this point, otherwise the leaf springs will snap up or down if you force the shackles out and they were under tension.
13) Get out your Ball Joint Press Kit and 4WD Adapter Set. Assemble your ball joint press with threading the plunger bolt through the threaded side from the outside of the c-clamp. Place the middle adapter from the adapter set on the inside of the c-clamp. Between the adapter and the end of the plunger bolt, place the end of the leaf spring with the bushing to be removed. Snug it up until it is tight. Now make sure the adapter cup is squared up on the leaf spring eye so that when you push the bushing out, it will go inside of the cup. You'll know if you picked the right cup because it basically needs to be the same diameter of the leaf spring eye. This entire assembly of the ball joint press and adapter on the leaf spring eye is definitely made easier with two sets of hands.
14) With a ratchet wrench (7/8 should be the right size, but use whatever fits the plunger bolt the best), start torquing the plunger bolt so it pushes into the bushing. Most bushings should push out along with their steel sleeve on the inside of the leaf spring eye. If for some reason yours are separating, you may have to get a thick steel washer/plate that is just smaller than the diameter of the leaf spring eye so when you torque the plunger through, it doesnt just remove the rubber bushing but also moves the sleeve. However, this probably won't happen. Keep torquing the bolt until the bushing and sleeve pop out the other side into the adapter cup.
15) Remove the ball joint press and clean the leaf spring end and eye very well of all debris.
16) Lubricate the inside of the leaf spring eye as well as your new bushings to install at all contact and friction points. You can use some leftover lubricant to lubricate the stock bushings in the frame part above too as well as the two bolts you will use to fasten the new shackles with. Insert these bushings into the leaf spring eye.
17) Install the new shackles into the top hole of the frame. Install the top bolt (lubricated) as well with washers on both sides of the bolt. Just snug the nut on for now. I install the bolts so the nut is closer to the outside of the frame. This creates additional clearance on the inside where you will put your spare, particularly useful if you need every inch of space down there for a 35" spare. If you will always run stock, then it doesn't matter which way the bolt goes.
18) With the longer shackles, they may be too long to have the leaf spring eyelet fit in between the shackle easily. If this is the case, you can lower the jack as far as possible to get these to line up better. This may be limited by your exhaust pipes though, with the leaf springs bottoming out on their distance by resting on them. Do not lower so far as to stretch your brake lines.
19) You can remove the rubber exhaust hangers to give yourself more room to have the shackle and leaf springs to meet up. I, however, just used another person to pull the leaf spring eye down while I lined up the shackle and then quickly inserted the bolt (don't forget the washer here like I did or you will have to do it twice!). This does stretch the rubber exhaust hangers. However, it's industrial rubber and is totally fine doing this. If one breaks, they are just a couple bucks to replace. But if they should definitely not break. Things are so difficult to remove, so I just did it this way.
20) Snug all nuts and washers up on the shackles by hand. Repeat for other side.
21) Place wheels/tires back on the truck. Hand tighten lug nuts. If you lowered the differential during the install a little too much, you may have to snug it up again with the jack to have wheel hubs high enough to reinstall tires so they are still off the ground.
22) Clear out everything from under truck. Jack truck up by the differential until truck is off of the jack stands.
23) Remove jack stands completely and place away from truck. Gently lower differential and thus the truck back to the ground.
24) Torque wheel lug nuts to 97ft.lbs if alloy or 153ft.lbs if steel.
25) Torque leaf spring shackle nuts to 75ft.lbs.
26) Reinstall spare tire.
Carrier Bearing Drop Kit:
27) You can do this while truck is on the ground. It is a really tight fit for stock tires, however. If you would rather, you can re-jack up the truck for this. If you do, leave the wheels/tires on as an extra safety precaution.
28) Locate carrier bearing near the center of the driveshaft right near the middle of the undercarriage.
29) Put a jack stand before and after the carrier bearing. Leave about 2" of space between jack stands and drive shaft. That's enough to install the 1.25" drop.
30) Use a 14mm wrench to unscrew the bolts on the carrier bearing bracket. As you unscrew them, the carrier bearing will slowly lower onto the jack stands. If you bottom out before you completely unscrew, then just move the jack stands down a notch.
31) Place the carrier bearing drop kit spacers on top of the bolts (bolt through the spacer hole).
32) Screw the bolts back into the carrier bearing bracket. Torque to 25ft.lbs.
33) Remove the jack stands and all tools. If you jacked the truck up to do this, jack higher, remove jack stands from frame, then slowly lower. Standard protocol.
Pics or it didn't happen:
Ekstrom video. Less detailed, but he shows you how to operate the jack/jack stand/differential well for this application.