Ok so some updates kids, since its been a while its going to be big and long...
4.88 nitro gears and arb rear locker are now installed and the truck feels great.... but ran into a little issue with my coil overs.
Took a hard hit in Tundras to sedona and blew a coil over and fatigued a coil, so i knew the fronts were too soft, 600 lb springs are not enough for my style, so upgraded to a 700lb spring like
but the king LT coils use a weird chevy spring not a 3.0 spring like all the other King products so I had Micha at Down South Motorsports rebuild my coilovers and swap my top hat and adjustment collar to a 3.0 style with a standard 700lb 3.0 coil spring. So now the truck is getting an alignment ... again, to make sure the truck is sitting level and straight with the new coil over setup, i also had him open up one of the blocked bleed valves for more flow in the coil over to soften the ride a bit on the little choppy stuff and on the street.
you can see the diff in springs and adjustment collar, interesting the smaller spring is stiffer. Also with the narrower spring there is more room next to the tie rod, which i know people have had issues with rubbing.
Already feels night and day better.
Also finished the 38 gal tank swap.. so thats done now.
I also have all my new lights and LT rear parts in the garage awaiting install in july. I cant wait to get that done
here is the link to the 38 gal tank swap
its sooo much bigger ( LOL thats what she said)
Ok LT update 2
Some decent progress made till I broke two hole saw bits and my only jigsaw metal blade so Iíll get replacements tomorrow...
So confirmed w camburg the holes to use so I figured out the center point of them on the frame (see picture) and drilled a pilot hole, so I know where to put my template for the bigger hole.
Those holes in the frame need to be 1/2Ē-9/16Ē to fit the 1/2Ē bolts... I used a step bit which made it very easy
Once I did that I drilled the corners w a 1Ē hole saw, then followed my lines w the jigsaw
Once I got those in their holes and positioned on the frame I was able to outline the rear supportís and start cutting those out in the same way, sadly thatís when I broke two hole saws and the jigsaw blade....
OK so update 3...
came over and gave me a hand and we made great progress. Im a little short on pics as i was trying to get through this step, but i can add more later
First I finished off the cage install
got the last two bed holes cut and place the cage in and marked the holes ontop of the frame for drilling..
Then temp bolted the cage in. Im still waiting on the material to trim the hole edges.
Out with the old shocks and leafs
Im short on pics from here, but i cut off the old lower shock mounts and ground down and prepped the axle housing for the leaf spring perch, once that was done we mounted the new SUA leafs and shackles. temporarly mounting the up with the spring plates. and lowered the truck back down onto the wheels. So this is where it sit currently. The height is great and holy down travel.. when it was on the jack stands there was 16" of droop from the factory bump mount to the axle housing.
i still have to do the following steps, and cant do shit this week cause i am watching my god kids all week while mom and dad are in alaska
- set pinion angle
- tack weld leaf spring perch
- cut shock pass through in bed
- cut out old upper shock mount and bump mount
- install new bump mount
- uninstall leafs
- strip leafs to the main leaf
- re-install the main leaf
- mount shocks
- tack weld in lower shock mounts
- cycle suspension
- figure out where i fu#ked something up
- fix whatever it was i fu$ked up
- cycle again for bump placement
- once everything is good to go strip everything off
- finish weld everything
- paint everything
- put leafs back together
- reinstall everything
- hope and pray nothing breaks
Okie dokie update 4.. so i pulled my back muscles last week so was still in pain saturday, but sunday was feeling better so made a little progress...
got my new high clearance leaf spring plates
had to do the final welding on them...
then finally got the correct rubber trim for openings in the bed so installed that and mounted the cage
then worked on cutting off the factory upper shock mounts and bump mounts
soooo much down travel LOL
thats it for now, this week gonna cut holes for shocks, get them trimmed out, mount bump mounts and hopefully get leaf spring mounts tack welded in and pinion angle set.. we will see how this afternoon goes.
Got the frame cleaned up , and bed cage is now fully bolted in to the frame.
Finished grinding and cutting off both upper shock mounts. That took some work!!
Got both sides painted...
Got the lower spring perches fitted
Took a little grinding to get them to sit almost straight .. once I get the truck back on itís wheels Friday I will set the pinion angle and tack weld them in place then break everything down and weld them in completely... this weekend my goal is cut holes in bed for shocks, mount shocks, and work on lower shock mounts. After I tear down the leaf packs to two main leafs for cycling. As well as mounting bumps and guesseting the leaf spring mounting plates.
I ran out of light and steam.
Made good progress.
Had two buddie came over and helped me Saturday morning.
We got the holes in the bed cut for the shocks. We got the pinion angle set and tack welded in the leaf spring mounts.
then broke down the leafs and remounted just the main two leafs
working on the lower shock mounts this week.
Ran into an issue with the Camburg bump mounts. Basically their mounts they sold me limit up travel...
If you see in this pic
the bump mount alone is 2-3" lower than the bottom of the shock body... however if you look at this pic of the bump mount on their LT tundra its much higher and flush with the frame allowing full uptravel.
so basically I'm left with making my own using Kartek bump mount parts and returning these or, modifying these and making them work. But the cost of modifying these seems silly since they are 400$+ I can just return them and buy 100$ or less of material and do it my self. I'm starting to think that is the better option.
Let me know your thoughts.
Either way should have the lower shock mounts done today or by Wednesday and start to button up everything. Although the bump mounts will slow me down from putting the leafs back together at this point at least for a few more days.
yeah sopke with camburg again via email. And because Im running kings, i need top buy these now and make my own. So thats what it sounds like ill be doing...
I already have plate steel and dimple die plate sitting around, so ill just make my own. Positioning them will be a little more work only because i dont have the ability to adjust the bump height once the mount is in place so i have to be very sure about placement. BUt i think you are correct and i will need to just make my own. Oh well. Thus is life.
Ok so here is where we are at for now. I talked to
about the process for cycling rear leaf long travel setups, and here is what is basically the process.
your spring and shackle along with their movement are what determines your travel.
So when setting your bump height, it should be done without your shocks and with the nitrogen let out of the bump so it can get to full compression. T Your limiting strap is set when you are at full droop, and your rear shackle is just shy of 90 degrees from a line drawn from the center of your front spring mounting bolt to the center of the rear mounting bolt that attaches the shackle to the frame.
For setting droop.
I used a piece of 1Ē heavy duty painters tape to do this. Because the Camburg shackle has a dogleg shape to it, I also ran a piece of tape between the bolt going to the frame and the bolt on the spring side ( see attached drawing).
Keep in mind the strap is going to stretch a little, some manufacturers more than others.
I mounted the lower tab for the limit strap to the axle
And the upper mount thankfully had a great spot on my 1.25" DOM crossbar that holds my battery box to the frame. So that was a good spot for it
you can see it in the upper left of this pic.
The compressed bump height is set when your mainspring is almost flat.
Once I got that part figured out, I started on the bump mount. I have a piece of flat stock that the can is welded to. Then reinforced with dimple die pressed plate i have for another project.
once those were tacked up, I checked fitment and fully welded them in and tacked them onto the frame
For the lower shock mounts
The primary starting point is to set the truck at ride height have the lower shock tabs parallel to the deck, this allows for the movement of the axle equally, like your pinion angle. Every truck is different, so again this is a starting point, not an exact science. However, for me, this is where I started to run into some issues...
Keep in mind that cage is designed for stock I96 packs and thatís not what I have, my pack is a custom SUA spring pack.
But mainly in this pic where I set the suspension to full droop then left 1/2 inch of shock rod remaining in the shock body, I tack welded the mounts and then fully compressed the suspension. Yeilding over 3-4"'s of shock shaft remaining at full stuff. The issue is I'm not fully engaging the bump zone on the shock. Now I can leave 1" of the shaft in the body at droop to account for limit strap stretch which is safe and a good idea (talked to a buddy who builds 6100 trucks), but on the bump, I need to have more shaft inside.
SOOOO what are my options, well I can and will rotate the lower shock mount up towards the bed more which will net about an inch more shaft in the shock at bump which is good, but I still have to make up some more distance. I could lower the shock, but this would force me to modify the bed cage, and I'm trying to avoid that so the simple answer revealed itself to me on some pondering over a whiskey and chatting with
... Longer rod ends.
So I ordered a pair of 2" and 3" longer rod ends from DSM. Hoping that will help me resolve this. Once I get the lower shock mount in place and cycling correctly, I will tear everything down. Finish weld all the mounts and brackets like brake line brackets etc. Then paint and reassemble.
Making good progress just got held up a bit.
I swapped out the rod ends on the shocks
Saturday was able to rebuild the leafs w all new hardware
Fixed up my janky exhaust tips to point somewhat down and to passenger side
Then finish welded everything , painted and reinstalled everything!
Today (Sunday) I installed new brake lines and reattached hard lines and sensor wires... started to bleed brakes but have to go to my god daughters birthday party...so only thing left is finish brake bleeding, pressurize shocks and bumps and install wheels and clean everything up. Then mount my bumper. And Iím all done!! Should be back on the road by Wednesday!!
Rear LT Build is done...
sorry for the dark photos it was late when I finally got the wheels on and sitting on its own.
Still doing more work
Mounting rear bumper
Installing new BD chase lights
Installing new grill (see pic below)
Installing all new BD front lights
Installing new Headlights and tail lights (see pic below)
and a few little odds and ends
Anyway, here she is sitting on her own.
The tail lights you can see in the pics but here is what they look like from the site I ordered
and the headlights are these
And this is a pic of the grill idea, not a picture of my grill... but I'm doing the same thing.. with the OG FJ Toyota badge and everything
gonna give the truck a nice fresh new look!