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Factory HU to LC7i - Help

20K views 55 replies 4 participants last post by  jklearman 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been reading posts all weekend and cant seem to find what "I Think" I need
and was hoping ya'all could fill in the blanks for me.

Im going to upgrade the sound system in my 2016 Crewmax SR5, Non JBL.
Keeping the stock HU. Basically want a plug and play setup no cutting and soldering
or is this possible?

with these components
1.) FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY (dont believe these require brackets or addtl speaker harness)
2.) Audio Control LC7i - line output converter
3.) JBL Club 4505 5 - channel amp.
4.) Sub Woofer at a later date (thus the 5 channel amp)

Here where it all falls apart for me - LOL

I going to have a local installer do the work for me and do not want any of the factory harness's cut and soldered
I spoke to one local establishment and they said they wont do plug and play, that any connections cut will be soldered.
This was their only way to guarantee proper connections.

I know there are some of you who already done this cause I've seen posts where
harness adapter pics were posted but I either cant find them or I did and don't know that's what I need.

A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
D.) Am I missing anything ???

Anything else I don't know I need or thought of, please share.

Thanks so much - I do appreciate it.
 
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#2 ·
I did this to my 2017 non-JBL, I did a "plug in play" concept, just in case I decided I wanted to trade my truck in at some point.
Basically, I have the AC LC7i, Pioneer GM-D1004, polk and infinity speakers, and a pioneer sub, with my factory head unit. I also believe I used the same harness on the link you provided. I'll get back to you what I did.
 
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#3 ·
I'll answer your questions with what I did. Note I did everything myself and only soldered the output 4438 harness which connected to the outputs from the LC7i.
A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
Correct, this is the harness I used, I purchased the 4438. This provides access to the factory harness and allows you to connect to the LC7i and from the LC7i back to the factory harness, provided you want to utilize the factory speaker wires.

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
For myself, I connected my pioneer (front and rear) and kicker (sub) amps. The LC7i has preamp outputs, main outputs, channel 2 and channel 3. For my front and rear speakers I connected them to main and channel 2 outputs using RCA adapter to speaker wire. The sub amp I connected to channel 3 using an RCA cable.

C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
One of the harnesses from the 4438, you'll connect the wires from the aftermarket amp harness and connect them to the 4438 harness.

D.) Am I missing anything ???
I don't know so, but I'll go through what I had.
4438 harness
RCA adapter x 2 (front and rear / main and channel 2)
Amp installation kit for both amps.

I think that covers it, let me know if you have any other concerns. This installation is fairly simple. Note you don't have to solder the wires, however for the best connection and sound that's the route to go.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
The harness is a must so you can quickly go back to stock if you sell the truck.
If your local shop will not utilize the harness, find another shop or do it yourself.

There isn't much to it;
Door panels easily come off and go back on.
Your speakers, FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY, use all factory connections.

Pull the passenger seat and everything is right there.

You'll just need to run the power line for your amp from the battery.
You can ground the amp to the body under the passenger seat.
Just use one of the bolts/screws from the factory amp rack.

Plenty of threads that will walk you thru what you're wanting to do.


@dsharvey08 did you leave the dash speakers connected to the stock HU?
 
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#7 ·
Thank for the reply - im getting ready (today) to call another shop and send them the list I posted here and see what they say.
This shop has 4 locations in my area so I think they can do it. I actually spoke to their buyer in May about other components
and he never mentioned they couldnt do PNP.

We will see here by the end of the day.
Thanks again
 
#8 ·
@1lowlife Yes I kept the dash connected.
 
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#10 ·
I secured the LC7i atop the factory amp. The Pioneer GM D1004, I placed and secured near the factory amp. The kicker amp is located below the center rear passenger.
 
#11 ·
I made a 'mount' for my amp out of plastic cutting board.
It isn't the prettiest, but I figure who sees it?



Since I was digging thru pics, here is the amp line thru the firewall grommet.



 
#14 ·
1lowlife - thanks for the photo post - the visual helps alot.


So after two separate conversations with my other local shop, I have received a quote and I will share that with you all.
Hope you are sitting down or maybe having a cold one, this is about to get "REAL" Real expensive.

$2169.61 Installed... He ran down the list of costs for each component but I must have passed out somewhere along the way
cause the totals I have on paper are about $435.00 short of the total he quoted me.

Either way its not going to happen unless I can figure out how to do this myself. From the costs I got from
Crutchfield and Amazon the shop component prices are about $230.00 higher than what I can get them for today.

I can buy everything for approximately $964.00 plus the cost of whatever harness(s) and battery connections i may need and doesn't include some sort of
rack to mount the amp and LC7i to or a sub.
 
#15 ·
My local shop wanted $4000 to do what I originally wanted, I just looked at him and said "seriously?".
Come to find the sub he wanted to put in wouldn't have fit anyway.
He wanted 2 amps, mono and 4 channel, I ended up with one good Alpine 5 channel.

Although I've been tinkering in car audio since I put an underdash Pioneer FM/8-track in my 1967 Ford Fairlane (in 1978), you can probably do it yourself.
You don't have to solder your harness on, you can use crimp connectors or even Positaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Con...ords=positaps&qid=1564763023&s=gateway&sr=8-2

But there really isn't much to soldering and heat shrink wrap.
You should be doing all (or most) of your wire connections outside the vehicle using your harness and that makes things easier.
There are hundreds of YouTube videos that can teach you to solder and shrink wrap.

I use this Dremel solder iron you can also melt the shrink wrap with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-...l+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Although I bought the torch with it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-...der+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

To run your amp line, cut a small slit in that firewall grommet, and stick the line through.
I use these big 36" wire ties to fish wires around.
I've found several uses for these cable ties for other uses too so buying 25 of them isn't unreasonable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/25-Pack-36-in-Nylon-Heavy-duty-Cable-Ties/3620800

You can run the line behind the dash, down the console, and then under the passenger seat.
The entire console doesn't have to come out, just take the top off.

Console removal.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-general-discussion/306370-2014-center-console-removal.html

I ran mine down the side and under the driver's seat, under the console to the pass seat.
Instead of a fused power block under the seat, I mounted a 2 fuse block in the engine compartment as pictured in my above post.
It actually has 2 fuses in it if I ever need another battery connection, as well for awhile I had 2 amps..

I'd replace the speakers first and see how it sounds, just to see the difference.
Or at least do it yourself to save on shop labor.
The door panels come of very easily and your speakers will swap right out.
Just be careful, especially when remove the switch panels, that door panel plastic scratches very easily.

A cheap set of trim removal tools will be needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front panel removal


Rear panel removal


I sometimes feel I should have bought those speakers instead of the Focal I bought.
I bought better(?) Focal speakers, but had to make adapters and find a place for the front component crossovers, etc..


Do a search on the forum for LC6i and LC7i and your find several threads on these units and installation.

At least you have that harness available.
Many of us have to make our own..:eek:

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/t...n/373441-2014-factory-amp-wiring-diagram.html

Good luck..
 
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#16 ·
My local shop wanted $4000 to do what I originally wanted, I just looked at him and said "seriously?".
Come to find the sub he wanted to put in wouldn't have fit anyway.
He wanted 2 amps, mono and 4 channel, I ended up with one good Alpine 5 channel.

Although I've been tinkering in car audio since I put an underdash Pioneer FM/8-track in my 1967 Ford Fairlane (in 1978), you can probably do it yourself.
You don't have to solder your harness on, you can use crimp connectors or even Positaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Con...ords=positaps&qid=1564763023&s=gateway&sr=8-2

But there really isn't much to soldering and heat shrink wrap.
You should be doing all (or most) of your wire connections outside the vehicle using your harness and that makes things easier.
There are hundreds of YouTube videos that can teach you to solder and shrink wrap.

I use this Dremel solder iron you can also melt the shrink wrap with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-...l+solder+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Although I bought the torch with it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-...der+iron&qid=1564764612&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

To run your amp line, cut a small slit in that firewall grommet, and stick the line through.
I use these big 36" wire ties to fish wires around.
I've found several uses for these cable ties for other uses too so buying 25 of them isn't unreasonable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/25-Pack-36-in-Nylon-Heavy-duty-Cable-Ties/3620800

You can run the line behind the dash, down the console, and then under the passenger seat.
The entire console doesn't have to come out, just take the top off.

Console removal.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-general-discussion/306370-2014-center-console-removal.html

I ran mine down the side and under the driver's seat, under the console to the pass seat.
Instead of a fused power block under the seat, I mounted a 2 fuse block in the engine compartment as pictured in my above post.
It actually has 2 fuses in it if I ever need another battery connection, as well for awhile I had 2 amps..

I'd replace the speakers first and see how it sounds, just to see the difference.
Or at least do it yourself to save on shop labor.
The door panels come of very easily and your speakers will swap right out.
Just be careful, especially when remove the switch panels, that door panel plastic scratches very easily.

A cheap set of trim removal tools will be needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front panel removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KHUaUM_q28

Rear panel removal
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwp_6jSbnms

I sometimes feel I should have bought those speakers instead of the Focal I bought.
I bought better(?) Focal speakers, but had to make adapters and find a place for the front component crossovers, etc..


Do a search on the forum for LC6i and LC7i and your find several threads on these units and installation.

At least you have that harness available.
Many of us have to make our own..:eek:

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/t...n/373441-2014-factory-amp-wiring-diagram.html

Good luck..
Thanks man - I do appreciate all the input.
 
#19 ·
New plan maybe -

Think I might start with the LC7i and the Amp first
These two should be straight PNP as noted previously
Then replace the speakers as I roast the factory cheapies..

I can get a used LC7i for $100.00 and the amp for $198.00 all free shipping.
 
#21 ·
Ordered the lc7i, found a new unit on eBay for $124 and got the Kenwood Excelon X801-5 for $180 on Crutchfield. The price went up on the JBL Club 4505 s o had to shop for something comparable. Now g gotta get those plugs...
 
#22 ·
Did a test today. Unplugged the factory amp to verify only dash speakers work, no doors.... To my surprise, my 3 dash speakers and the two tweeters in the rear doors worked, nothing else.

Also a question - Do I need to re-arraigne the wires by color in the large Metra plug or will everything work as is. Any side affects if I don't re-arrainge them?
 
#23 ·
Huh..
My non-JBL double cab doesn't have rear tweeters, I guess the crewmax does for that big back seat.
You don't have front door tweeters thought right?

Not sure about wiring the Metra plug, I've never seen one.
Hopefully someone else will chime in..
 
#35 ·
1Lowlife or dsharvey08

Quick question - is it my understanding that the pin chart posted,
when the pin description states "Signal" that means those are for the line out converter
and "SPEAKER" those pins/wires are for the Amp?

If "yes" looks like all the LOC connections come from the J144
and the speakers out are a mixture of J144 and J145.

Is this correct?

Thanks
 
#37 ·
You are more than welcome.
So glad it worked out.
I was gonna feel like sh!t if it didn't work out since I talked you into to doing it yourself.

Your install looks good.:)
I dare say you did a better a job than some local shops would have done.

The best thing is you know how everything works and how it is wired.

Be safe...
 
#39 ·
May have spoken too quick. Found out the fade front to rear isnt right. I got sound from fronts and rears, just fade isn't right. Sounds as if all sound is based on channel 2, which according to wiring, is the rears coming from harness.

1lowlife - does your fade work like it should?
 
#40 ·
I now have an aftermarket HU with RCA cable run to the amp.
So yes my fader works.

So balance from left to right works in dash, front and rear speakers?
All right or left speakers play appropriately?

Your dash speakers should work when faded to front on the HU.
I'm not sure about the rear door tweeters,
I'm assuming they are connected to the head unit like the dash speakers are.

What happens when you fade to back?
Do the front doors still produce sound?

What happens when you fade to front?
Do the rear doors play?
 
#44 · (Edited)
It has nothing to do with the factory amp, I did the same thing you are doing on my 2014 SR5 and it worked.

Try moving the summing jumper and see if it changes anything, if not put it back.

If that doesn't change it;
I know you said you checked your connections, but I think something is wired wrong.
SOMETHING is combining the front and rear signals and that is why you can't fade. otherwise your fader would work.
If you have all 4 of your front signal leads into the main channel, and all 4 of your rear signal leads into channel 2, there is no way the fader wouldn't work.

So, maybe your connections are correct according to the wiring charts found, but what if the wiring charts are not correct.
You're going to have to check each and every signal wire to make sure what is what.

I would set the HU unit fader/balance on front left, test every pair of the 8 signal wires, with a speaker until it produces sound.
Find the 2 wires that make that speaker work, then use some masking tape and a pen or whatever to label it.
Then do the same thing setting the HU on front right, rear left, and rear right.

I know that sounds like a pain in the ass, but I do remember having the same issue you are having with the fader.
I also remember it took me awhile to figure out the problem, I just can't remember exactly what the problem was.

If you're OK with what you have then stick with it.
But the fader will work correctly as long as the wiring is correct and the main and 2nd channels are not summed together.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/radio-fader-problem.415833/
 
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#45 ·
I see we hangout at the same places...lol

I will do exactly that. I was trying to figure out how, until I read this... Im such a noob to this stuff, never thought of the spare speaker approach.
I changed the jumper yesterday as you noted, no change, and put it back to separate/default.

Thanks for the help - I will do that, might not be till this weekend, depending on how much time I can free up.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Update: No change !

Removed the additional wire leads I soldered on to the harness so everything would reach.

Tested actual leads with a small 4 inch speaker, for front/rear, left and right. All the leads
check out correctly.

I re-soldered 6 inch leads back on and retested, all wire leads check out correctly so I re-connected
everything and no change... Still fade left and right correctly, just not front/rear...

So - Im sending the LOC back for an exchange. If this doesnt solve it. Im good.
We have terrific sound at all points, just with a touch of OCD, the front/rear fade is messing with me...:lol:

Still a good investment and Im happy with the results.

WAIT ONE MINUTE !
Think something is crossed on the amp output side. Take a look at the stock amp pic!

So on my harness at the amp, I attached the front and rear positives and front and rear negatives and plugged them into the bottom four slots - which is "B" side.
thinking the top was only bridged, even though I dont know what bridged means and its marked "A".

I bet thats not correct, is it?

"A" would be FRONT and "B" would be REAR, based on how my RCA's are ran.
I need to undo my pigtail and have separate wires again....
 

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#49 ·
Pretty sure you just found your problem.
If you have all 4 speakers on the bottom row, then of course your fader wouldn't work.

If channel A is your front input, your front speakers need to be connected to top row.
Then Channel B would be your rear, those speakers need to be connected to the bottom row.

Bridging is this;

I'm not exactly sure which amp you have as far as wattage output, so lets say your 5 channel amp puts out 100 watts in each channel A and B and 500 watts in the sub channel.

Channel A - 2 pr of outputs - 1 pr left 1 pr right - 2 channels
Channel B - 2 pr of outputs - 1 pr left 1 pr right - 2 channels
Sub - 1 pr of outputs


Not including the sub channel, you have capability for 4 channel output at 100 watts.
Bridging is using this amp as a 2 channel amp and doubling the wattage output to 200 watts for each of the 2 channels instead of 4 channels..
To do that you would wire your speakers like the diagram reads.
You would bridge if you were only connecting 2 speakers (plus the sub) to this amp and using it as a 2 channel amp.


Once you get this going you'll need to watch some videos or articles on setting your gains (input sensitivity).
Here is one;
https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/video-setting-your-amps-gain-control.html

Also watch some videos or articles on setting your crossovers (HPF and LPF filters)
HPF setting will take the lowest frequencies out of the door speakers and let you sub do that work.
LPF will take the higher frequencies out of the sub to prevent distortion.

Don't ever overwhelmed by the real technical stuff videos.
Just find some videos that explain it in simple terms.
 
#50 ·
#53 ·
Replicating your Install

1lowlife, I've reviewed your Focal install on your double cab. It's outstanding. I just purchased a '19 DC Limited. I traded an '11 DC. Do you think the door panel mods you made will be essentially the same on a '19? I'm not familiar with what Toyota may have done between your Tundra model year and the '19. I'm going to essentially replicate your buildout with the same exact Focals. I'll install the JL Stealthbox for the Tundra as well under the rear seat. Thanks much.. John
 
#54 ·
1lowlife, I've reviewed your Focal install on your double cab. It's outstanding. I just purchased a '19 DC Limited. I traded an '11 DC. Do you think the door panel mods you made will be essentially the same on a '19? I'm not familiar with what Toyota may have done between your Tundra model year and the '19. I'm going to essentially replicate your buildout with the same exact Focals. I'll install the JL Stealthbox for the Tundra as well under the rear seat. Thanks much.. John
I wouldn't think the door depths would be any different, it's pretty much the same truck..
That 3/4' MDF worked fine for me.
I haven't taken the door panels off in awhile but they seem to be holding up.
 
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