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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Factory HU to LC7i - Help

I've been reading posts all weekend and cant seem to find what "I Think" I need
and was hoping ya'all could fill in the blanks for me.

Im going to upgrade the sound system in my 2016 Crewmax SR5, Non JBL.
Keeping the stock HU. Basically want a plug and play setup no cutting and soldering
or is this possible?

with these components
1.) FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY (dont believe these require brackets or addtl speaker harness)
2.) Audio Control LC7i - line output converter
3.) JBL Club 4505 5 - channel amp.
4.) Sub Woofer at a later date (thus the 5 channel amp)

Here where it all falls apart for me - LOL

I going to have a local installer do the work for me and do not want any of the factory harness's cut and soldered
I spoke to one local establishment and they said they wont do plug and play, that any connections cut will be soldered.
This was their only way to guarantee proper connections.

I know there are some of you who already done this cause I've seen posts where
harness adapter pics were posted but I either cant find them or I did and don't know that's what I need.

A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
D.) Am I missing anything ???

Anything else I don't know I need or thought of, please share.

Thanks so much - I do appreciate it.

2016 SR5 CrewMax 4x4

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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 01:16 PM
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I did this to my 2017 non-JBL, I did a "plug in play" concept, just in case I decided I wanted to trade my truck in at some point.
Basically, I have the AC LC7i, Pioneer GM-D1004, polk and infinity speakers, and a pioneer sub, with my factory head unit. I also believe I used the same harness on the link you provided. I'll get back to you what I did.

2017 Tundra CrewMax TRD, Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP Front/Rear
METHOD MR311
, Falken Wildpeak AT3/W LT315/70R17
ABS Mesh Grill w/ Amber LEDS, Extreme LED 40" SR Bar, 30" DR LED Bar & BlackOak LED Pods
R.I. Ignite Flush Mount (Backup), SuperBrightLEDS Headlight H4 Kit
Rough Country Soft Tri-Fold Tonneau, UnderCover Swing Case
Polk Audio DB+ & Infinity Reference 6032cf powered by Pioneer GM D1004
Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10" Subwoofer powered by Kicker (43CXa300.1) CX Series
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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 10:57 AM
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I'll answer your questions with what I did. Note I did everything myself and only soldered the output 4438 harness which connected to the outputs from the LC7i.
A.) What harness will I need to go from the head unit factory harness into the LC7i ?
is this the harness(s) I'll need for this connection - https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
Correct, this is the harness I used, I purchased the 4438. This provides access to the factory harness and allows you to connect to the LC7i and from the LC7i back to the factory harness, provided you want to utilize the factory speaker wires.

B.) Then from the LC7i into the amp?
For myself, I connected my pioneer (front and rear) and kicker (sub) amps. The LC7i has preamp outputs, main outputs, channel 2 and channel 3. For my front and rear speakers I connected them to main and channel 2 outputs using RCA adapter to speaker wire. The sub amp I connected to channel 3 using an RCA cable.

C.) Out from the amp to the factory speaker harness?
One of the harnesses from the 4438, you'll connect the wires from the aftermarket amp harness and connect them to the 4438 harness.

D.) Am I missing anything ???
I don't know so, but I'll go through what I had.
4438 harness
RCA adapter x 2 (front and rear / main and channel 2)
Amp installation kit for both amps.

I think that covers it, let me know if you have any other concerns. This installation is fairly simple. Note you don't have to solder the wires, however for the best connection and sound that's the route to go.

2017 Tundra CrewMax TRD, Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP Front/Rear
METHOD MR311
, Falken Wildpeak AT3/W LT315/70R17
ABS Mesh Grill w/ Amber LEDS, Extreme LED 40" SR Bar, 30" DR LED Bar & BlackOak LED Pods
R.I. Ignite Flush Mount (Backup), SuperBrightLEDS Headlight H4 Kit
Rough Country Soft Tri-Fold Tonneau, UnderCover Swing Case
Polk Audio DB+ & Infinity Reference 6032cf powered by Pioneer GM D1004
Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10" Subwoofer powered by Kicker (43CXa300.1) CX Series
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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsharvey08 View Post
I did this to my 2017 non-JBL, I did a "plug in play" concept, just in case I decided I wanted to trade my truck in at some point.
Basically, I have the AC LC7i, Pioneer GM-D1004, polk and infinity speakers, and a pioneer sub, with my factory head unit. I also believe I used the same harness on the link you provided. I'll get back to you what I did.

Thanks for the reply

Did you notice a big improvement in sound and quality ?
Did you DIY or use a local installer?

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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplenova View Post
Thanks for the reply

Did you notice a big improvement in sound and quality ?
Did you DIY or use a local installer?
Absolutely, quality was excellent. I've never had a vehicle with a factory system. This is the only vehicle were I utilized the factory HU and harness to the front and rear speakers.
I've also read through here and other forums, simply adding a better amp improves the sound as well.


I DIY, it's pretty easy. I would start by drawing a basic schematic. The only part that I would state that is annoying is getting the power and ground wires for the amps through the firewall.

2017 Tundra CrewMax TRD, Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP Front/Rear
METHOD MR311
, Falken Wildpeak AT3/W LT315/70R17
ABS Mesh Grill w/ Amber LEDS, Extreme LED 40" SR Bar, 30" DR LED Bar & BlackOak LED Pods
R.I. Ignite Flush Mount (Backup), SuperBrightLEDS Headlight H4 Kit
Rough Country Soft Tri-Fold Tonneau, UnderCover Swing Case
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Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10" Subwoofer powered by Kicker (43CXa300.1) CX Series
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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 01:41 PM
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The harness is a must so you can quickly go back to stock if you sell the truck.
If your local shop will not utilize the harness, find another shop or do it yourself.

There isn't much to it;
Door panels easily come off and go back on.
Your speakers, FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY, use all factory connections.

Pull the passenger seat and everything is right there.

You'll just need to run the power line for your amp from the battery.
You can ground the amp to the body under the passenger seat.
Just use one of the bolts/screws from the factory amp rack.

Plenty of threads that will walk you thru what you're wanting to do.


@dsharvey08 did you leave the dash speakers connected to the stock HU?

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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1lowlife View Post
The harness is a must so you can quickly go back to stock if you sell the truck.
If your local shop will not utilize the harness, find another shop or do it yourself.

There isn't much to it;
Door panels easily come off and go back on.
Your speakers, FoCal IC 690TOY & IS 165TOY, use all factory connections.

Pull the passenger seat and everything is right there.

You'll just need to run the power line for your amp from the battery.
You can ground the amp to the body under the passenger seat.
Just use one of the bolts/screws from the factory amp rack.

Plenty of threads that will walk you thru what you're wanting to do.


@dsharvey08 did you leave the dash speakers connected to the stock HU?
Thank for the reply - im getting ready (today) to call another shop and send them the list I posted here and see what they say.
This shop has 4 locations in my area so I think they can do it. I actually spoke to their buyer in May about other components
and he never mentioned they couldnt do PNP.

We will see here by the end of the day.
Thanks again

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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 02:37 PM
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@1lowlife Yes I kept the dash connected.

2017 Tundra CrewMax TRD, Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP Front/Rear
METHOD MR311
, Falken Wildpeak AT3/W LT315/70R17
ABS Mesh Grill w/ Amber LEDS, Extreme LED 40" SR Bar, 30" DR LED Bar & BlackOak LED Pods
R.I. Ignite Flush Mount (Backup), SuperBrightLEDS Headlight H4 Kit
Rough Country Soft Tri-Fold Tonneau, UnderCover Swing Case
Polk Audio DB+ & Infinity Reference 6032cf powered by Pioneer GM D1004
Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10" Subwoofer powered by Kicker (43CXa300.1) CX Series
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Did either of you use an amp rack or something similar to mount the amp and lc7i?

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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by purplenova View Post
Did either of you use an amp rack or something similar to mount the amp and lc7i?
I secured the LC7i atop the factory amp. The Pioneer GM D1004, I placed and secured near the factory amp. The kicker amp is located below the center rear passenger.

2017 Tundra CrewMax TRD, Fox 2.0 Performance Series IFP Front/Rear
METHOD MR311
, Falken Wildpeak AT3/W LT315/70R17
ABS Mesh Grill w/ Amber LEDS, Extreme LED 40" SR Bar, 30" DR LED Bar & BlackOak LED Pods
R.I. Ignite Flush Mount (Backup), SuperBrightLEDS Headlight H4 Kit
Rough Country Soft Tri-Fold Tonneau, UnderCover Swing Case
Polk Audio DB+ & Infinity Reference 6032cf powered by Pioneer GM D1004
Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10" Subwoofer powered by Kicker (43CXa300.1) CX Series
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post #11 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 12:23 PM
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I made a 'mount' for my amp out of plastic cutting board.
It isn't the prettiest, but I figure who sees it?



Since I was digging thru pics, here is the amp line thru the firewall grommet.




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Originally Posted by dsharvey08 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplenova View Post
Did either of you use an amp rack or something similar to mount the amp and lc7i?
I secured the LC7i atop the factory amp. The Pioneer GM D1004, I placed and secured near the factory amp. The kicker amp is located below the center rear passenger.
So you kept the factory amp and hooked the LC7I to it ???

Man im really confused...lol

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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 03:31 AM
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So you kept the factory amp and hooked the LC7I to it ???

Man im really confused...lol
No way, I'd hope not.
Now I can see removing the factory amp and maybe mounting your amp to it's mount.
But I can't remember what it looks like.

Your Entune HU should be directly connected to the LC7i (using your adapter under the pass seat), then your LC7i connected to the amp (with RCA cables). then your speakers connected to your amp.
With the adapter we discussed earlier, you should have every thing you need including power for the LC7i and a remote on for the amp.
Also front and rear right and left input from the HU and door speaker output from your amp all thru that adapter.

You just need to run the line from the battery to power the amp and ground it under the seat (with a good big solid ground).

Since you're totally bypassing the factory amp, I see no reason to have it in the truck.
Unplug it, take it out, and set it aside...

I first ran an LC6i with the Entune, but wasn't happy with the results and ended up with an aftermarket HU.
I'm hoping you can make the Entune work with your LC7i and have it fit your needs.




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1lowlife - thanks for the photo post - the visual helps alot.


So after two separate conversations with my other local shop, I have received a quote and I will share that with you all.
Hope you are sitting down or maybe having a cold one, this is about to get "REAL" Real expensive.

$2169.61 Installed... He ran down the list of costs for each component but I must have passed out somewhere along the way
cause the totals I have on paper are about $435.00 short of the total he quoted me.

Either way its not going to happen unless I can figure out how to do this myself. From the costs I got from
Crutchfield and Amazon the shop component prices are about $230.00 higher than what I can get them for today.

I can buy everything for approximately $964.00 plus the cost of whatever harness(s) and battery connections i may need and doesn't include some sort of
rack to mount the amp and LC7i to or a sub.

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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 01:05 PM
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My local shop wanted $4000 to do what I originally wanted, I just looked at him and said "seriously?".
Come to find the sub he wanted to put in wouldn't have fit anyway.
He wanted 2 amps, mono and 4 channel, I ended up with one good Alpine 5 channel.

Although I've been tinkering in car audio since I put an underdash Pioneer FM/8-track in my 1967 Ford Fairlane (in 1978), you can probably do it yourself.
You don't have to solder your harness on, you can use crimp connectors or even Positaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conn...gateway&sr=8-2

But there really isn't much to soldering and heat shrink wrap.
You should be doing all (or most) of your wire connections outside the vehicle using your harness and that makes things easier.
There are hundreds of YouTube videos that can teach you to solder and shrink wrap.

I use this Dremel solder iron you can also melt the shrink wrap with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-0...gateway&sr=8-1

Although I bought the torch with it as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-0...ay&sr=8-1&th=1

To run your amp line, cut a small slit in that firewall grommet, and stick the line through.
I use these big 36" wire ties to fish wires around.
I've found several uses for these cable ties for other uses too so buying 25 of them isn't unreasonable.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/25-Pack-36-...e-Ties/3620800

You can run the line behind the dash, down the console, and then under the passenger seat.
The entire console doesn't have to come out, just take the top off.

Console removal.

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...e-removal.html

I ran mine down the side and under the driver's seat, under the console to the pass seat.
Instead of a fused power block under the seat, I mounted a 2 fuse block in the engine compartment as pictured in my above post.
It actually has 2 fuses in it if I ever need another battery connection, as well for awhile I had 2 amps..

I'd replace the speakers first and see how it sounds, just to see the difference.
Or at least do it yourself to save on shop labor.
The door panels come of very easily and your speakers will swap right out.
Just be careful, especially when remove the switch panels, that door panel plastic scratches very easily.

A cheap set of trim removal tools will be needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front panel removal

Rear panel removal

I sometimes feel I should have bought those speakers instead of the Focal I bought.
I bought better(?) Focal speakers, but had to make adapters and find a place for the front component crossovers, etc..


Do a search on the forum for LC6i and LC7i and your find several threads on these units and installation.

At least you have that harness available.
Many of us have to make our own..

https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...g-diagram.html

Good luck..

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