Dead battery after installing Kenwood w/iDatalink - - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Dead battery after installing Kenwood w/iDatalink

I recently purchased a Kenwood DMX7705S headunit from Crutchfield. The radio also came with the iDatalink Maestro HRN-RR-TO1. As far as I can tell I connected all the plugs between the head unit - Maestro - Tundra (2010 SR5 4x4 ExtCab). The issue I keep having is the truck will not start if I haven't driven it for more than a few days (it's not my daily driver). Working with Crutchfield support we tried many things - removing fuses, re-setting the iDatalink, and then finally completely replacing the headunit, iDatalink, and wiring harness. When the fuses were removed - 1 for the radio, 1 for the whole center console - a DMM showed no drain on the battery. Putting the center console fuse back in show no drain, but putting the radio fuse back in show a drain. Something in the setup from Crutchfield was not working correctly. That's when they decided to replace everything. Now it's been more than a month since everything was replaced and I thought that the problem was resolved. I didn't drive the truck for the past week and now it won't start. Also, the first time it died on me, I replaced the battery (it was several years old).
I'm at a loss for what could be causing the dead battery, other than the iDatalink/Radio/Wiring harness are not compatible with a 2010 Tundra. What can I try next? I'm about ready to give up on this radio and go back to the stock radio. I need my truck to start anytime I want to use it. :-(
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 03:53 AM
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You have something wired incorrectly.

Did you install the Kenwood HU and Maestro, or did a shop install it?

If you did, you need to check and recheck your wiring, even if you already did that.
If a shop installed it, they fu(ked something up.

On my 5 years on this forum, I've never seen your issue.

I have the Maestro and Pioneer HU (first had a Kenwood) in my 2014 and have no issues with unknown battery draw.
Several other members will tell you the same thing.

If you used OEM wiring for speakers and such, put the OEM HU back in and see if the problem persists.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 05:25 PM
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Use a relay

Heres a solution.

If the radio wire you are talking about is always "HI" even if the truck is off, try this. Its not elegant but it will work.

If you really like your new setup and want to keep what you just bought. Use a relay.

Connect the relay to a wire that is hot only when the key is in the on/run position (somewhere in the fuse block under the dash). Hook up the relay so that when it closes (truck is on) power is sent to the wire of your head units radio fuse. (you'll use the normally opened wires on the relay)

When the truck is off the relay opens and the radio wire is disconnected from the power source.

This is assuming your presets and clock are powered thru the center console fuse/wire. You don't want to keep having to reset them every time you turn the truck on. (bummer)

If you don't want to use a mechanical relay you could use an SCR (Shockley diode) but that would require a pull up resistor and a little more design work.

Good luck

Last edited by kajmaya; 05-23-2019 at 05:29 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 02:51 PM
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I just got another thought. Disconnect the radio wire. Then put a meter on it. Turn the truck off and see what the voltage is. If it reads 12v then you have another problem and its probably has nothing to do with the new head unit. Perhaps a the wiring harness.
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