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2014 Front Mount Camera OEM style - HEAVY PICS

43K views 123 replies 36 participants last post by  keyth99 
#1 · (Edited)
First off I would like to give credit where it is due. First I would like to thank @2euro for his postings, videos and answering my PM’s. He was the reason I knew this project was doable. Next I would like to thank @tillithz. His postings with how to wire the 2014 were truly critical.

**REFERENCE
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/interior-mods/269225-2014-backup-camera-anytime.html
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-build-logs/160434-2euros-build-log.html

So what did I do? I have an anytime front mounted camera working with the OEM non-navigation Entune as well as anytime backup camera. Aside from the switch (and camera of course) it looks completely stock.

What I bought (part 1)
Camera
Amazon.com : Vehicle Front View Camera for Toyota Prado Highlander Land Cruiser : Vehicle Backup Cameras : Car Electronics

Video “merger” (option 1)
Amazon.com: Nippon Labs RCA-1F2F RCA Adapter RCA 1 Female to 2 RCA Female: Electronics

Video Controller (option 2)
Amazon.com : Intelligent Car Video Switcher 3-way Input 1-way Output for the Car Camera : Vehicle Backup Cameras : Car Electronics

Diodes
Amazon.com : Install Bay Diodes 1 Amp 20 Pack -D1 : Vehicle Receiver Installation Tools : Car Electronics

RCA to Wire converters
Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapts High Level Speaker to Low Level RCA Adapter: Car Electronics

SPDT Switch
Amazon.com: JR Products 13835 Black Water Resistant SPDT On/Off/On Switch: Automotive

At this point I am at around $55. Throw in a few packs of heat-shrink and butt connectors and that will put it at $65.

Now for the design, I completely ripped off 2euro with his drawing and made my own. This is a rough sketch.


The ‘thing’ in the middle is the RCA splitter, or as I am calling it, the merger. I tested this inside my house with the tv. The splitter actually functions like a hub where an input from 1 connection will go out the other two connections, no matter what is plugged in. There would never be an instance where both cameras would be on at the same time. Again I tested and it worked flawlessly.

I also decided to switch the direction of the diode on the right side of the page. I was looking to confirm the direction and a few Prius and 4Runner threads confirmed.

The other item I left off the diagram was I connected to the ACC+ (grey) on the back of the stereo to go to the middle pin on the switch. That provides my power for the front camera. The backup camera gets its power switched through the stereo (PS – this comes back to haunt me).

OK, First thing is to mount the switch. I looked at the left side of the steering wheel and then under the stereo but on the right side of the steering wheel, where the proximity parking assist would be, was blank (YEA SR5!!).

Trimming was involved:


I then found I had to trim more and then I started to get nervous and looked at the switch itself and saw some stray pieces of plastic that I could trim off…. … The whole damn switch fell apart!!! I ran out to the garage and with my trusty soldering pen, practiced some scarification on the switch to melt plastic and bond it to other melted plastic. It worked…. It was just quite scary looking. So after more trimming, ‘plastic surgery’ and trimming the wrong port (look next to the switch), I got it to fit.


What it looks like from the front.


And then in the truck


Next up is mounting the camera...
 
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#34 ·
I just saw the OPs sig and it made me laugh cuz its so true.


5" iBoard Running Boards <- ice trays of DEATH
 
#37 ·
I'm trying not to spend any money....

I'm trying real hard to be the shepherd

 
#39 ·
thanks for the heads-up!

I like the purple wire idea! Thinking of doing the same!

Btw, I've got a bit of an issue. While working on getting the dash switch in the dash, accidentally shorted the 12V feed coming from the head unit (Grey Wire). Although i've proven the head unit is okay, for some reason the Grey wire no longer shows 12v when the key is in the ACC or the truck is running.

i checked all the fuses, but they all test GOOD. So.. at a loss as to what i may have blown since the Grey wire no longer has 12V

help!
 
#40 ·
according to the wiring diagram it comes from the ACC fuse 7.5 amp. did you double check that one? It's a straight shot through one connector.
 
#41 ·
sub'd
 
#43 ·
do you have a multi meter or troubleshooting light? cause it could be before the ACC fuse
 
#44 ·
Looks like there is a ACC relay that is powered from 7.5amp fuse called AM1. I think that also powers your ignition so, that's probably not it, if you can start the car.
 
#46 · (Edited)
You need to check for 12vdc to figure out which direction to go. You need to measure both sides of the acc fuse with the key in the acc position with one lead going to ground.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Got it.. I should have some time to spend on troubleshooting tonight. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the tip.

So.. I found that all fuses showing +12V on one side, also showed the same on the other side. A few were inactive till the key was in the on/started position. So.. thinking all looks good there.

Next.. .was going to start testing relays. But, don't see one that appears to be for the head unit. Also, i can't imagine that the head unit could be drawing the amount of current that would require use of a relay. But.. could be wrong here.

I am temped to just run ACC power from somewhere else (the cig lighter for example) to the Grey wire and be done with it since I can't find anything else that doesn't work. However, I'd rather fix the problem and not do this.
 
#48 ·
Problem Solved! As you said, ACC fuse 7.5 amp was blown.

So.. when I started troubleshooting this issue, I quickly looked under the dash - driver's side, for the fuse box. Nothing obvious showed itself. I did a bit of Google searching and found where someone had said that Toyota had relocated it under the hood to make room for the driver's side knee airbag. And.. EVERYTHING you find on the Internet is true/correct. :-/

As a result, I just assumed that the fuse box under the hood was the only one. What was bothering me was that you had said that there was a fuse labeled ACC. But.. although there were 7.5 amp fuses, there were none labeled "ACC". After doing more Google'ing, I found another post where it was argued that there IS, indeed, still a small fuse box tucked under the driver's side dash. I crawled under with my flashlight and.. VOILA! There it was!! Son-of-a-BITCH!!! I quickly located the 7.5 fuse labeled ACC and as suspected.. it was blown. I swapped it out and BAM! Head unit works! And.. so does my wiring for the switch and front/back cameras. PHEW!!!! All is now right again with the world.

Got the camera mounted into the grill. Last order of business, get the switch mounted. I WILL be paying careful attention not to short the circuit and blow the fuse again. When done.. will post pics.

Thanks Wes977 for your help. I'm a dumbass!
 
#49 ·
Problem Solved! As you said, ACC fuse 7.5 amp was blown.
good to hear you got it.

I just did my install and it was more of a pain than i thought.

One thing i did was extend everything down so my video switcher is below my cup holders so i can upgrade easier later. Every thing went perfect except my switch was backwards from front to back. Easy fix. The switch may work differently than i expected. I tested my setup multiple times and i do believe my drawing to be correct and only need 2 diodes.
 
#50 ·
Not a bad idea situating the video switch there. I'm still contemplating how to use the vacant switch port. I'd like to be able to run my iPHone to it and put another on/off switch down near the cig lighter port like KSpann mentioned in an earlier post. I've got a blanker there.
 
#51 ·
Thanks for everyone who posted with awesome info to help me get this mod done.
 
#53 ·
I'm digging through the wiring diagrams and my Question.

What signal comes over to dim the radio when you turn the lights on? I sometimes don't want it to dim, like in a rain storm.
 
#55 ·
Has anyone dug in to this for a 2016 Pro with navigation? I've seen posts in other forums that imply some issue with doing this on a HU with nav, but I can't imagine why it would not work.

Perhaps wiring is different? Perhaps no RCA jacks? Just wanting to avoid tearing dash apart and finding no matches :)
 
#57 · (Edited)
I did it on my 2016 twice and the navigation should not make any difference on those wires. The wiring is almost identical. What I used was the 2015 wiring diagram.

This is not an easy install, cutting and splicing is required. There are no RCA jacks on the factory radio.



This is the nav drawings:
Text Diagram Line Parallel Plan


Text Diagram Parallel Line Font


Text Line Diagram Parallel
 
#56 ·
I'd like to add a front camera but I'm not feeling a need to have the backup camera on when I'm not in reverse.

Does the HU switch to camera mode when it detects a video input? Or does it have to see +12V on the reverse pin as well?

On J1, red V+ is camera signal, white V- is camera ground, right? What is black CA+?
 
#58 · (Edited)
It has to get that +12V on the reverse pin. You would need to do this full install to get the front camera working at anytime.

For a 2014+ the camera wiring red(V+) is your center pin and white(V-) is your shield you use. Black is 5v+. I didn't touch the black. My front camera uses 12+ so I had to tap off the acc input to the radio. It's in the drawing I made.
 
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#60 · (Edited)
Thanks Wes977. I received my switcher last week. Still awaiting the camera and dash switch. I'm pretty familiar with splicing techniques, as long as I know I'm splicing the right stuff. :)

I guess I inferred too much from previous posts that the the rear cam had a RCA joint some place in the wiring.

Where did you find your jacks and gender changers, radio shack? Along those same lines, any recommended diode part numbers?

Thanks for the details, this is a great thread.
 
#61 · (Edited)
If you know how to solder, it is the best method. If you do solder I recommend heat shrink or liquid electrical tape. I don't like using just electrical tap. That's the route I went. My video switcher is down there under my gear shifter. I think it makes a cleaner install if you route the cables properly and easier to upgrade later if need be. I put those connections in the drawings, so people know which connector of the video switcher to use.




For diodes: This is what people are using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068AEU0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1







This is the video I used to remove my radio.

I did not unplug my battery, there is very little risk messing it up if you have the key out.



Oh and one word of advice. Don't worry about the gear shift override step. Just set your parking brake with the truck off but in the run position on your ignition, unscrew the shifter handle, push your brake and shift to drive. Then pull off your center panel, shift back to park and take your key out. Do it in reverse on the way back together. Put a towel over the gear shifter to rest the radio on while you unplug it. The first time I did the install, it was with the radio still cabled up. It was much easier on the second time with the radio removed. While unplugging some of the connectors are a pita, but I still recommend it. I think all of the connectors are different sizes. Probably a good idea to snap a picture before removing.
 
#64 · (Edited)
here's how I did it

Mandatory credit to @kspann, @tillithz, @2euro, and @Wes977. I took your diagrams and pictures, and made it something I could understand. I know I'm not really contributing, but creating this helped me out. Maybe it'll help others.

Text Diagram Line Font Design


Rev Cam Harness, $19.95
Video Input Switcher, $24.96
Front Cam, $19.99
Diodes, $5.61
SPDT, $8.42
Display Harness, $49
HDMI to RCA, $13.99
HDMI Switcher, $8.99
USB Power, $2.86 <-- EDIT: dont use this, it took forever to come in.

Walmart Items:
wire connectors
RCA couplers X2
RCA cables x5
Chromecast (or Apple TV/ROKU/Fire Stick/MHL/PS4/etc)

Notes:
-No OEM wires were cut or spliced!
-HDMI Switcher has my Chromecast in first port, plugging/removing anything in second port auto-switches input
-Display Harness has built in RCA input and VSS disconnect coupler
-VSS disconnect switch unnecessary -- been driving disconnected a few weeks, GPS still works
--GPS guidance on instrument cluster work, but still require full stop to access "Settings" menu
-Connecting Display Harness automatically adds "A/V" option to factory HU
-Rev Cam Harness has built in RCA M/F connectors
-Front Cam guides me to about 8" from front obstacle, then I can accept that or chance a few more inches
-USB power connected to accessory outlet, noted Chromecast reset when I plugged an inverter to same outlet
-Several expansion options still to be used, as well as other options
--Ran a fused 12V+ to console area to accommodate expansion options

Let me know if you have any questions or tests you would like me to try. Looking to install a 500W inverter, projector, cab camera, bed camera, and headrest monitor among other things in the near future. This thing has so much space and potential!

-K
 
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#67 ·
Yup, the harnesses were among the most expensive pieces. But I can return everything to factory except the blank switch plates, which go for $4 from the dealer. Some other mods I have in mind make me nervous because I would actually cut into the plastic of the console. For a used car - no problem... a brand new one - maybe in a year or so. It's my first time owning a brand new vehicle.
 
#68 ·
For those who have done this mod, what happens if the Front camera switch is activated (on) and left on and then you go into reverse? Just wondering if I can leave the front camera on while I'm trying to parallel park so that when I reverse I can see the rear on the display and when I go forward I see the front on the display - without having to toggle the switch each time I change directions. TIA
 
#70 ·
The way that I did it, if you are in reverse, it will ALWAYS show the reverse camera, even if it is switched to the front camera. The moment you pop out of Reverse, it goes back to the front camera. I only have an issue with this when parallel parking and there is a Z3 or a miata in front of me.

With this configuration, the front camera stays on regardless of reverse position. I can probaby configure it to do what you are asking, just let me know if you want the diagram for it. I just prefer to manually control it because I sometimes reverse into a spot based on a marking in the front of the truck.

@keyth99, Bravo Zulu on the modification. I was unaware of that A/V cable's existence. I happen to have an extra Chromecast not being used so now I have to do some pondering.
 
#69 ·
With this configuration, the front camera stays on regardless of reverse position. I can probaby configure it to do what you are asking, just let me know if you want the diagram for it. I just prefer to manually control it because I sometimes reverse into a spot based on a marking in the front of the truck.
 
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