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post #31 of 88 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 11:04 AM
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Just found this thread and I am amazed. I have been wanting to do this for quite awhile but my truck is my daily driver. How long on average did it take complete the whole cab? including removing the interior and putting it all back.

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post #32 of 88 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 11:44 AM
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I did the 4 doors (inside and out), rear wall and most of the floor in Dynamat.
I used 2 of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020CB2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did the rear wall and rear floor area in 1/4 Dynamat.
2 of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WQOR4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not cover every square inch like some of you did.
But I did the best I could with the budget I had.









It certainly got rid of the noise that sounded like a rear window was open.
Also my 7" BAMuffler kit should arrive today..

Thinking about putting a solid layer of 1/8" Dynaliner on the front doors and front floorboard .
I didn't do the roof, but looking at these pics sure makes me want to do it.
I might just have to do that and see if it keeps the interior cooler in the 100 degree summers.
Does doing the roof make it much quieter?
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post #33 of 88 (permalink) Old 02-27-2015, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by amo292 View Post
Just found this thread and I am amazed. I have been wanting to do this for quite awhile but my truck is my daily driver. How long on average did it take complete the whole cab? including removing the interior and putting it all back.

Took me a full day to do my 2014 DC.
I mean from 8AM to 6PM..
I disconnected the neg battery terminal to pull my front seats because of the air bags in them.





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post #34 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-05-2015, 08:47 PM
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how difficult is it to dynamat the doors ? in some of the images it looks like the dynamat is both on top of the outer frame of the door and also inside of the door ?


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post #35 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-05-2015, 11:38 PM
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how difficult is it to dynamat the doors ? in some of the images it looks like the dynamat is both on top of the outer frame of the door and also inside of the door ?

It's pretty easy. Once you remove the door panel, peel back the plastic weather barrier and you'll have plenty of room to slide Dynamat inside the door. You can cut it into strips to make install easier. Once you do the outer part of the door, replace the weather barrier and cover the inside. Don't cover the plastic barrier with Dynamat, it's a waste of material. You can disgauard the weather barrier and seal the holes with thin sheets of metal from Home Depot. If you go that route, then cover that with Dynamat.

You'll need a straight edge, a utility knife, a small wooden roller and a pair of gloves. I recommend wearing some old clothes too....if the butyl gets on your clothes, it's not coming off. The gloves will keep your hands from getting cut up. The aluminum backing is pretty sharp.

It's really easy, once you do one door, you'll fly through the other three.

Hope that helps
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post #36 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 12:23 AM
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@jumbojet your the man ! thank u for the info
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post #37 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gzaonas View Post
@jumbojet your the man ! thank u for the info

No problemo. I bought 4 rolls of Reckhorn dampener on Amazon for $47 a roll. So much cheaper than Dynamat Extreme and besides the color of the foil, it's an identical product. .80 mil thickness, same specs as Dynamat X.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JRZPMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A side by side for you







I bought my MLV from sound deadened showdown, but the price on the Reckhorn was too good to pass up on Amazon

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post #38 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 08:45 AM
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how many rolls of that do you think I would need to just do the doors ? I only care about preventing any vibration / rattling and less concerned about keeping outer noise out. Should I do the back wall if I'm putting a sub under the back seats ?
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post #39 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 11:48 AM
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You could probably get away with two rolls of Reckhorn for just your doors. You don't HAVE to cover every square inch of metal with it, although it makes most of us (myself included) feel better if we do. The roll in my picture is about 13 feet long. The width is the same as the Dynamat, I think 19", but I'll have to check. The roll is around 21 sqft.

I'm doing the same on the new truck as I did on my current Tundra. I'm covering the doors, floor, back wall and roof. I have 4 rolls for now, if I need another one I'll grab it.
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post #40 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 12:03 PM
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Wow, that reckhorn looks like a great deal, I went with Fatmat but its only 50mil for roughly the same price at amazon. Thanks @Jumbo Jet for making me aware of that product, I hadn't seen that mentioned on this site yet. There's so many sound deadeners out there its hard to know what's best/most cost effective.

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post #41 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 12:13 PM
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Nice info in this thread! What would be the bare minimum for areas to deaden if not going all out in a cm? All doors and rear wall? I have an old box of dynamat, thinking it has 5 sheets that look to be somewhere around 2x2.
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post #42 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by |-|ardnut View Post
Nice info in this thread! What would be the bare minimum for areas to deaden if not going all out in a cm? All doors and rear wall? I have an old box of dynamat, thinking it has 5 sheets that look to be somewhere around 2x2.

Products | Sound Deadener Showdown

This is a great read to learn about proper use of CDL tiles. As I said, most of us love going overboard with CDL, it's fun and it looks cool to cover every square inch, but only a few pieces here and there are all that's really needed. CDL kills the vibration in a panel. MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is what is required to kill road and outside noise. My 90 sqft roll of MLV just arrived yesterday. That will cover my doors, all floor and back wall.

On his site, he has a Tundra broken down to every piece of material he sells. Click on Toyota on the left, then Tundra to figure out how much of each product you'll need.
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post #43 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 02:02 AM
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Thanks Jumbo. I read that site and with my other projects that isn't going to happen.

The floor in theory has some sound protection, so I will skip that. I won't be running rear doors so am debating not going there. I know keeping the bad noises out is what makes a system shine, but there has to be a spot that gets me 75% there without removing the whole interior. Trial and error will no doubt be what has to happen but if anyone has some tips/knowledge/experience that would be great. I guess i better pay extra attention when driving around.

Don't get me wrong btw, my middle name is overboard. However I have a supercharger to install, a front yard to landscape, this stereo to put in, etc, etc...
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post #44 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by |-|ardnut View Post
Thanks Jumbo. I read that site and with my other projects that isn't going to happen.

The floor in theory has some sound protection, so I will skip that. I won't be running rear doors so am debating not going there. I know keeping the bad noises out is what makes a system shine, but there has to be a spot that gets me 75% there without removing the whole interior. Trial and error will no doubt be what has to happen but if anyone has some tips/knowledge/experience that would be great. I guess i better pay extra attention when driving around.

Don't get me wrong btw, my middle name is overboard. However I have a supercharger to install, a front yard to landscape, this stereo to put in, etc, etc...
Other than the carpet and a few thin strips of whatever that is, the floor has little of anything..

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post #45 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 02:24 PM
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You guys are making a good argument to go big or go home....lol. Perhaps I will pick up one of these to get all measurey about it!

http://www.amazon.ca/Mini-Digital-Sound-Level-Meter/dp/B001THX3M0
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