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post #16 of 1983 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 01:54 PM
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I haven't used the Four Star product before, but had my bedsides corrected a while back and the detailer used Blackfire Wet Diamond as the finishing product. That product lasted a long time and was very slick so I read your reviews and am trusting that I would like the Four Star product as much or more than the BFWD. This will be my first time using the Menzerna line and first time correcting paint. Thanks for the tip on which Menzerna products to buy...those 2 products are my first choice and come in a bundle on AutoGeek for $50 in 16oz sizes. This is also very tempting for double the size at the same price for similar products Menzerna Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, Menzerna Final Polish, Intensive polish How many vehicles do you think the 16 or 32oz bottles are good for? What is the advantage/purpose of using the Powerlock before the FourStar or BlackFire sealants?

Depends on how much detailing or corrections you're doing. If you're just correcting your own cars, you'll be fine with the 16oz. bottles. Remember, you're only correcting once or twice a year, or as major imperfections arise, not after every wash. So they should last you awhile. But what will most likely happen is that you'll do your truck, your friends will see it, and they'll want theirs done as well. So maybe the 32oz. bottles are a better idea.

PowerLock is Menzerna's synthetic sealant. It's pretty amazing stuff. It's has a very similar crazy slick feel to it like PUPP, but PUPP is still king. However, if you're familiar with BFWD and you like it, then you could go right to that. PowerLock isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for in the world of detailing. I just like PowerLock because of its durability and staying within the same line, but there is no real world benefit of using it over another high end LSP. Just like PUPP and BFWD, PL goes on and off extremely easy.
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post #17 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 03:05 PM
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Here's one: I just bought a car that the previous owner smoked in. The smell isn't horrible but I have a nose like a bloodhound and I notice it. I've tried sitting a couple of bowls of coffee in it for a few days and it did help some. I'm trying to avoid spraying a bunch of chemicals in the car since I haul my 1 yo daughter in it some. I've heard about some sort of ozone machines but I also heard that the resulting gases will eat away at any exposed rubber surfaces: not good with a sunroof, not to mention door seals. Any other suggestions?


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post #18 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure the exposure time with the Ozone machine will be enough to have any real affect on the rubber. I'll ask some guys I know and let you know what I can come up with.

FWIW, I have used an Ozone machine on my mother's car (Heavy smoker) and left it on all night and then opened it up the next day and to this day that car hasn't had any issues with the rubber seals. (That was 6 years ago)


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post #19 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 03:18 PM
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Not sure the exposure time with the Ozone machine will be enough to have any real affect on the rubber. I'll ask some guys I know and let you know what I can come up with.

FWIW, I have used an Ozone machine on my mother's car (Heavy smoker) and left it on all night and then opened it up the next day and to this day that car hasn't had any issues with the rubber seals. (That was 6 years ago)
Thanks. When I was told that it kinda set me on edge. In my mind I pictured all the exterior seals turning to powder or something


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post #20 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 03:49 PM
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A couple applications of ozone won't be enough to break down the rubber unless the ozonizer is too large. If you're worried, try a smaller unit around 200mg. Let the ozonizer run for about 20-30 minutes while the fan is running. Hold your nose, shut the car off and then let it run for another 15 minutes. Unplug it and let it sit for an hour then open all the doors.
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post #21 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Just talked to my Organic chemist buddy and he said it would take months or possibly a year of concentrated exposure to break down the rubber.


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post #22 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-02-2012, 04:17 PM
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Just talked to my Organic chemist buddy and he said it would take months or possibly a year of concentrated exposure to break down the rubber.
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A couple applications of ozone won't be enough to break down the rubber unless the ozonizer is too large. If you're worried, try a smaller unit around 200mg. Let the ozonizer run for about 20-30 minutes while the fan is running. Hold your nose, shut the car off and then let it run for another 15 minutes. Unplug it and let it sit for an hour then open all the doors.
Thanks to both of you. I'll track one down and give it a try.


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post #23 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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This is the place to ask your detailing questions and our very own resident detail guru will help answer.

ALL - Please keep your questions in this thread related to "Detailing."


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post #24 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 01:54 AM
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Jumbo - Thanks for the advice on the Menzerna products and pad pairing. Would you recommend 5.5" pads or 6.5" pads? I'm guessing the smaller pad will give more control and the larger pad will be able to cover more surface area, but any other advantages/disadvantages?


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post #25 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 08:46 AM
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I use mostly 5.5" flat pads, either Uber or Lake Country. The PC doesnt generate enough torque to properly spin a 6.5" pad. The Flex does, but the PC struggles with them. Take a Sharpie and make a small black line on the back of your backing plate, the side facing you(usually yellow). When the machine is under too much pressure the pad will quit spinning and the mark will be evident.
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post #26 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 01:21 PM
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I'm going to be ordering the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital tomorrow, does that have enough torque to properly spin a 6.5" pad? Noticed it has a 6" backing plate so I'm guessing it does. If it doesn't then I will need to order a 5" backing plate to use with the 5.5" pads right? Thanks for the sharpie tip.


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2007 Tundra crewmax LTD. Lowered 2/4.5" with Belltech Street Performance struts and SOS Performance rear flip kit. 26" Lexani LX7 with 305/30/26 Pirelli tires. Color matched Paramount grille, door handles, side mirrors, rear bumper, and tailgate handle. Phillips 6000k HID kits in headlights and foglights. V-Leds interior and exterior. Hella celis led tail lights. Borla exhaust. Alpine/CDT full custom stereo with sound deadened cab by Extreme Audio Systems.
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post #27 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 08:58 PM
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Yes, it will spin the 6.5" pads, but you can better take advantage of its power with the 5.5" pads. I used to love 6.5" pads, but the more I play with the 5.5" pads the more I love them. They are just so much easier to maneuver around contours and tight areas. Everyone's experiences are different, but I prefer the 5.5" flat pads from Uber or Lake Country. The flat pads glide across the surface much smoother, they don't skip or jump like the dimpled pads do.
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post #28 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for the advice. Will go ahead and order the Lake Country 5.5" CCS Smart Pads with the Lake Country 5" backing plate so I can use the pads with the GG 6" DA unit. Gonna start off ordering 2 each of the orange, white, and red pads.


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2007 Tundra crewmax LTD. Lowered 2/4.5" with Belltech Street Performance struts and SOS Performance rear flip kit. 26" Lexani LX7 with 305/30/26 Pirelli tires. Color matched Paramount grille, door handles, side mirrors, rear bumper, and tailgate handle. Phillips 6000k HID kits in headlights and foglights. V-Leds interior and exterior. Hella celis led tail lights. Borla exhaust. Alpine/CDT full custom stereo with sound deadened cab by Extreme Audio Systems.
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post #29 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 07:59 AM
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Sounds like a great order, put up a pic of it when it comes in.
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post #30 of 1983 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 08:14 PM
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Question For us detailing noobs.....

Jumbo, I really have enjoyed reading your posts on detailing our trucks. As I am a new Tundra owner, and really want to do this baby right, I was wondering if you could break down your process in a step by step manner (including product choice).

I am determined to put the time into this truck to keep her looking great for years to come!

I have tried to glean as much info as I could on al of your other posts. However, I am such a detailing noob that I don't understand 3/4 of your acronyms and abbreviations......

I am willing to spend the $$ to do it right, so don't be afraid to recommend the good stuff due to price. I am always willing today for good effective products!

Thank you for your input.....
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