Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum banner

4”, 6” or something else...

13K views 78 replies 16 participants last post by  OkSlim 
#1 ·
I realize that this question has probably been asked at least a few thousand times, so forgive me in advance. I’m stuck on a few different things...

I have a 2014 DC SR5 with the TRD package. I don’t feel like I’m going to be happy with a leveling kit and am leaning toward a 4” or 6” lift instead. I have 275/70/18s right now and don’t plan on switching out my wheels anytime soon.

I’ve seen some 4” lifts with 33s and I don’t think they look awful by any means. Would you say that I’d have to go with 35s with the 6”? How ridiculous would it look with a 6” on 33s?

I drive a lot of rutted up dirt roads, do some occasional towing, and need decent handling for our northeastern winter weather. Would either lift option be better for this?

Thanks for the help!
 
#52 ·
I get 10mpgs when I behave. But if mpgs are your concern then we really have nothing more to talk about lol.

Think of it as SPGs. Smiles per gallon.

Actually it's a lot more than 4" of lift over stock. The coilovers will give you close to 4" and the tires should give you a few more. I really never measured but I think I'm probably close to 6" over stock height.



And I'm sure some idiot will be unable to resist posting a picture of my rolled over truck. So stay tuned for that.
 
#57 ·
:laugh: I like that - SPG. My husband knows my truck is bad ass in comparison to his so I get the MPG jokes all the time. I just tell him that yes, my truck might not get 22 MPG but my balls are bigger than his when I drive mine.

So, who's going to share this infamous picture???
 
#62 ·
I have a 2014 and went BDS 4.5 with 34 inch tires. Rides great but a little weird turning tight.
If you are referring to the lack of being able to turn a tight radius, it would be the steer stops.
I had some welded on with my 3” lift when people started blowing steering racks on the 2009.5’s to 13 tundras. Those really killed my turning radius...
 
#66 ·
I didn't get through all these yet, but wanted to comment before I had to run off. I did a few things in the beginning that I wish I would of not done.

I have 35's on my truck and only have a 3" lift on the front, but the back i went with Coachbuilder Shackles and love them. I had blocks at first and they did not give me the feel that I wanted when driving fast or off road. The Shackles are the way to go.

I ended up putting on the Coachbuilder tie rods and steering stops also. Great products and really well made.
 
#73 ·
Here’s the photo you asked for. Let me know if you need anything else to help make your decision.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: MiaRene
#74 ·
For bad roads or trail running it is dumb to raise the center of gravity and make the truck easier to flip. The power band for the engine is also shifted with the larger circumfrance of the tire and hardly ideal either on bad surfaces. Stiffer sidewalls with larger tires can also impact the ride and the handling. It also increases wear of the u-joints needed to drive front and rear wheels and these can fail with no warning and at less than opportune times. But if all the kids are doing it then what the hell, go for it.
 
#75 ·
But if all the kids are doing it then what the hell, go for it.
You're kinda all over the place.

Raising the center of gravity... ya, not optimal on or off the road to raise that more than necessary.

Larger diameter tires will make your engine run slower and reduce acceleration. But the larger tire definitely performs better off road, and you can get back the acceleration if you regear.

Stiff sidewalls can negatively impact the ride and mpg. They won't hurt the handling though. The ATs I bought improved handling and didn't hurt the ride or mpg. It depends on which tire you get. Burly mud tires would have a negative impact on those things, but if you need the durability and and off-road traction, then...

What "increases the wear on u-joints"? You don't say, but the only thing I can think of is an excessive strut lift. But if you keep that to 3" or less, drop the diff, and get UCAs, it's fine. Keeping it to <2" is better though. I also think if the u-joint is going to fail, you'll have plenty of advance warning. That's been my experience on other vehicles anyway.
 
#78 ·
I wouldn't have said it myself, but for some reason it seems ok coming from her.....:laugh:

Either that or her husband is making fun of you and we don't don't know any better....
 
  • Like
Reactions: MiaRene
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top