I've always done 78 lb-ft. For last 35 years. On steel wheels.
My '17 Tundra, with aluminum wheels, I'm running at 90 lb-ft (just rotated for first time and so did my first true lug and torque install). When I get home from 2 weeks on the road I will check them with torque wrench set again at 90 lb-ft.
Insane but I guess common. I have yet to see any tire shop or dealer use anything but an impact to tighten lug nuts. Do they even own a torque wrench?
Every time I get a tire rotation, or anything that involves taking off tires, I have to re-torque them at home. 96 should be fine for aluminum wheels. I do somewhere around there.
depends on what tire shop ya go to.. if its just one of those hole in the wall spots they'll just sit there until the impact gun cant tighten anymore.
i make sure they hand tighten them and only go up to 97lbs
I used to work for Costco and was friends with some of the tire shop employee's. The impact guns they use are limited to something around 70 lb/ft of torque (at maximum in forward direction) to prevent over tightening the lug nuts. I've also seen a lot of shops using torque sticks to prevent over tightening, followed by a final torque applied by a torque wrench.
I am assuming they are at 154lbs seeing that is what owners manual says, but that is for steel wheels. Should I leave them at 154 or loosen back to 96?
I loosen one lug nut at a time completely, then re torque to the proper aluminum wheel specs. I do somewhere in the upper 90's. I'm sure 96 is fine. Then I move on to the next lug nut, and so on. If I'm wrong, someone let me know!
I torque mine to 100, no need to pick an odd number. I do 150 for the steel wheels. It is always good to retorque your wheels day(s) after they were done anyways.
Everybody is like HOLLY SH!T!!
It is a 14mm 1.5 stud. Ever look at torque on a 8 lug truck with same stud?
Now as to the specs in the book. 90ish-150ish on wheels. The lug nuts on a factory aluminum wheel are a hell of a lot different than the lug nuts for the steel wheels. The lug nuts on the factory steel wheels are a lot like the lug nuts on aftermarket wheels.
I split the difference and went to 130lbs on my aftermarket wheels.
Missing in this conversation is the discussion of trying to get the 130 lb-ft to 154 lb-ft lug off of the wheel on the side of the road with the sh!tcrap lil lug tool from Mama Toyota. No friggin way. Somewhere in the 90's for me. On aluminum.
Also, I didn't mention that when I have shop work done (rarely but certainly for new tires) I tell the desk jockey "hand torgue lugs to _____ lb-ft. Write it on the order please. Write it."
Retail tire/wheel/oil/tune up, etc. shops have silent partners in their business'. And those partners ALL have the same name: general liability insurance policy. The investors in the general liability insurance policies are lawyers.
Shake it all up. What comes out? STUPID STUPID STUPID over tightening of lugs.
If they are already at 150 then that's what it is. Word of caution, every tire shop ever will ALWAYS way over torque your wheels to steel torque specs because they will never risk the opposite of your wheels falling off while your driving. You always have to tell them in person when you take it in that it should be 100 (or 97, I just say 100). Even the dealership will over torque. Alloys are always 100, and you have to tell them that. Also heads up, if you ever have to install your spare, do not forget to torque that to 150!
I also keep a set of the old acorn steel wheel lugs in the glove box, should the spare steely be needed. Hope I never have to use em!
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