Many of us have removed the rings entirely with the click still being present. No one can pinpoint what it is. But this issue is the least of my worries since my front diff has been howling for the past 5k miles.
Well THAT sucks! Sorry I couldn't be of more help, aftermarket wheels to match a 6" lift and off road bumpers sounds like the fix to me!
Well THAT sucks! Sorry I couldn't be of more help, aftermarket wheels to match a 6" lift and off road bumpers sounds like the fix to me!
Exactly! U think like me! Too bad I told my wife the reason I went with this pkg is for the wheels lol. In time, I think I'll have some methods mounted up. Although now that the weather has been below 50 deg, my wheels don't click anymore. I have countless hours trying to fix the issue with everything idea I could come up with. And everything I tried, the click remained. Then I got so pissed I decide to not worry about it. Go figure I stop messing with it and the temp cools down and the clicking goes away. Now if only the diff howl could go away so I dnt have to go to the dealer... I'd be a real happy camper.
My story,,,click all the same as urs except this clear coat was coming off rims my dealer long story short ..gave me all NEW rims same tires...no clicking YET! i expect it to come back and almost ask for different rims..
one theory not givin at first i thought the air was catching the lose clear cloat and clicking ..then a little further where the edge off tire goes over rim when we roll it pushes the clear coat off and clicks ..problems with second part some of u have takin off the bead and still heard click ..are all u guys with clicking having issues with clear coat.
anyway have new rw rims and old tires no clicking YET..
I should have updated when my clicking came back a few weeks ago. Made it almost 7 weeks and 574 miles click free (from 9/14 to 11/1). Wheels and hub were wire wheeled, a liberal dose of anti-seize was applied and the rings and center caps were removed. Clicking is just as it was before. Mine is always the left/front, even after rotating the tires.
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2011 Tundra DC RW (Red)
1966 FJ40 Landcruiser
I'm beginning to think its a combination of the studs and hub surface they protrude through. When my truck goes in within the next few months for the front diff issue I'm going to see if I can get them to install new hub assemblies. We will see how it goes. I'm not even to going to mention I think it's the wheels since they will look at me like I'm a nutcase.
Remember I said this months ago, lol, I bet longer studs would fix the issues
Actually all we would need to do is run a conical tapered lug nut that method states to run with thier wheels. with the extended threads that extend down into the bore of the wheel like the stock sr5 wheels, we would be getting that needed thread engagement back. I dnt think our bolt pattern holes have a large enough diameter to accept this type of lug nut though. This is a serious issue that Toyota and TRD have overlooked, so how do we go about getting them to fix the issue...?
Something like this with that extended thread portion which is found on the other sr5 wheels should do the trick here.
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Last edited by midwest division; 11-20-2012 at 03:48 PM.
Exactly! Now I wonder if we have the room to fit them?
Can you do me a favor and check exactly how much thread engagement the next time you loosen up your lugnuts? My prediction is that you are going to have about 5-7 full turns. 10 is really what you want but I don't see it happening.
The ET lugnuts will probably not fit in the lug holes on the RW wheels.
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Can you do me a favor and check exactly how much thread engagement the next time you loosen up your lugnuts? My prediction is that you are going to have about 5-7 full turns. 10 is really what you want but I don't see it happening.
The ET lugnuts will probably not fit in the lug holes on the RW wheels.
Actually, I did count the turns during my last rotate...it was between 8-10 if I remember correctly. And I'm also afraid the ET style won't fit in the RW holes.
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I have a set of et lugs, however I already have my wheels on my truck now and do not have clicking (yet) so I don't want to eph with it and possibly cause clicking lol.
Things that I had noticed... The dealer had installed the new wheels, and shortly there-after I noticed the clicking... The dealer also swapped, rotated, re-balanced... yadda yadda... I never installed the wheels myself or removed them when I had the clicking.
I noticed that when I look at the wheels the hub mating surface didn't seem like it had been flush mating, the hub of the wheel had a circle around it where it seemed like from the center of the stud holes all the way around. The inside of this ring looked like the wheels were seated, the outside of this ring had a light layer of rust, like there was clearance. may have been vice versa, it was getting dark and I had a jack under the truck and no stands and no lift... This was on 2/3 of the wheels, the 4th had never been mounted...
Also, fwiw they did manage to scratch the wheels where the locking lug was due to too large of a socket... Ohh well... I give up this time, they already replaced all 4 wheels, then a 5th, then a tire... The other dealer had already paid for my summer wheels. I am calling it a draw now.
I found it odd that the surface looked literally like the wheel hadn't been fully seated on the hub.
I have not checked with the service manager who had said there may be a tsb, have been too busy... I will try to check with him next week sometime and see if anything has came up or any solution...
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