Hi all. I have a 07 limited CM with 5.7 4X4. The window sticker says max payload at 1495lbs, but the sticker in the side of driver's door says 1310lbs. Perhaps because of the 20" tires. What gives? I am wondering because I am looking to buy a 27' airstream(wife refuses to tent camp) which has GVRW of 8800lbs(6525 empty) and tongue weight of 790. Even with 1495lbs, that only leaves me with 705lbs for payload, and far less with 1310lbs. Is this too much of a trailer for the truck to handle? Also, is the fuel considered part of the payload?
Hi all. I have a 07 limited CM with 5.7 4X4. The window sticker says max payload at 1495lbs, but the sticker in the side of driver's door says 1310lbs. Perhaps because of the 20" tires. What gives? I am wondering because I am looking to buy a 27' airstream(wife refuses to tent camp) which has GVRW of 8800lbs(6525 empty) and tongue weight of 790. Even with 1495lbs, that only leaves me with 705lbs for payload, and far less with 1310lbs. Is this too much of a trailer for the truck to handle? Also, is the fuel considered part of the payload?
Don't expect the trailer weights to be the weights you listed unless the actual trailer you are buying is weighed on a scale.
Typically, manufacturers list the weight with no options and rarely equip the trailers without any. A/C, microwave, TV, awnings, etc are all options on most trailers.
I recently bought a trailer that the literature stated a dry weight of 6495 lbs and a tongue weight of 740 lbs. I picked up the trailer and headed straight to the scales, the actual numbers were were about 6990 lbs and just over 700 TW.
Once I loaded the trailer with camping gear, genny, firewood, and full of fresh water I am at about 8,500 lbs and just under a 1,000lbs of tongue weight which puts me over the GVWR of the truck by about 500 lbs but still within the maximum allowed on the rear axle of the truck so I'm not too worried about it.
Back to your questions, fuel (and a 150 lb driver) is not considered payload, but everything else is including the weight distributing hitch assembly.
Personally, I don't think that's too much trailer for the truck but I suggest you be aware of how you distribute the load in the truck and trailer.
Maybe ask if you can take the trailer to the scales before purchasing it to confirm the weight.
I also recommend loading the truck and trailer in full "camp mode" and have it weighed to ensure you have adequate tongue weight and the weight distributing hitch set up properly. Don't even think for a minute the dealer will set it up properly when you when you pick it up, in fact, there's no way for them to get it right unless all you ever plan on towing is the empty trailer.
That's enough rambling for now, good luck with you purchase.
Thanks Vince. That is some good info. I am planning on using 8800lbs as what I need to pull. But I am a little worried since it many of the threads on this forum says to use the 80% as a safety measure and at 8800lbs and with 10100lb capacity, I would be running over that. I also do not want to put too much strain on the powertrain as one of my favorite places to camp is Yosemite and certain sections, I will have to climb to 10000ft.
The Tundra CM is definitly a bit light on the cargo carrying capacity but if you don't plan on too many passenger and cargo, the tw will be in the OK range. Honestly, for that load and elevation, finding a used diesel would make more sense. Add the supercharger as an option?
I'm running about 8400 lbs and for mountains I would not want any more unless you want to use 2nd gear and move less the 50 mph. 10,000 ft badly saps the HP so you will have some problems.
Can you put the TT on a diet? Run with minimal FW, food, and etc?
I have heard that on any gas engine pulling loads at high elevation that a CAI will help the breathing.
__________________ Dick
2008 Crew Max Limited TRD (New Tow Vehicle)
2009 Cougar 268 RLS ~8400 lbs on the Road
2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel (TV in Training)
2005 Jeep GC Limited (Retired TV)
2005 Jayco 25Z Travel Trailer (Retired)
Is the airstream 27' overall or box length. Makes a big differance. Have you considered looking around for something of comparable size with about 1,000 lbs less wt. Proabley even save enough $$$$ to put on the supercharger and pay for the first 4 years of traveling.
__________________ Dick
2008 Crew Max Limited TRD (New Tow Vehicle)
2009 Cougar 268 RLS ~8400 lbs on the Road
2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel (TV in Training)
2005 Jeep GC Limited (Retired TV)
2005 Jayco 25Z Travel Trailer (Retired)
Overall length is 27' 11". There is simliar trailer that is about 1000lbs lighter, but it does not have all the amenities that I want. However, when I make a big purchase like this, I do not like to sacrifice on the things that I want or I'll soon regret it. I am not worried as much about the towing capacity as much as i am about the payload capacity. Dry weight is 6500 and GVWR is 8800lbs which I can try to minimize what I bring, but in terms of the payload, after the tongue weight, I only have 700 lbs to play with.
Remember that your effectove TW is ~25% less then the actual TW to the the redistrubution of TW to the TT axles by the WH hitch assy. Undistributed TW should be ~12% of the total TT on-the-road wt. Depending on how much cargo and passengers you will have in the truck you may be OK
Cargo capacity assumes a 150 lb driver and a full tank of fuel.
__________________ Dick
2008 Crew Max Limited TRD (New Tow Vehicle)
2009 Cougar 268 RLS ~8400 lbs on the Road
2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel (TV in Training)
2005 Jeep GC Limited (Retired TV)
2005 Jayco 25Z Travel Trailer (Retired)
The sticker on the driver's door is correct. 1495lbs. is the maximum cargo capacity for a Tundra CM, 1310lbs. is the actual cargo capacity for your particular truck. It just means you have 185 lbs. of options on your truck.
I also have 20" rims with 55 profile tires that came with the limited CM. Will changing that down to say SR5 model tires(18") help in payload. How will my ride quality change with the tire change w/o trailer since this is my daily commute truck.
You might be wise to sell your 20s and buy some stock 18s with an E range LT tire. The P tires will be awfully squirmish.
Don't worry so much about power... you know you're not goign to be the fastest to the top of the hill, and you know you probably won't be the slowest.
Be focused on either some SuperSprings (AAL style) or a set of airbags which will help with keeping the truck level.
Add stuff to keep the truck towing nicely like some E range tires (10 ply) or some airbags for keeping it level. A CAI might be nice but I'd put it last on my list.
And, obviously, make sure you got some trailer brakes.
Lastly, it's probably a good measure to include yourself and the fuel into the payload capacity. I'm sure Toyota factors it in but if you go to their website it basically says that you subtract everything minus the truck itself to find the ultimate payload. I don't really live by this rule. I just leave the payload in the bed b/c it's all over the rear axle specifically. I don't notice with my friend and I (250 + 180) get out of the truck with 2000+ lbs of concrete in there so you should be fine if that entire load didn't bottom it out.
I also have 20" rims with 55 profile tires that came with the limited CM. Will changing that down to say SR5 model tires(18") help in payload. How will my ride quality change with the tire change w/o trailer since this is my daily commute truck.
Nope, nothing you can do will change the payload except shedding wt. I fought with the dealer because my truck had dealer installed 20 inch wheels and I refused delivery until they were changed back to 18 inch. Nothing wrong with 20 inch except you can not get higher load rated tires in 55 profile. I would accept nothing less then a 65 series.
Changing to the 18" will allow you a broader selection of tires that are more suitable for truck use vs. 20" pimp-mobils
Some manufactures claim that add-on's will increase the CCC but they lie.
Last but not least, load your truck up with everything you will take with you including passengers, hitch and etc and pop over to the local scale. You may get the same unpleasant suprise I just did. Found I had only 515 lbs of carrying capacity left and even worse almost at the max frt axle wt. This is not a good thing.
__________________ Dick
2008 Crew Max Limited TRD (New Tow Vehicle)
2009 Cougar 268 RLS ~8400 lbs on the Road
2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel (TV in Training)
2005 Jeep GC Limited (Retired TV)
2005 Jayco 25Z Travel Trailer (Retired)
Nope, nothing you can do will change the payload except shedding wt. I fought with the dealer because my truck had dealer installed 20 inch wheels and I refused delivery until they were changed back to 18 inch. Nothing wrong with 20 inch except you can not get higher load rated tires in 55 profile. I would accept nothing less then a 65 series.
Changing to the 18" will allow you a broader selection of tires that are more suitable for truck use vs. 20" pimp-mobils
Some manufactures claim that add-on's will increase the CCC but they lie.
Last but not least, load your truck up with everything you will take with you including passengers, hitch and etc and pop over to the local scale. You may get the same unpleasant suprise I just did. Found I had only 515 lbs of carrying capacity left and even worse almost at the max frt axle wt. This is not a good thing.
Just in reference to your " 20" pimp-Mobils "
These are 285/55/20 and they are a very good tire in the 20" size
For wheels and tires, I would suggest keep the 20's for daily use. Get a set of styled steel wheels and mount your E rated tires on them. That way you don't have to drive around on the hard tires all the time.
I really like airstreams but they have gotten fat. You are camping, why do you need granite or tiles? You change out the materials and you could lose a 1000 lbs and not lose any function. Losing some of the amenities may make it feel like you are on vacation rather than still in the living room.
You cut a lot of the baggage you bring and the trip will be more relaxing.