After researching and reading about other members experiences on this forum & elsewhere on the P3 I decided to follow along.
Purchased the Tekonsha P3 & wiring harness combo from Amazon along with the P3 panel from ESP. Finally got around to installing it today. Was a simple straight forward install without any holdups. Very pleased with the outcome and glad I paid the extra for the P3 panel.
When I completed installation:
If you are pondering installing one or just want to see what installation involves, I documented it here: Tekonsha P3 Install
Does anyone know if the plug and play wire harness for the P3 is long enough to reach the cubby hole above the power outlets on the bench seat/column shift models prior to the 2014's?
Does anyone know if the plug and play wire harness for the P3 is long enough to reach the cubby hole above the power outlets on the bench seat/column shift models prior to the 2014's?
This looks great! Wish I'd have known about this panel/mount a few weeks ago. Mine is mounted to the factory panel in this location. I will be picking one of these up
Unfortunately I thought about taking pictures of the process AFTER I had it all together but it is very easy to do. After you remove the panel that the cubby is part of you can remove the cubby from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then lightly lifting the 2 tabs on the bottom of the cubby to release the catches. Be careful with the tabs as they are very small and will break easily but it is easy. I then mounted the p3 to the u bracket and put it in the cubby to get an approximation of where I wanted it. Mark the approx location of the u bracket in the cubby and then remove the p3 from the bracket. Now put the u bracket back in where you marked it and mark where the holes should go, I used a pic that had a 90 degree bend on it. the cubby is thin so you can just push adn turn the pic to make it poke through. Once you have marks that can be seen from the outside of the cubby drill the holes in the top of the cubby, I used 6 mm machine screws that had a washer on them with a nut and washer on the other side. Now if you want the p3 to point perfectly straight you will have to offset the u bracket slightly, you won't get it right the 1st time so don't worry. After I drilled the top holes for the u bracket then I had to drill access holes in the side of the cubby to access the screws that bolt the p3 to the u bracket. These holes wil be about 1/4". The reason for the holes in the side is so once you securely mount the u bracket you will then need to mount the p3 to the bracket, you can't properly install teh u bracket and tighten the bolts with the p3 in the way. Once you have side holes drilled so that you can fit the screws into the p3 mount everything up, put the cubby back into the panel and put it back in the vehicle and check to make sure that the p3 is pointing straight forward and not angled off to one side or the other. While it probably will work slightly off center I couldn't leave it like that. What I did was to pull the whole thing apart again and then slot one of the top u bracket holes that I drilled in the cubby so that I could pivot the u bracket. Remount everything and then check your alignment of the p3. After you are good with the alignment eyeball where you need to cut the hole in the back of the cubby to pass the wires though. I think I ended up with a hole about 1" high x 2" wide. Sneak the wiring in through the backside and mount everything back up. I put black tape over the side holes that I drilled in the cubby just to plug them My wiring runs from the back of the p3 along the knee bolster and over the obd connector and then plugs into the vehicle. Pick whatever bolt you want that is in metal to attach teh ground wire to. Here is a pic of mine all finished, no the face of my p3 is not all scratched up I just never took the plastic film off of the display. All in all it only took me about an hour start to finish.
Unfortunately I thought about taking pictures of the process AFTER I had it all together but it is very easy to do.....All in all it only took me about an hour start to finish.
Thank You again, l1tech, for the detailed instructions for mounting the P3 in the cubby on the column shift models prior to 2014. I got mine installed today!! The unit stayed on even after I took the keys out which made me nervous, but just went back out and checked, looks like it shuts itself off after a certain amount of time. Worked out perfect. It is very easy to see and reach in a natural arm position with elbow on the center bench seat console.
Below are some pics I took along the way to compliment your instructions. The only difference was I did not need to drill the holes in the sides of the cubby. I used the little star washers under the head for a little grip and split washers under the nuts.
Connector plugged in and ground attached:
Harness zip tied:
P3 end of harness in place:
Slot cut out of cubby. Used spade bit on ends then an exacto knife to cut in between, then filed smooth:
Held P3 upside down to keep screws from falling out, placed something to wedge in between the bracket and controller to hold screws in place temporarily:
Tightened the nuts down on outside of cubby with a nut driver:
Alignment of P3 connector and cubby slot:
Cubby with P3 installed, used flashlight to show bracket. Can't see it otherwise:
Plenty of room for quick access to manual override:
This is perfect l1tech!!! Looks great! Thank you very much for taking the time to write the very detailed instructions and picture. Greatly appreciated. I will certainly tackle this very soon. It looks like you still have access to the manual over ride switch as well. I think this is probably the closest that we'll get to the ESP set-up.
Looks good. Is your controller slightly angled toward you. If so let me know how it works. they are supposed to point straight ahead but I have a feeling that even if they are slightly off of center horizontally that they will still function ok. It might just be me but I noticed that with the controller mounted flat, not at a vertical angle like it was on my old Tundra when I had it mounted to the knee bolster, the trailer brakes seem to respond better. Nothing on my trailer has changed and the settings in the controller never changed when I transferred it over to the new truck.
That's a good point. I guess I was thinking it needed to be level left to right, didn't think about being perfectly straight front to back. I mounted it so it matched the angle of the cubby, so I would say 5° or less maybe?? It would not take to much to take it back out and slot one of the holes to rotate the unit so it points straight forward. Now I wonder if I should just fix it before we pick up our new TT in a couple weeks...
After researching and reading about other members experiences on this forum & elsewhere on the P3 I decided to follow along.
Purchased the Tekonsha P3 & wiring harness combo from Amazon along with the P3 panel from ESP. Finally got around to installing it today. Was a simple straight forward install without any holdups. Very pleased with the outcome and glad I paid the extra for the P3 panel.
When I completed installation:
If you are pondering installing one or just want to see what installation involves, I documented it here: Tekonsha P3 Install
Well, I took my P3 back out real quick tonight after work. Slotted the holes in the cubby to straighten the unit out so it would be parallel with the direction of travel.
Front of P3 is no longer in line with the top of the cubby:
Added a little notch to make it easier to get a screwdriver in the back to release the harness:
Mounted back up in the truck, looks level and straight:
Looking down at the P3 from the top shows it pointed in the right direction:
Should be good to go now! Can't wait to pick up the new TT soon.
save yourself some money and get the cheaper tekonsha Primus IQ brake controlle for around 90 bucks is all on amazon.com and 12 or so for the 3 feet long wiring harness.
I ran the 3 foot from left kick panel up under the dash over to the right of steering wheel and mounted on bottom of the dash panel down by gas pedal area right in front of where your right knee would be using 3M double sided velcro tape.
Cost me 100 bucks is about it and the primus IQ by tekonsha will do exact same thing as the P3 controller
As l1tech said: Need more detailed info. If you are talking about kills power to Tundra engine then sounds like a wiring problem. Or maybe I just don't understand the post.
All the wiring was plug and play but if you are on the gas , and the gain lever on the bottom is activated I can feel a power deference being cut on the motor then soon as I remove it goes away. Its almost like it was meant to do that the way it acts . This is with no trailer connected 2014 Tundra offroad DC sr5. Im curious to see if anyone else has tried this ?
When you slide the gain lever it activates the electrical circuit to turn on the brake lights. I'm betting the ecu is thinking that the brakes are being applied while you are trying to push on the gas and is intentionally cutting power. Part of the whole throttle override system so the throttle gets overridden if you hit the brakes. I'll see if my 13 does it this morning.
I can feel this on my '07. First drive with the P3 installed I had to mess with it. There's buttons and a lever, and I can't not mess with them even though there's no trailer. Anyway, I could feel the momentary drop in power when I ran the manual lever all the way over.
Mine does the same thing and yes it is the throttle override. This could be a safety issue and here is why. If you have been pulling large trailers for years then chances are that at one time or another you have had one that has started to sway. When it gets extreme and you have to take action the thing to do is to hit the manual override on the tbc and accelerate the tow vehicle, this helps to tighten things up and arrest the trailer sway. With the throttle override kicking in you can no longer do this. Sure the trucks have built in trailer sway control but I'd rather have the option of doing it myself.
Just installed my new P3 and I was wondering what everyone is running for settings. The Directions say start at 6 but I was just curious where others are at. First tip out with it isn't for another 2 weeks.
I've been run my gain at 10-12. Maybe time to adjust my trailer brakes? As your trailer brakes wear, you may need to increase the gain.
I don't like boost feature (where it bumps up the min brake on the trailer) at slow speeds as it makes things jerky, but at highway speeds boost 1 generally feels good. I never use B2/B3.
IMO, don't be shy on setting the gain, I'd error on the side of too much gain as trailer brakes are cheaper than truck brakes. If you make the truck do too much of the braking, you'll wear out your truck brakes too fast.
you will know when your settings need to be adjusted.
If it feels like someone grabbed you by the tail, you'll need to back them off
If it feels like @Mr. Creosote is pushing you, you need to advance them a bit.
I make all my adjustments while I am braking, I rarely ever make an adjustment now and I tow a lot.
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