Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum banner

2015 CM OME/Coachbuilder/Toytec lift

9K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  smadasalohcin 
#1 · (Edited)
!!!PHOTOS!!! 2015 CM OME/Coachbuilder/Toytec lift !!!PHOTOS!!!!

All photos for this build can be viewed at:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/piivpautodyfgxl/AABl91CKW8qlNNDwItRIBisca?dl=0

Photobucket stopped embedding photos unless users pay 400 per year.


2015 5.7L Tundra Crewmax TRD off road


Suspension lift components

Front coils: OME 614 Coils - Heavy Load -4.7L (200+ lbs) assembled front shocks/coils with new hardware

Shocks: Front OME Sport Nitrocharger 90018 Shocks
Rear OME Sport Nitrocharger 60100 Shocks

Rear lift: Complete Dakar Rear Leaf Springs (U-bolts, FK32 fit kit)
Coachbuilder +2 shackles and poly bush kit

Upper Control Arms: Light Racing SPC Adjustable Upper Control Arms

Front Diff drop: Toytec

Skid plate drop: Toytec

Coachbuilder driveshaft carrier bearing drop Kit 1.25”

Coachbuilder steering kit

EBC Blank rotors front and back with yellowstuff pads

Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers


Measurements

Front from ground to middle of well
Drivers side stock = 36.00-----After Lift----40.25
Passenger side= 36.25 ----------------------40.75
.50" inches shorter on drivers side

Rear driver side= 39.00----------------------42.50
Passenger side= 39.00------------------------42.50
3.5" lift in rear

Alignment specs after lift with LR UCA
Camber
Drivers side +.09
Passenger side +.04

Caster
Drivers side +3.5
Passenger side +3.5

Toe
Driver side +.08
Passenger side +.10

2nd alignment numbers.
Camber +.1 both sides
Caster +4.7 both sides
Toe +.11 both sides

Truck steers nice! What do you all think about having caster so high, I think the truck behaves nicely so far. Took another 3 hours and coaching the tech on how to adjust the LR UCA.



Tundra stock. xmass tree in back


all photos that I have taken during the lift
http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/ADAMSFAMILYCAR/library/OME Lift





LR SPC UCA next to stock













OME 614




Pressing bushings out of Dakar leaf springs with press kit and a socket on the top side. Came out smooth






My shackles are bigger. +2 Coachbilder1 shackles next to stock the bolts up top are the kit provided by David.














used ratchet straps on both sides of axle to help hold and position for Dakar leafs and Coachbuilder1 shackles


OME leafs going in


even looks good after my dirty hands were all over them. used the bushing lube and anti seized the bolt though the sleeve. old bolt was rusted bad at just over a year and a half old. Upper bushings seem to be poly from factory. looked new and just like the bushings I got from Coachbuilder.


My buddy Sevi did all the work with me. Hell of a hand could not have done it without him! He is bouncing the back to settle things a little before torqing the shackle and leafs.


after torqing leafs and shackles



















8/19/16 Thank you to my friend Cameron for coming out to Wyoming from Arizona and helping me with this install on your last day of vacation.

Added EBC blank rotors with EBC yellowstuff pads on all four corners.

Replaced tie rod ends with Coachbuilder steering kit.

Installed 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers.

Next step is to replace the dreaded steering rack bushings with Poly Bush kit.
















9/25/16 Replaced stock 275 65 18s with BFG T/A KO2 275 70 18


The BFGs look awesome and drive nice. I have 45psi in them for now and might drop to 40psi if I notice uneven wear.

They do look small though. I think 37s are in my future.































More Pics of things I have on the Tunera



Led Light bar behind grill.


Solderd connections to an existing switch that runs this bar and one in the bulg




The light bar mounted from the bottom of the bar. Made some spacers to get the height I wanted. Solderd and heat shrunk the connections then coverd all wire in split tubeing




Led In hood



Cutting the supports out of the front










Group 31M Sears DieHard Platinum (was in my 2013 swapped it before I sold it). 150 Amp Circuit Breaker for 4kw inverter Under drivers seat.

 
See less See more
57
#2 ·
That is awesome.
Almost the exact same set up I have now.

OME 614s with CB Shims, and Toytec AAL and +3 CB Shackles for the rear.
I too got the 1.25" carrier driveshaft drop kit and LR SPC UCAs

I cant express enough how knowledgable and easy David (Coachbuilder) is to work with.

Everything looks great. I do not think you are missing anything

I am soon upgrading to the Dakar OME Leaf pack. Hopefully you like it.
 
#4 ·
Yes, I like how it sits stock. I'll have it lifted in a week or two and I'll take some pics. Just getting all my parts together. Thanks guys
 
#5 ·
I will add more info about the lift process when I get a little more time. The diff drop bushings from Toytec did not fit the bolts that came with them, so we drilled them out. The full lift took ten hours with some running around to the hardware store and having to take my girls car seat back to my Wife. All said and done I would do it all over again.
 
#8 ·
full lift in 20



Ya that was a long 20 minutes though:eek: Was awesome!
 
#9 ·
Would 275 70 18 BFG KO2 look to small on this lift?
 
#13 ·
I have almost the same setup except I have 613's, factory UCA's, and factory shackles... I want coach's but I don't want any rake, I like it leveled... Would anyone know if the OME bread able shackles would maintain the same ride height like the factory? Also, what brand UCA's were used in this build? I'm looking to upgrade. Push the limits on the alignment with the current setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
I used light racing spc UCA. Any shackle that has a cross bar between them would be longer then stock. OME shacks would be closer to stock then coach builders +1
 
#17 ·
nice job! uca's and shackles are next on my list.
 
#18 ·
After lifting the tundra I'm having odd steering feedback. The steering wheel turns two and a half times to the passenger side and three and a half times to the drivers side. I did the zero point reset and had an alignment on the truck.

Issues I am having are, while driving down steep dirt roads/hills the steering wheel will be upside down while tires are pointed straight ahead, while doing u turn the steering wheel feels disconnected from the the steering system till I turn the wheel all the way strait and drive for a few feet. On the road driving and not turning to full lock the truck drives nice.

I notice that when I have the wheel turned to full lock, the tie rods are binding/beyond max positioning and the steering rack seem to be beyond max travel.

I guess I'm asking for some help/information to get my steering back to what It used to be. Should I do another zero point reset? Would Coachbuilders steering kit fix my issues on there own, or is there other parts I would need such as steering stops? Is there a way to reset the steering racks position to zero?

Also, how many turns of the steering wheel do most tundras take to go to full lock?

I'm going to copy/past this to its own thread just to solicit more responses, so sorry for a double post.

Thanks to all!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Update to my steering issue... I ordered Coachbuilders steering kit, steering rack polly bushings and steering stops.

After driving the truck for the last month the steering feels much better, or maybe I'm just getting use to how it steers now. Still feels over extended. When I receive the steering kit and bushings I'll post pics and update what this accomplishes.

I know people say that the Zero point reset does nothing for steering. But after doing it a couple of times, I now have even steering from lock to lock and power steering pump sounds quieter at full lock.

I am not sure if I'll use the steering stops but wanted them In case I decided they were necessary. Will steering stops help keep from blowing a rack?
 
#20 ·
Added pics to my post of Coachbuilder steering kit, spidertrax wheel spacers and EBC Brakes
 
#21 · (Edited)
Replaced my steering rack bushings with energy suspension poly bushings. Wow what a difference! Steering is spot on, firm and predictable.

While I was under the truck I recentered the outer steering kit/tie rod ends and steering wheel and set the toe best I could. Now need an alignment.

I didn't take many pictures as replacing the bushings was a very hard job to do by myself (one of those moments when you think to yourself what the fk did I get myself into!)

Tip: When taking the steering rack bolts out (the two that hold it to the crossmember) do not try and turn the bolt from the bottom, it will not turn even with a 3/4 impact or the biggest breaker bar with cheater! I tryed that and then got a short stubby wrench on the nut up top and it turned with just a little effort.

For the bottom half of each bushing I used a small chisel that I sharpened on a grinder and worked my way around the front side of each bushing shell. Then used a thicker chisel to work around and side to side till they popped out.

For the top of the bushings, I also used the two chisels around the shell then inserted a 22mm socket up from the bottom and ratchet strapped the rack down to the crossmember then used a sledge hammer to knock the top of the bushing up and out of the rack. The socket had a hard time getting into the steering rack and I had to hammer it past the crossmember into the hole.

I used silicon grease to help install the new poly bushings. Putting everything back together was a breeze.







 
#22 ·
What size tires you going to put on that thing op?
 
#23 ·
I currently have stock tires but ordered 275 70 18 BFG KO2. I'm really considering 37 12.50 but that's just not practical for me right now.

How do you like your KO2's?
 
#28 ·
Thanks, I'm glad my post could help. Keep me posted on what you do to your rig and if you have any questions I'll do my best to help. Good luck with your build!
 
#29 ·
Why did u add the wheel spacers? Just Curious, and do you notice them at all while driving? It looks like if I want to run lift spindles I need to use spacers or new wheels.
 
#30 ·
I upgraded my outer tie rod ends with Coachbuilders steering kit and David advised me to run ether a different offset wheel or get spacers. So when I ordered the steering kit I ordered spacers. After installing the steering kit I found that I did not need spacers to run the steering kit but decided to put them on anyway. I like the look now also and plan to run bigger tires in the future, so I decided just to keep them on.

I do notice them while driving. I think they improved the stability of the truck in hard cornering and the truck feels a little more planted while 4wheeling in the forest. I haven't experienced any negatives so far. I like the look of the stock trd rims and don't plan on running different wheels.

I know people have issues or concerns about using spacers but with spacers like spidertrax I feel comfortable 4wheeling just as hard as without them. I have done tons of research on them and if you keep them torqued to the right specs your wheel will fail before the spacer will.
 
#31 ·
Pics of BFG KO2 275 70 18

Added pics to first post of BFG KO2 275 70 18
 
#32 ·
Added pictures to first post of Led light in grill and hood. I need to take pictures of the lights finished up and at night. Lights were installed before lift. Just got around to posting them.

Update on BFG KO2 275 70 18. I like them but they are (like others have said) very hard in below zero F temps.

I think my alignment needs adjusted, the tires are wearing/cupping on the outside edge fronts. +.2 camber might be a little more than the tires like. Alignment check scheduled at 4wheel parts on the 22nd.

I'm not sure if the tires need balanced but I feel the tires bounce in the front, kind of like a ball dribbling. It's not bad but noticeable.

Just rambling and updating my thread.
 
#33 ·
update on KO2s

I was having ware/cupping on the outside edges of the front tires. The truck was a little out of alignment +.4 passenger side and +.2 drivers.

I also rotated and rebalanced the tires, had some weight added to one tire. I have also dropped the PSI down from 45 psi to 40 psi, some of the bounce I was experiencing went away with just dropping the pressure by 5.

The BFGs seem to be wearing ok now and are at 12/32 (14/32 new) with 11k miles on them.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top