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SUA Talk, Total Chaos vs Camburg

32K views 123 replies 17 participants last post by  osidepunker 
#1 ·
What do you guys know about these? My plan at the moment is to try and fit some 3.0s with my alcan leafs. The front will have a second shock hoop and 2.5 bypasses.

Lately I have been feeling like I am trying to do too much with only 8"-10" of real travel. The shop is quoting a lot of labor to get the 3.0s stuffed (frame needs to be notched). Probably as much labor as fitting a SUA kit...

So both kits are about $1500-$1600. The Camburg kit is saying that they come with the deavers while the TC kit does not. So there is actually a big difference in price between the two kits. There is very little information posted about each kit.

How much travel can I expect?

Do I have to do a bed cage or shock towers? I think one of the kits says that I dont.

How do you think it will perform with shocks sized so that I dont have to cut the bed?

How expensive do you think it will be to do a simple forward facing shock tower and some longer bypasses?

Do you think Deaver will sell me the leafs with different preload? On deavers website, they list some SUA leafs. The deaver rep I spoke with said that they are already rated for the additional weight of a bedcage and two full spares etc. but she couldnt give me specific specs.

How high do you think the rear will sit?

I know so little about these kits for the Tundra that I dont even know if its worth pursuing at this point, but I want to make sure that when Im done the rear will be able to keep up with the front.
 
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#36 ·
he's up in Alaska, such a sick build
 
#39 ·
Dropping the truck off at DMZ Fab and Race Prep today.

Going with a Tim Duncan Special. Full SUA conversion and half bed cage. Fox 16" 2.5 triple bypasses, Fox 3" bumps, Deaver I96s.

After install, I will mock up some gear weight. RTT, rack, fluids, spares, etc. Should be almost 1000lbs loaded, although I am trying to keep that closer to 800lbs. I worked out a deal with DMZ and Deaver so that I can swap the leafs out with a custom set if the I96s dont handle my gear weight.
 
#43 ·
Oside. So when you talked to Tim, what were his thoughts on just relocating the shock mounts but not going through the bed? I really don't want to punch through the bed.

N2, what did you do to your shocks to get more travel out of them? Is this something you would recommend me doing too?
 
#44 ·
Piece of cake. Only thing that sucks is Tim wants a lot of labor to do any kind of shock mount relocation. In his opinion (and I completely agree), the proper way to relocate shock mounts is to strip down the leaf pack and fully cycle the suspension. He wont do it any other way. There are three options for you to get more rear travel:

1) full SUA and some type of bed cage - expensive $$$ 16"-18" travel (I might actually pull 17"-18" travel)

2) full SUA no bedcage, no holes in the bed - about 13" travel. Requires extensive fab, but about 1/3 less cost than option 1. Also, you dont have to run glass bedsides. I was at DMZ yesterday checking out my truck. There is no way to avoid glass without limiting up-travel by about 1"-2".

3) deavers and 10"-12" shocks - relocate upper shock mounts. Should be good for 10"-12" travel. You wont really know how much travel until it gets cycled. You will only have about 10" of sprung travel though. The bottom 2" or so will be unsprung and only good for articulation. Do a bypass and deavers you will kick azz!

You could always try to fit a longer shock with deavers without reloacting the upper shock mount. Craig did this (but he also blew out a shock...). But you are spending $$$ and time for an inch or two gain. Doesnt seem worth it to me. I tried to cheap out on my rear and I wasted about $1k doing it half ass. I mean, the alcans and foxs are a good budget setup, but its bypasses that make the real difference.

If you ask me, I think the best budget system would be deavers and a proper-sized triple bypass like what USMCHOG is doing with King. Forget about travel numbers, that setup is gonna ride very nice!
 
#46 ·
I really want to see how usmchog set up turns out.
He's doing it the right way. When you add deavers and ots shocks from fox or king, you are limiting your travel because the shock manufactures want to put out a shock that will work with stock leafs.

Deavers are capable of additional travel, especially when combined with +3 shackles. But they have to be combined with a shock length that is non-standard. If King does the R&D to fit the proper size bypass with deavers, then that will be a game changer!

Hey hog! Where you at with those kings???

I want Craig to get front bypasses so I can compare a MT front/LT rear truck with a LT front/MT rear...
 
#47 ·
I can't say my shock change caused the shock to blow or not, I think it was a lack of proper length bump stop and the shaft bottomed out too far at the end. Bypasses would have made a big difference too. I just haven't had the time/money to do the rear bumps yet.
 
#48 ·
hog, are you getting bypassed specific for deaver k37's springs? and are they gonna bolt in to the OEM upper shock mounts?
 
#49 ·
I just checked build status with Brian at King. He's hoping to have them done this week. They fell behind because Ross broke his hand last week and needed surgery. They're out for plating now. I hope they're done by the end of the week but want them done right so if I have to wait a few more days that's fine. Just need them before I depart on the 22nd for the Utah trip. Not sure when I'll have a chance to do proper setup before I depart. Was hoping to get a run in with Oside or DirtyDeeds to help me tune them before departing.

My Deavers are not the standard K37's. I had Jeff at Deaver design them around my needs/build. Yes, I'm using the factory shock mounts.
 
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#53 ·
Make sure that you get the collapsed and extended length of the shocks so that we know exactly how long they are.

If King doesnt want to give out that info cuz its proprietary, then make sure they give you a King part number so other guys can order it.

Scoob, save up for those bypasses. Deavers+bypasses = game changer :nerd:
 
#50 ·
the only difference in the springs is that they are setup to carry more weight right. the sprung travel should be the same if theyre still SOA.
 
#51 ·
Yes, you are correct.
 
#56 ·
You have Deaver's for sale Craig?
 
#58 ·
Keith I'll be giving you a call tomorrow about the deavers and the spindle gusset kit. I'm not locked into the springs yet. There was an issue with ETA so I'm in limbo till I confirm the order.
 
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#89 ·
I believe that the K37 generate minimal lift. They have a little more arch so they require longer shackles. Deaver advertises that the TC shackles are required. I believe that those shackles are +3/4. So I think you get one inch total lift from the combination of +3/4 shackles and slightly more arch in the leafs.

Scoob, I think +1 shackles will not be enough for you

this is totally the wrong spot to ask this..... but if I tried every different size and combination of washers, cb spacers +/- everything for the mid bearing u joint....

I still get axcel wrap vibs slightly when i floor it through an intersection, up to 20 mph (ish)

so I gave up and learned to accept it, and now i embrace the driveline takeoff vib.

is there anything else to try? or live with it? will it take out the ujoint eventually?
I had about 2" lift with a carrier bearing drop and no vibes.

You said you have stock leafs. Do you have shackles or is your rear completely stock? If its stock I would ditch the spacers and check out your driveline as others have said. Ujoints most likely, but could also be unbalanced or bent drive shaft

theyre completely legal in Colorado, but you need a prescription for them in cali.
Or a gf with a prescription... :D
 
#64 ·
I was wondering the same thing. the deaver description says they offer 1 inch lift. so I ordered +1 CB shackles.
 
#65 ·
Cool. That will probably sit about perfect. Coach told me I would want a +2 with Kings up front and stock leafs in the rear.
 
#66 ·
that's what he told me too. but every Toyota is a little different. so I waited till I got c/o's installed and now im just a hair higher in the front. and if the deavers do provide 1" lift, and the +2's are good for 1" lift (I think), that would be to high for my likings. I want a leveled truck, or as close to level I can get.
 
#69 ·
Lol. How much weight? I actually would like the ass a little high as all springs seem to settle a little. I would rather toss a couple bags of sand in back to level it while they break in than to start out perfectly level and end up with a lean 6 months later. Although Im not sure if settling is an issue with high dollar leafs like Deavers.
 
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#68 ·
one thing ive learned about Toyotas is that they all are a little different. if you go to a dealership and look at all there trucks. no two sit exactly the same. at least that have been my past experience.

and weight in the bed will change everything.
 
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#70 ·
my truck has +3 CB and have kings too, and mine is level.



and the kings are not cranked up
 
#75 ·
Kinda seems like the best thing to is install the springs, load the bed with an average expected load, and then measure for the shackles.
 
#76 ·
this is totally the wrong spot to ask this..... but if I tried every different size and combination of washers, cb spacers +/- everything for the mid bearing u joint....


I still get axcel wrap vibs slightly when i floor it through an intersection, up to 20 mph (ish)



so I gave up and learned to accept it, and now i embrace the driveline takeoff vib.

is there anything else to try? or live with it? will it take out the ujoint eventually?
 
#79 ·
How many miles on the U joint? Ive noticed before that ANY change in angle can cause vibes with an old joint because they can take a "set". As if they have been used to operating at a certain range and even though the change in angle is in spec for a new joint, the old joint doesn't like it. I know that sounds weird but Ive experienced it. I put in a new joint and it lasted for 60K with no vibes or issues
 
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