For Best deals on King, Fox, Icon or Camburg Despised has the best prices he has a nice hook up at King, Camburg and can also get fiberglass at great prices.
Coilovers of your choice King, Fox, Icon
4WD extended axles if 4WD
Rear shocks
Deaver leaf springs K037
Fiber glass fenders you can get away with just the fronts with this setup
The next route is same as above but you can also run bypass shocks and will also need to buy or fab up a bypass shock bracket, also your coilovers will prob need revalved for the added bypasses. Also a good time to add bump stops.The front will be an awesome ride but the rear will buck do to the front being super smooth.
The next route gets into the costlier side, do to a lot more fabrication involved.
Same as above except your going to be focusing on upgrading the rear you have a few options the more popular route is running under sprung Deaver leaf springs,rear bumpstops,rear bypass shocks you will also need to cut into your bed and fabricate a bed cage for the bypass shocks to extend through. You will also
Need to run rear glass fenders.
If you don't want to cut into your bed you can have what's called a cantilever setup. This is more pricey then a bed cage but if utilizing bed space is important to you then this route is the way to go. It looks like this
Basically long travel can range anywhere from 10-30k plus depending on what your intentions are. You can go all out from the start or you can work at it little by little
For Fiberglass Fenders some of the best companies are
What if I was interested in a single rate setup that could handle a little more weight? I am going to end up with a four wheel camper in a year or two. So lets assume a total load weight of 1400lbs (includes all gear, gas, water, passengers etc., and stock front bumper). I already know how I will set up the rear, but what do you think I would need in the front for high speed desert travel? I wont be jumping, just gettin to the remote areas as fast as possible without breaking anything.
Do you think that a single rate setup with a re-valved 2.5 and a higher rate coil would be enough? Or with that kind of weight do I really need a dual rate setup? I dont think I can afford dual rate, but if the single rate will do what I want I might just go for it
"The next route is same as above but you can also run bypass shocks and will also need to buy or fab up a bypass shock bracket, also your coilovers will prob need revalved for the added bypasses. Also a good time to add bump stops. The front will be an awesome ride but the rear will buck do to the front being super smooth."
Is this so you can fit 3.0s or is this for 2.5 bypass as well? I am looking to put 3.0s on my truck in the near future with a LT but keep hearing/reading they won't fit. I always assumed fabricating is what would be needed for 3.0s.
lol I didn't ask what size I have but I figure it's 2.5 and as you can see its a tight fit already. Besides they told me if I can break these then I would have other things to worry about.
there is a huge difference in the way a 3" handles versus a 2.5", it's not about whether one is stronger than another, it's that a 3" acts like it has more compression valving than it has without being harsh like it would be if it had more compression valving if that makes sense LOL.
Ok I've been searching on kings website and can't find an actual picture of a long travel coilover looks like, if anybody can post one that would be awesome, I know what the bypass looks like but I'm wondering how this all supposed to look. These are the coilovers I have now so would just add a bypass to it or do I need new coilovers all together?
BTW, I spoke with TC last week and verified that RW wheels can be run with 37" tires and NO wheel spacers with their kit without issues. The Mr. T truck on their website is set up this way.
Having to run spacers with these kits was a big turn off for me. Now that I know I dont have to run them I am starting to re-think the direction I am going my my truck...
Oh wow!! That's a really good idea!! I wonder how much nitro pressure they put in those.
Also, I know with king bumps comp and rebound valving is 20/20. Of using bumps as overloads you could use like 12rebound but leave comp 20 and it would pop out the bump way faster and probably ride smoother.
I've never seen a hydro bump just fall out if the can like that, I'll call rpg right now and see how they got that to happen.
Anybody wanna see a bolt on hydro bump for the tundra?
I was at 4wheel parts and seen them testing one of those from Fox and they have a lot of resistance! !!! They were also adjustable! ! So u can carry weight one day and long travel the next!!!!
Dude!! I'm so doing this!! I was gojng to build a kit to make a sua deaver bolt right on with no welding required so that I could still tow, but bolt in deavers would work with this hydro bump as a overload!! I'm on this
I think its cool that you can load up a raptor like that, but they only drove it on the street. I would rather handle the weight with springs so I can carry weight off road. Whats the point of having a raptor, modding it to carry weight, but only on the street???
My springs ride super nice unloaded for DD duty. I just put about 50mi on them in Anza with just under 800lbs loaded and they performed flawlessly. I did 50 mph on shell reef and recorded them for several minutes. Only hit the bumps a couple times and barely at that. I have no doubt that I could load the max gvwr and still mash around the desert without issues.
Springs are simpler and more reliable.
I suppose a true long travel rear would not perform well with a compromise like this, but I would just use a trailer if I had a raptor and needed to tow something heavy in a pinch. I guess I just dont understand the concept here
I believe the original intent was so folks could use their Raptors as if it were a regular F150 in regards to towing payload and/or get their "desert toys" out to the desert without bottoming out the rear suspension whether your towing (6000lbs for the Raptor SuperCrew) or in the bed (the suspension is very soft), then a 5 minute swap back to the 2.5 bump stops and your off and running again with your hair on fire in the desert and not necessarily as an expedition vehicle towing a crap ton of gear through the desert. This was not designed for "normal" trucks. A lot easier throwing stuff into the bed with the added support from the 4.0 bumps stops when hauling more than 800lbs?
Putting stiffer springs on a "Baja" truck (softer suspension) would mean you would need to constantly have weight in the back of the truck or you will literally bounce your kidneys out
I eventually plan on adding a LT kit to my tundra and coilover (reservoir)/bypass shocks front and rear/deavers etc., and be able to use my truck like a normal truck when I need to with a similar set up for the Tundra (cough, cough) Keith!
The bump stop overloads are badass! It allows you to have your cake and eat it too
My 1gen used to have deaver bolt in springs. You'd have to see them in person to know what I'm talking about. You can bottom them out by jumping on the back with a friend. They off road really well, but there is like zero weight capacity. Those over load bumps allow weight when you wanna carry it, but put in regular bumps when off roading and enjoy a Cadillac ride in the dirt.
The more weight you spring a vehicle to have the stiffer it rides.
Since you're going to be off roading with weight, I'd suggest you skip the bolt in deavers and go straight to spring under axle deavers, or sua. The extra arc will allow you to have the weight you want and still off road.
I've put 4 trash cans in the back of my truck (with sua) and filled em up with water, that's 50 gallons each at 8.34 lbs each gallon, so over 2600 lbs and I was only compressed a few inches with a lot of room to spare before hittin the bumps.
Sua is far superior, but soa is simpler. Haha, until you install bolt in bumps that you can swap out, then it's kinda a toss up
What about true long travel air bags??? I saw a company that makes them for rams (I wanna say 10" or 12" long). I am imagining a sua with maybe 16" travel and sturdy, extra long airbags. Maybe even have two stacked up for stability? Or even a bigazz one like from a commercial truck...
Then you could run very soft sua deavers and air up the bags when needed. Wonder why we dont see more of this?
Keith why don't you make a bracket like that to hold a bump so we don't have to cut the bed. I really need to figure my rear out cause I am not liking my truck so much nowadays. I need it work off-road but also carry my 500lbs of gear plus be able to still tow my boat to the lake. I will buy it if you build it.
I am not going LT till I can figure out the rear.
the only long travel set ups for our trucks go 2" over. It's thousands of dollars to replace the rear end, and at only 2" over I'd just leave the back alone. Our trucks are already really wide. The tubular chromoly upper arm that I just built for my truck today is as long at the long travel upper on my 1gen:lol5: and the front end pulls the same amount of travel:lol5:
If you absolutely had to have the back as wide as the front, my personal opinion is that a 2" spacer is fine.
If you wanted a custom rear end, keep in mind that you have to run the stock tube ends and stock axles or your abs would be disabled which would disable your traction control, auto lsd, and who knows how badly your ecu would get confused.
Looks similar to the RPG system as a bolt on/frame support? It also looks like maybe a 2.0 bump stop? Wonder if you could fit something similar to RPGs 4.0 for toting around heavier loads, then pop it of to blaze through the desert with your hair on fire? Might have to give Camburg a call.
There really is a ton of room under there, I'm really surprised the bump has to go thru the bed. Despised, do u have any pics if the set up you're referring to?
^^ he just got his pee pee spanked for pitching products in one of my threads. He might be grounded now lol
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