6" lift on 12 crewmax

[Brost]

What are you sanding?
That black fender liner I believe you remove 3 bolts get some one to push it as far forward as you can and redrill l the holes. Trim and cut the excess off after.
Tundras look really good with a 6" and 37s tucked up. No need for a BL until you go with a wider rim or less BS.

[LacrosseBoy]

Originally Posted by Brost

What are you sanding?
That black fender liner I believe you remove 3 bolts get some one to push it as far forward as you can and redrill l the holes. Trim and cut the excess off after.
Tundras look really good with a 6" and 37s tucked up. No need for a BL until you go with a wider rim or less BS.

I would be sanding the red part in the picture where its rubbing but not by alot.

I just realized that if I push the fender liner in I will just need to drill into the plastic part and keep the same hole in the metal or bumper part?

[Brost]

Originally Posted by LacrosseBoy

I would be sanding the red part in the picture where its rubbing but not by alot.

I just realized that if I push the fender liner in I will just need to drill into the plastic part and keep the same hole in the metal or bumper part?

Exactly re drill and cut excess plastic and nothing to do with the metal.

[LacrosseBoy]

Originally Posted by Brost

Exactly re drill and cut excess plastic and nothing to do with the metal.

What would be the best way to line up the plastic to redrill the hole.

[Brost]

Originally Posted by LacrosseBoy

What would be the best way to line up the plastic to redrill the hole.

I think I trimmed about an 1" off the plastic first following the lines of the plastic and then got some one to push it forward and I redrilled the 3-4 holes or what ever it was.

[STRICK]

Originally Posted by LacrosseBoy

Got a picture of the wheel at full wheel lock and my dad got a picture of it.
The red is where its rubbing on the plastic and the yellow is where its rubbing on the tire. These are toyo M/T tires so its rubbing on the very edge where i circled it in yellow.



Tomorrow my dad said I should try sanding it, I will be sanding it tomorrow since I dont need to get that much off.

Check out this link. Creating wheel well clearence
It's a very easy fix to get rid of that rubbing.

[KDMac015]

I'm liking the color. Crewmaxes look better and better lifted.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App

[LacrosseBoy]

I cut the extra plastic off after I moved the fender up and no more rubbing at full wheel lock in reverse thanks guys.

[kevinnn]

Originally Posted by LacrosseBoy

Thanks man, the ride quality is realy good it ride smooth. As far as the rear I used the block that came with the procomp kit. I forgot to order the 3" shackles for coachbuilder but when i get the body lift and 37" tires im going to have them install the shackles and TRD rear Swaybar. Im not sure what the rear shocks do so maybe you can give me some info on that.

I got my whole setup a wheelware house for 6600. That includes procomp stage 1, icon coilovers, 20" xd monsters, 37" toyo M/T, alignment and tax .

I went to 4wheel the quote they gave me was horrible. the said for 5500 procomp stange 1, 17" wheels, and 33" tires.
So that didnt even include icon coilovers, alignment, and tax and was a major downgrade in wheels and tires.

Upgrading the rear shocks just makes the rear end ride smoother from what iv'e heard. Anyone correct me if im wrong

[LacrosseBoy]

Originally Posted by kevinnn

Upgrading the rear shocks just makes the rear end ride smoother from what iv'e heard. Anyone correct me if im wrong

Thanks Im going to buy a pair when I deside to got with the 3" BL so the back will ride smooth.