3/1 lift on Rock Warrior - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 01:42 PM
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3/1 lift on Rock Warrior

Hello. Just got 2011 Rock Warrior and want to lift and level it. Looking at the various 3/1 options and have a few of questions:

1. The RW is already taller (lifted) vs. a regular Tundra no? Is this done by lowering the brackets and such or is there already a block spacer between strut and shock, thus making adding a 3/1 impossible or at least a bad idea due to sharp drive shaft angles increased CV stress.

2. It comes with Bilstein's already, any advantage to switch out for 5100's vs. the 3/1 blocks?

3. In the rear; add a leaf or block?

4: Those who have done this modification a couple years/10k miles ago, any problems/issues, things you'd do differently?

I will, like everyone, spend most time on-road but like to put trucks through their paces when off-road. Any brand recommendations welcome as well. Thanks guys
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#2 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 02:40 PM
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I am running the 5100's all the way around on my RW. They do have more control than the stock shocks. I am set to the highest setting in the front and got 3" out of it. In the rear i have the air bags set at 20lbs.

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#3 (permalink) Old 11-18-2011, 08:23 PM
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Thanks nate. The 5100's seem a great way to go. What do you mean by air bags set to 20lbs?

My apologies, first venture into lifting a truck, or owning a Tundra for that matter. Never did anything to mod my 01 Tacoma.
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#4 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 05:02 PM
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I have hell wig helper air bags in the rear, set at 20 lbs seems to ride the best for me
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrShoe View Post
Hello. Just got 2011 Rock Warrior and want to lift and level it. Looking at the various 3/1 options and have a few of questions:

1. The RW is already taller (lifted) vs. a regular Tundra no? Is this done by lowering the brackets and such or is there already a block spacer between strut and shock, thus making adding a 3/1 impossible or at least a bad idea due to sharp drive shaft angles increased CV stress.

2. It comes with Bilstein's already, any advantage to switch out for 5100's vs. the 3/1 blocks?

3. In the rear; add a leaf or block?

4: Those who have done this modification a couple years/10k miles ago, any problems/issues, things you'd do differently?

I will, like everyone, spend most time on-road but like to put trucks through their paces when off-road. Any brand recommendations welcome as well. Thanks guys
1... The RW, if taller than a factory truck, is due to a marginal increase in tire size... I think they might be a few tenths taller than a factory tire.

2. They have Bilstein shocks that the are non-adjustable, and while better than the factory (non-offroad package) shocks... they can be better.

3. In the rear.. AAL or a shackle lift... if you don't want to do a full leaf pack. Blocks are okay but can crack if you're off-roading a lot. Coachbuilder builds a phenomenal shackle and they'll give you anywhere from like 1-3" lift depending on what you want (he'd be the guy to ask on that).

If you're really putting your truck through the paces off-road, I'd recommend Old Man Emu struts. Mine sees a lot of road use as well as dirt-road/gravel driving. Hasn't let me down yet and is SO much smoother than factory SR5 shocks it's not even fair..

If you're using FULL travel of the suspension, I'd stay away from the 5100s unless you're doing a bumpstop mod.

And, airbags wo'nt be any good for you if you're not hauling. They'll provide lift, but at a sacrifice of serious ride quality and dependability (that's questionable though).

-rockstate
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 07:47 PM
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Spacer lift problems

A few people have experienced the above just recently...not cheap.


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