I got this truck about 5 weeks ago. It came from Virginia. When I got it and washed it I noticed some rust spots on the whole body, doors, wheel wells, hood, and bed. A buddy that lives in Iowa that has a white Taco had the same issue after the winter. Supposedly from the nasty stuff they use on the roads. He said buy a case of beer and clay bar the whole body.
I spent about 9 hours doing that and removed every rust spot on it. Even ones the size of this ( . ) When going over spots I could feel little pieces of grit in the center of the rust spot. The clay removed it so problem solved never to be seen again.
4 weeks later (7/19/14) I notice some more spots on the rear door on the driver's side. I hand wash the truck to get the dust off and can see the whole door is covered with rust spots AGAIN. There are a few spots on the drivers door and some on the hood and some on the passenger side. But the back door on the driver's side is covered. I can run my finger over it and feel the grit that is stuck to the clear coat. I can't believe that this has happened again. What the hell kind of clear coat does this? Is it freakin children's water color or what?
I have put around 700 miles on the truck since ive gotten it. Its been washed 3 or 4 times and waxed after the clay bar session. It is garage kept and has only been rained on once. I haven't been mudding or doing anything.
There are two other newer white Toyotas in my family and neither have this problem (2010 highlander and 2011 rav4).
"All brake pads are going to release some amount of particles and dust. The amount and color of the particles and dust will vary depending on the pad compound but in general, the more aggressive the compound is, the more dust and noise it will generate. Many ceramic compound pads release a lighter color dust that does not show up as easily on the surface of your wheels. The trade off is often a pad with a lower friction coefficient so it’s important to keep in mind you will be giving up some of the initial bite and grip when using a ceramic pad over a more aggressive compound pad.
New brake pads may often produce some initial noise and dusting which will diminish as the transfer film is built up on the bare rotor surface. This is normal for most brake pads and it will go away as the surfaces properly bed-in. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor. This helps to minimize brake shudder and the possibility of warping the rotors due to uneven heating".
That's what I used to wax it after clay bar the first time. It's pretty annoying if I will have to be doing this every few weeks. What kind of time in between wax jobs for you?
I plan on waxing my Tundra a four or five times per year. I bought a DA polisher to speed up the waxing process. I also use the nanoskin a couple of times per year as well.
The nanoskin is the best product to use (low effort and quick) for removing the brake dust flakes. It should only take about an hour to 'skin your Tundra.
When using the nanoskin, be sure to follow the instructions.
+1 on iron-x. I have a white 13 and the spots were everywhere after winter. I used the iron-x followed by clay and keep a good coat of wax on it. That was about 4 months ago and they have not come back. I am just figuring it is something I will be doing after every winter.
Changing pads may help, but I think that may be going a bit far. If pads are changed out, it should be for braking needs. Really, using a nanoskin mitt is not laborious; it works that well. Also, Iron X is an option too. A vehicle should be washed regularly anyway, so with a slight change to the usual soap and water, the nuisance is under control.
I'll admit, at first I was like "WTF". But after some research and discovering the nanoskin and Meguiars White Wax, I'm not the least bit concerned.
I have medium nanoskin and it works great. I think you'd be fine with either. Sorry if I'm asking questions already answered but I just breezed through. If you don't have a DA polisher, invest in one. With the super white I nano 2-3 times a year, doing it by hand will get old quick. The DA is fast and it'll help if/when u start using paint correction products, which you will also need with super white lol. If it hasn't already been mentioned, no top coat of clear on super white, it's in the paint itself, making it a pain in the arse. I did notice someone mentioned rust spots from the plows, rail dust I believe it's called. I believe I have this issue due to heavy concentration of rust spots after winter. Good luck with it and as mentioned earlier, read the white tundra thread and also the detail guru thread, member JumboJet is a wealth of knowledge along with some others.
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