Swapping tires from left to right is a good idea. Some tires are just built badly and can cause a pull. I've seen a car get two bad tires in a row and make it hard to diagnose a pull.
To diagnose a sticking caliper use a temp gun like this:
Drive the truck around a good bit and then measure the rotors on all four corners. Record it on a piece of paper and then do it again to double check the numbers. A binding caliper will cause the rotor to be hotter than the rotor on the other side.
Also, not all alignment techs are created equal. Some guys are paid hourly and getting you out the door quick is often more important than making sure the alignment is spot on.
So before you through out thousands on trading it in make sure to find a reputable shop and spend a couple hundred on a top alignment shop. A good alignment shop might just be able to find that stuck rotor or bent suspension piece that is causing problems.
The Following User Says Thank You to dsmwil For This Useful Post:
I haven't had a chance to jack it up, check for drag, look at the brake hardware. If the truck pulls right, you'd think it was the passenger side caliper right?
Well I did a spit test. I pulled over & spit on each rotor. The driver side sizzled more then the passenger. The passenger really didnt sizzle. It don't make sense the driver side seems hotter with the pull to the right. well I sure the spit test sounds corny but worth a observation. I think my neighbor had a heat sense gun. I'm gonna borrow it & take show readings.
I really think the pull is too strong to be a caliper.
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2010 DC Longbed, Work truck package, 4.6
I was never accurate enough with my spit to be able to use like this. Are you sure you got the same amount of spit on each rotor.
Well the 1st wad on the 1st rotor was a good splat.
My second performance on the other wheel took two tries.
Not really a great test procedure, lol!
Hopefully tomorrow, I'll get a chance to look around at things before I bring it back to the alignment guys.
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2010 DC Longbed, Work truck package, 4.6
Sticking brakes can cause some funky stuff like pulling one way cold, then exhibiting an opposite pull on braking due to fade on the side that's sticking.
I'd correct the camber, first. Both tires lean to the right. Even up the camber and retest.
So I brought it back. Same dude aligned it again, took it for a test drive with me in it. I watched the truck drive to the right with him driving. We both observed it did the same damn pull to the right.
He gets it back on the rack for a 3rd time & set it up as pictured below.
He says he's never had to set up a rear wheel drive truck with that much caster'
Well...this still is foreign to me, so you guys look at the specs...
So now it doesn't dart right. It drives pretty straight. I don't have to tug on the wheel left to keep it from pulling right. Even though it drives better, I have a feeling the tires are going to wear odd. We'll see. This truck will never be 100% IMO unfortunately.
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2010 DC Longbed, Work truck package, 4.6
The Following User Says Thank You to NY-Vmax-Joe For This Useful Post:
Caster doesnt cause abnormal tire wear. It will affect pull though. also a good way to check if you have a sticking brake caliper would be to use an infared thermoter and check the temp of each rotor. they should be around the same temp, if one is a fair amount higher it would be the one sticking.
The Following User Says Thank You to jimalan1989 For This Useful Post:
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2010 Tundra 5.7 CM Rockwarrior 4X4
. Hope all is well.
