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Old 05-28-2008, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I did the black headlight mod today , pics !

I've been wanting to do this for awhile , so today was the day !

Before pic .



Some pics during the process .







And the finished product !





Pretty easy mod to do , glue gets messy but I think it's worth the time .

What do you think ?
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I like it, I just dont want to bake my headlights, is there another way to take them apart? And what do you think about color matching, like if I painted mine white, kinda like a corvette.
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Can you get rid of the amber side lens?
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I like it, I just dont want to bake my headlights, is there another way to take them apart? And what do you think about color matching, like if I painted mine white, kinda like a corvette.
The baking bit is at 275 degrees for about 11 to 12 mins . , No problems at all at that temp .

I think that whatever color you want , just do it !

That reflector is all I 've seen , unless someone knows of another color that will fit there .
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carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Im nervous, this is just like the free mod between the windows!
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Niiiice

ramoine

Looks great. I need to find someone here that I can pay to do these types of mods for me. Really tough look to your truck. How long start to finish did it take?
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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About three hours start to finish .

thanks !
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2008 Crewmax X-SP
carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Im nervous, this is just like the free mod between the windows!
You can do it Bro !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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2008 Crewmax X-SP
carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Im nervous, this is just like the free mod between the windows!
Ha ha I never had the balls to do mine...

The blacked out headlights look sa-weet!

I wonder how white would look???
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks Hawaii 5.7 , if I had a white truck it would depend on the look I was going for . But if white was what I chose , then I would paint them white regardless of what others thought .
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2008 Crewmax X-SP
carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You can do it Bro !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looks great Bill! Didn't know you had it in you man! Nice job!
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Looks great Bill! Didn't know you had it in you man! Nice job!
Thanks Dez , it's pretty easy !
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2008 Crewmax X-SP
carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks Dez , it's pretty easy !
Where's that thread with the directions bro? I may just do this tomorrow.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:52 PM   #14 (permalink)
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DIY Black Headlight Mod (w/ video tut) - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation

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DIY Black Headlight Mod (w/ video tut)

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Like many Tundra owners I have wanted to do the black headlight mod. Also, like many Tundra owners, I wasn't able to find any definite information with enough detail about the process. So I decided to just make a video of me doing it to my own 2008 Tundra. The video should be thorough enough for anyone to watch and be able to do this. It's not hard at all and only takes a few hour's time to do it. The hardest part is watching the paint dry and knowing its going to look great once it's done. The materials that I used were either laying around in the garage already or were bought from Home Depot. The stuff I bought at HD ($3 spray paint, $3 spray handle, $2 adhesive/sealant) was about $9.55 altogether. The cool thing is that you can take the spray handle back when you're done as long as you don't take the paper thing off of it. I know...I'm cheap, lol.

This is all based on my experience in the past few hours. I have done this before on my Ford F-150 that I traded in for the Tundra, so I was familiar with the process. The Tundra is about the exact same (screws are different and in different spots) <---with a few exceptions. I will say this now: This process worked perfect for me as you will see in the video, but I am NOT responsible for anything going wrong for anyone else. Ovens vary, climates vary (paint related), etc.

Here is the Video Tutorial. Right-Click and save it to your computer. Please do not stream it, more people can get it if it is downloaded instead of streamed from my site.

Here is the Text Tutorial:

.:Tools Needed:.

~Ratchet and 10mm socket
~#15 Torx Screwdriver
~#1 or #2 Phillips Screwdriver
~Decent sized Flathead Screwdriver
~Choice of spraypaint (pick any plastic/vehicle specific paint *krylon fusion/rust-o-leum equivalent*)
~Painter's Tape (the blue kind)
~Razor Knife/Blade
~Sealant/Adhesive (RTV works, I got one that was marine grade)
**optional**
~A fan (to help speed paint drying time)
~Gloves (the lens gets very hot after baking...I burned 3 fingertips)
~Spray Can Handle (makes for easier spraying)
~Steel Wool (to scuff the areas to be painted)
~Work Light (found it pretty handy for this mod)
~Patience (you'll need it)

.:The Process:.

Open your hood and take your ratchet and 10mm socket and take the top 2 screws out. Then take a flathead screwdriver and pry behind the plastic trim beneath the light housing where the two black plastic clips are to get them a little loose. Then take the same screwdriver and pry the clips out. Move to the other side of the trim and use a little bit of elbow grease to pull the trim from the body where it meets the body, pulling STRAIGHT FORWARD and the piece should come out after a few wiggles. You won't break it, I promise.

Then take the ratchet and take out the 3rd screw holding the light housing. Next, pull the housing straight out using a hand at the area where you pulled the black clips out and one on the top. It should come straight out. Then unplug all of the lights, the gray ones can just be pressed and removed while the black ones need a flathead screwdriver to lift the clips in order to be unplugged. The next step is to take the bulbs out of the housing by going in a counter-clockwise direction. Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosy. There is one bulb that is a little harder to get out than the other 3, use some force and it will come out.

Then take your #15 torx screwdriver and remove 6 screws that are on the back of the housing. Next, take your #1/2 phillips and take out the 3 screws you see where one of the bulbs go in. Then take a flathead screwdriver and pry up the rubber flashing, there should be an open spot in the plastic around it to get the flathead under the rubber, and then pull it up and off of the housing. Now you're ready to bake the housing.

Turn your oven on to 275 degrees and get out a cookie sheet that will be big enough for the housing. Also have your flathead standing by after baking. Make sure to adjust the rack(s) in your oven and double check that you can get the headlight+cookie sheet in there as high up as possible from the heating element. Some people have had problems where the housing gets too hot and slightly melts the corner (where the reflector is) due to it being too close to the element. Also, the headlight needs to be in the *center* of the oven. The melting is extremely rare because, so far, I've only heard of a single case of it out of the tons of people that have performed the mod. Beware that a replacement headlight is $$$ from Toyota. So just save yourself the hassle and do a quick check before-hand to make sure it'll fit in there properly. Once the oven is up to 275 put the housing in there. Wait about 9-12 minutes and then pull it out. As quickly as possible, but not rushing, use the flathead screwdriver to just scrape between the lens and the black housing all the way around, getting as deep as you can. This is to kinda loosen the adhesive. Then find a few good areas to grip on and pull the lens from the housing. This will take a decent amount of elbow grease as the adhesive is tough stuff. After about 30 seconds you should have the lens pried off. If you aren't wearing some kind of glove during this process try not to touch the center of the lens too much, it gets extremely hot and I actually burned three of my fingertips and it's a pain in the *** to type this right now. Owwie. Congratulations, the hardest part is over...except for the fact that you have to do this once more for the other headlight.

Next thing to do is take your #15 torx and take out the 2 torx screws that hold the chrome piece to the lens. Then you should be able to take it off. The orange reflector is only held on by a single little tab, just push it and the reflector should come out super easy. If you want to, at this point, you can scuff up the chrome a little using steel wool or a very fine grit sandpaper. This gives a nice semi-rough surface for the paint to adhere to. I chose steel wool because its what I have laying around. This step is not extremely necessary since you bought plastic/vehicle specific spray paint, but for some peace of mind I did it anyway. Then take your blue painter's tape and start masking the turn signal lens. I used 3 strips of 1 1/4" tape. Then take your razor and carefully cut along the line around the actual opening for the lens so that you are painting everything but the opening. I used a marker and made the lines where I needed to cut while using a light to shine through the tape so I could see the edges.

Now take your chrome piece to be painted and your spray paint and go outside, in the backyard, frontyard, wherever, just don't spray this thing near any other vehicles such as the restoration-in-progress 1968 Camaro SS I have in the garage or my Tundra w/ missing headlights. The overspray *will* adhere to anything it lands on so be careful. Take the spray can (and spray handle if you opted to get that) and hold it about a forearm's length from the chrome piece and start dusting it. Dusting is where you are lightly applying paint, in a left to right motion (or right to left...whatever), starting the spray before the piece and waving past it and continuing to spray until you are clear of the piece. Don't try to get a full coat in one try, you will need to do 3 to 5 coats anyway and trying to get it all in one shot will only create pools and runs. You definitely don't want that. Definitely.

I set up a huge fan and a box to set the pieces on so they will dry faster, however the more flat or matte of a paint you get the faster it dries. Glossy paint takes longer. I let them sit in front of the fan for about 10 minutes each coat before I did another one. Do about 3-5 coats making sure you get every spot on the housing. Once you are satisfied with the coverage you then need to peel off the masking around the turn signal lens using your razor blade. Re-install the orange reflector. Make sure to not ding the paint, even after 3-5 coats it can still ding and chip easily. This is a good time to make sure and clean the inside of the lens to get rid of any fingerprints you may have put on it. Put the painted piece back on the lens then replace the two torx screws to attach them together. Now take your lens and the adhesive you purchased and make sure to fill any spots that seem low on adhesive on both the lens and the housing. You don't want to miss any areas because if you do there is a high chance of moisture getting inside the light later on and that will look bad after a while. Really seal this bad boy up. Follow the setting and drying times for whichever adhesive you bought. Then just leave the light alone until the adhesive is set completely. Another way to do it is to just put the lens back on and bake the entire assembly again for another 9 minutes to get the adhesive gooey once more, when you pull it out just press the pieces together and hold for a few minutes until it cools off. What I did specifically was add adhesive, and then put the 6 torx screws back in, but only enough so they caught the threads on the lens, then I baked the entire peice for 9 minutes and when I pulled it out I tightened the screws down which pulled the lens and housing together with very litte effort. In the video I show the beginning of that process, but I forgot to take a clip of me screwing it together coming out of the oven...it makes it a lot easier.

Now all you have to do is put the 6 torx screws back on to attach the housing to the lens (if you haven't already done so), put the rubber pieces back on, the little ring with 3 phillips screws, the bulbs (righty-tighty), re-attach all of the plugs, screw the housing back on to your Tundra and pop the trim piece back in. Then enjoy a killer looking set of DIY black headlights. I recommend taking a cruise at least once around the block. Yes, that's silly but I love driving my Tundra

Hope you guys enjoy this tutorial and I believe I covered everything, but if not let me know and I'll make some additions/changes. Hopefully this gets stickied as I know a lot of people will find it useful.
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2008 Crewmax X-SP
carbon Fiber Dash kit
20" JTI Rims
BFG AT KO 285/55/20
AFE C.A.I w/ Dry Pro filter and the AFE Mod
Blacked out Headlight Mod.
Flo~Pro muffler #744
Toytec 3" front , 1" rear blocks and Diff. lowering kit
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:13 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I've seen the white headlight mod on a few white Tundras and it looks good, IMO. Thought about trying it myself, but I'm just too lazy for that kinda mod.
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