So this is how my tranny troubles begun...
I had lost about 2 litres of oil due to a leaking oil cooler hose during my recce run in a desert race, consequently the shifting was eratic and the car would not cross 65 mph when floored. The leak was identified after recce run and fixed and Atf ws was added to spec. Next day on race day, the vehicle behaved fine in the first 30 kms and later started doing the same thing which it did when the transmission was leaking oil.
When I disassembled the transmission, I did not find any clutch pack and friction plate to be worn out or damaged. I also did not find much debris on the magnets in the sump, oil smelled fine non burnt. Oil was replaced before we left for the race.
I will now try to explain what it did which led me to the transmission rebuilding.
When floored, it would barely reach 120kph and start cutting out fuel, then to make it upshift I had to lift my foot to about 60 percent throttle and then it would up shift and I would see a very slow increase in speed, if I floored the pedal again, it would down shift and cut fuel again. When the cooler hose was replaced and more oil was added I did a test run to 200kph and it behaved fine, next morning on the race day it was fine for the first 30 or so kms and later started acting up the same way as it did when the hose was leaking. However there was no leak this time around.
That lead me to ordering a full HD rebuild kit from John @IPT with his modified valve body a brand new and then HD rebuilt torque converter and two new HD springs for the accumulator pistons.
I did the rebuild myself; I was able to get the tranny in yesterday, went for a test run and did not get the results as expected and now I am kinda scratching my head!
1. I could not get in all the oil, it took approx. 9.5 Liters of oil as opposed to 12.8 liters in the repair manual. I followed the procedure and went for a drive too but that didn't really help.
2. From Parking to reverse the time it takes to engage is normal but from Neutral to Drive there is a good 3-4 seconds gap and the engagement is harsh with a thud.
3. Also, shifting from 1st to 2nd is fine and then into 3rd is alright but when you kick down the revs increase but there is no go... it feels as if it goes into neutral. Lift off the peddle and it would engage into a gear.
4. A few cars I have come across have some over the years have shift learning programs that need to be activated using the OBD-II after such jobs, so the tranny calibrates itself to shift ideally, do these vehicles have it too?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had lost about 2 litres of oil due to a leaking oil cooler hose during my recce run in a desert race, consequently the shifting was eratic and the car would not cross 65 mph when floored. The leak was identified after recce run and fixed and Atf ws was added to spec. Next day on race day, the vehicle behaved fine in the first 30 kms and later started doing the same thing which it did when the transmission was leaking oil.
When I disassembled the transmission, I did not find any clutch pack and friction plate to be worn out or damaged. I also did not find much debris on the magnets in the sump, oil smelled fine non burnt. Oil was replaced before we left for the race.
I will now try to explain what it did which led me to the transmission rebuilding.
When floored, it would barely reach 120kph and start cutting out fuel, then to make it upshift I had to lift my foot to about 60 percent throttle and then it would up shift and I would see a very slow increase in speed, if I floored the pedal again, it would down shift and cut fuel again. When the cooler hose was replaced and more oil was added I did a test run to 200kph and it behaved fine, next morning on the race day it was fine for the first 30 or so kms and later started acting up the same way as it did when the hose was leaking. However there was no leak this time around.
That lead me to ordering a full HD rebuild kit from John @IPT with his modified valve body a brand new and then HD rebuilt torque converter and two new HD springs for the accumulator pistons.
I did the rebuild myself; I was able to get the tranny in yesterday, went for a test run and did not get the results as expected and now I am kinda scratching my head!
1. I could not get in all the oil, it took approx. 9.5 Liters of oil as opposed to 12.8 liters in the repair manual. I followed the procedure and went for a drive too but that didn't really help.
2. From Parking to reverse the time it takes to engage is normal but from Neutral to Drive there is a good 3-4 seconds gap and the engagement is harsh with a thud.
3. Also, shifting from 1st to 2nd is fine and then into 3rd is alright but when you kick down the revs increase but there is no go... it feels as if it goes into neutral. Lift off the peddle and it would engage into a gear.
4. A few cars I have come across have some over the years have shift learning programs that need to be activated using the OBD-II after such jobs, so the tranny calibrates itself to shift ideally, do these vehicles have it too?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.