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Zero point calibration question

23K views 54 replies 20 participants last post by  Lando13 
#1 ·
Okay I have been doing some reading on here and found a PDF telling you how to do the ZPC... It is a bit confusing, and what I am wondering is if you have a tech stream can you use it to do this? It appears in the PDF you can, but as I said the PDF is a bit confusing.

Here is the PDF

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...-lift-issue-fix-confirmed-vsc-calibration.pdf


It appears like this is all you have to do, but seems a bit too good to be true, or too easy???

2. CLEAR ZERO POINT CALIBRATION DATA (WHEN USING TECHSTREAM)
(a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to ON.
(c) Operate the Techstream to erase the codes (select Reset Memory).
 
#6 ·
I've tried performing the vsc calibration with the check wire a couple times. I am following the instructions in the tsb that is floating around. After you clear it, turn the ignition off, insert wire, then turn the ignition back on, it says there will be a buzzer for 3 seconds. Is this one solid buzz for 3 seconds or beeps off and on for 3 second?

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#7 ·
It was 3 short Beeps.. that signaled you that it was done/calibrated..
 
#9 ·
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#10 ·
Ok so heres my experience w/ the ZPC. I have a CM 5.7 SR5 4WD. I installed the 7" BDS w/ 35x12.5 tires. I had noticed some power loss after the lift. I believed it to be the tires because what power I lost seemed about right for the lift and tires. I did not have any dash lights or experience any other issues as mentioned in this thread while driving. I did all I could to make a dash light or reaction from the trucks computer to happen and I did not observe anything. With the truck being brand new w/ 6k miles on it, I was very nervous about shorting a circuit. Rytesyde gave me great advice and w/ much confidence he convinced me to do the ZPC. I used the paper clip method and followed the "skip to step 4" on the above mentioned PDF. All went well and the ZPC was successful on the first try. I hopped in the drivers seat and immediately noticed the difference w/ nannies doing what nannies do. I then de-nannied the truck and WOW! I spun the 35's w/ WOT from a stand still while turning. Yes it was a turn, but I had to let off. Toyo's aren't cheap! Anyway, I could not do that prior to the ZPC. On the highway I observed better pick up and factory like response from the truck. For anyone that is nervous, trust me I understand. But I would recommend the ZPC. Hope this helps anyone with concern about this topic. Thanks again Rytesyde!
 
#15 ·
I think u might have forgot a step, I did this

I cut 2 pieces of wire like 2 foot long and inserted one wire into spot 4 one wire into spot 12,

Turn car on and tap the wires 4 times within 8 seconds, lights will go on, once they go off turn truck off

Next connect the 2 wires and then turn key to on, u should get 3 chimes. Once u get that u are good, turn key off then disconnect the battery and wait a few seconds and reconnect

U should be good,

If I am wrong please let me know
 
#16 ·
C0astie31, that is way cool ride you have. I looked at all those photos you posted. There is some dollarz sunk into that machine!

Anyway, looking at the .pdf that TKR Reptiles posted earlier http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...alibration.pdf it shows that your complete procedure is the correct one if you follow all the instructions on the calibration.pdf document.

Thanks again for the awesome photos and info.

The Minx
 
#17 ·
Wow

You can do it in tech stream. You go into the abs/vsc I think is what it said. Then you reset the codes and then go into test mode to complete it. Make sure you do both steps or you will have the vsc, abs, and the ebrake light on after you do the first step only. This is definitely highly recommended. I feel like I have my truck back again! I only have the bilstein 5100s on the middle setting and that was enough to make a huge difference after I did it. Do it if you haven't. You won't regret it!
 
#18 ·
hmm, subscribed. Now that I've almost leveled my truck, just Kings up front, back is stock, front is about 1/4" lower than back compared to back being way higher before level, and now my a/f ratio goes lean/rich much more than it did. before it would stay almost 14.7/1 nearly perfectly. Now it bounces around a lot more. Full throttle is still around 12/1, but idle and mellow cruise definitely bounces around a lot more. So idk, unless there's another problem, or an exhaust leak that just happened at the same time??

I can't say I've really noticed a power loss or anything. But Idk.
 
#21 ·
What if you did 3/1 leveling only. Should you still do the ZPC? I have 305/55R20 tires and can't spin tires from stop taking off. Once it goes it still has pep. I figured it was combination of CAI, Exhaust and Larger than stock tires. You stick the clip into the slots while key is in ignition in OFF position then turn to ON position?

Want to do this also but this is only vehicle I got so I do not want to inadvertently fry it.
 
#22 ·
Follow instructions in the PDF, its on the previous page. Thats all i did and all went well. I believed my power loss to be from other mods as well and i too was freaking out about shorting a circuit. You'll be fine and you'll be glad you did it.
 
#28 ·
Last night I signed up for a 5 year subscription to ALLDATADIY for $48.95 and looked for the ZPC Initialization document. I found the correct one and it matched the .pdf that TKR Reptiles posted earlier and the C0astie31 talked about also with the fiinal step of disconnecting the battery. The only difference was they wanted you to keep the NAV DVD in the drive if you had one and to wait 90 seconds after you shut the truck off before you disconnect the battery. It had to do with certain systems writing config info back to their chips.

Thanks again guys for all the work everyone did on this.

The Minx
 
#29 ·
I know I'm digging this up a bit but I'm gonna do this and want to get it right. So from the youtube video the guy puts the paper clip in the top and bottom spot 4from the right. Then with key in and on, watches the lights the key off and pulls out clip and done???? From what it sounds like from some of you gents there is more to it? I read about putting clip in and out 4 times?? Is that with key on or no? another said two wires in and touch 4 times?? So my question is, if I just copy the video will this not work? Sorry for the questions but what I read vs. watched doesn't add up to me... Thanks..
 
#31 ·
Ok thanks a ton...I will give that a shot, you used the same spots? aka 4 open spots then clip in 5th holes? I assume the guy in the video was counting then open spots he needed to leave between the clip and right side.
 
#33 ·
Goss, I didn't have to do the ZPC on my Tundra when I did the lift/level.

But I did on my T4R. I was a little skeptical about doing it with a paper clip. Lots have done it without issue, but all I could think of is touching the wrong point and "poof"....thousands of dollars in damage, and the truck is dead where it sits. So, I took it to a friend who owns a small auto shop. I didn't have to pay, and even with him figuring it out as we went, it took him 15 minutes. He did it with a SnapOn computer (pretty expensive looking machine).

Bottom line, even if you had to pay it would be cheap. Worth every penny in my opinion.

Good luck man!


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#35 ·
Given the position of the OBDII port you would have to be out of it for the paper clip method.

When my buddy did it with the computer we were both outside the vehicle.

I'm not sure if it even matters in terms of the ZPC though.


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#36 ·
I'm somewhat new when it comes to the ZPC and vehicle stability control of the Tundra. What would be some of the reasons/requirements to do the ZPC? I don't have a lift or big tires but I did do the front leveling kit.
 
#37 ·
Mine was loss of power. After I installed my 3 inch coilovers everything felt fine, I really didn't feel any loss of power until I punched it one day on the interstate going around 55 and the truck downshifted and almost felt dead I had never noticed it before and my lift was on for a few months. As soon as I did the paperclip ZPC fix I took it back out for a test drive and immediately felt the power back, I can't believe I was without all the power for so long :D but it feels stock again . Some guys have their VSC go nuts but mine never acted weird just didn't have the HP that I originally had until I did the ZPC. Have done it twice now it is really simple
 
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